tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2657722622334098262024-03-28T20:29:49.909-07:00Proverbs 31 HomesteadHomesteading, Home Keeping, Family, & FaithProverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.comBlogger1402125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-86944718085771553942024-03-19T12:13:00.000-07:002024-03-19T12:13:15.588-07:0011 Tips for Growing Great Onions<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5VtNmLpR8WEHCJ7V6ZH-vh08AdRzKSqXMhwooGSOViI-9f7MN76eV3KYSA_Xp8aGIA_6JZksbh_MK4yXnvlxok3w9iMYZSfJ_ROsebQQDGFNdlLe5wbQ3bMT2F9OtXMEqIaoCCz_ilC1qv5ET7dXkGzEpCaNQx7Emc5udzlER8uGxm66z-OT30JW4_S8/s1500/Growing-Great-Onions.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Growing Great Onions" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5VtNmLpR8WEHCJ7V6ZH-vh08AdRzKSqXMhwooGSOViI-9f7MN76eV3KYSA_Xp8aGIA_6JZksbh_MK4yXnvlxok3w9iMYZSfJ_ROsebQQDGFNdlLe5wbQ3bMT2F9OtXMEqIaoCCz_ilC1qv5ET7dXkGzEpCaNQx7Emc5udzlER8uGxm66z-OT30JW4_S8/w213-h320/Growing-Great-Onions.jpg" title="Onion Growing Tips" width="213" /></a></div><br />There's a certain photo of my garden that, when I post in on social media, always seems to inspire a lot of onion-growing questions. While I've given some onion-growing tips on t<a href="https://www.facebook.com/ProverbsThirtyOneHomestead/" target="_blank">his blog's Facebook page</a>, today I want to expand on those and give you my very best tips for successfully growing your own onions.<p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">1. Select the right type of onion for your area.</span><b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b>This is <i>the </i>most important thing to know about onions and can literally make or break your success. All onions are broken down into three main types, called<u> long-day, day-neutral, </u>and <u>short-day</u>. </p><p><u><i>Long-day onions</i></u> are best for Northern parts of the U.S. (37 - 47 degrees
latitude) and should be planted in early spring (or in the fall, if
allowed to overwinter in the garden and form bulbs in spring); long-day onions begin growing bulbs when days have reached 14 - 16 hours of sunlight. <br /></p><p><i><u>Day-neutral onions</u></i> (sometimes called "intermediate" onions) are best for the central states (32 - 47 degrees latitude).
They begin forming bulbs when there's about 12 - 14 hours of light per day and should be planted in early spring. (The onions in the photo below are Walla Wallas - a day-neutral type.)</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekGH6pv_XkpMC8IxhKuld5P1YZ5RYlg2aC6N95MH4S2mxXm0cZZ6id_0GBHCvO-fdGtf9UFiPnSjnRMylZnys5MAlWqLAJWkFrqEYUwWIL1duIEr-yJLArY3NqVpH48A7Nn6UiXy7P-0JcPn5SaiLXnbVx-6rGYRfBghBaMFdH2tjrw8ptrNJB50QZwE/s1080/Vegetable%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="465" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekGH6pv_XkpMC8IxhKuld5P1YZ5RYlg2aC6N95MH4S2mxXm0cZZ6id_0GBHCvO-fdGtf9UFiPnSjnRMylZnys5MAlWqLAJWkFrqEYUwWIL1duIEr-yJLArY3NqVpH48A7Nn6UiXy7P-0JcPn5SaiLXnbVx-6rGYRfBghBaMFdH2tjrw8ptrNJB50QZwE/w465-h465/Vegetable%20garden.jpg" width="465" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The photo that has everyone asking for onion growing tips.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><i><u>Short-day onions</u></i> grow best in Southern parts of the U.S. (25 - 35 degrees latitude). They start growing bulbs when there's 10 - 12 hours of daylight and are usually planted in fall and allowed to overwinter in the garden, to begin growing bulbs in spring.</p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">2. Choose from seeds, sets, or plants.</span><b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b>If you're new to growing onions, I recommend growing them from plants (bundles of bulbs with green or brown shoots) or sets (dormant bulbs without shoots). That said, this can limit the varieties you grow, so don't discount growing from seed. Just read the seed packet and follow its advice. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">3. Make sure your soil is well draining.</span> Onions will not grow well - and may even rot - in soil that retains a lot of water. <br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">4. Follow the planting advice that comes with your onion seeds, sets, or plants. </span>If needed, do an internet search to get information specific to the variety you're growing. You need to know how deep you should plant and how far apart your onions should be, in addition to what time of year to plant.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">5. Keep your onions well irrigated. </span>Onions that don't have enough water can't grow big and juicy. If you're unsure whether or not you need to water, stick your finger in the soil. If it's dry one inch down, irrigate. Mulching around your onions will reduce the amount of watering needed.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">6. Keep your soil fertile.</span> Because I use <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2024/01/the-basics-of-no-till-gardening.html" target="_blank">no-till methods</a>, which includes laying organic matter on top of the soil to allow it to decompose and add nutrients to the garden, I do not need to fertilize my plants. If you garden differently, you'll want to use a balanced fertilizer (though Phosphorus and potassium are most important for bulb growth) every 2 - 4 weeks; onions are heavy feeders.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">7. Do not push soil up around your onions.</span> Many people tell me they've been taught that if their onion bulbs appear over the soil, they need to cover them up. This isn't true. As onions grow, their shoulders will naturally rise above the soil line; let them be!</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6IIcS8OqeCSKzmbOBxTjMm1kN3C0Z3ZJ_r-c6ZHSROUC9s6CKXZnjM6Nb17bfldrhIgQh8GFbg5aEK5d6WoxH9OE0NWJmVEzB3kM3oq5bNnVucmZtIXFM4DSBa6IUXhOWXy042LizNqb4TesfH7cvgPykBgfem48s-LjPfhVhYYeuUsT5_z6lnfKdv4/s1080/Walla%20Walla%20onion.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1080" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6IIcS8OqeCSKzmbOBxTjMm1kN3C0Z3ZJ_r-c6ZHSROUC9s6CKXZnjM6Nb17bfldrhIgQh8GFbg5aEK5d6WoxH9OE0NWJmVEzB3kM3oq5bNnVucmZtIXFM4DSBa6IUXhOWXy042LizNqb4TesfH7cvgPykBgfem48s-LjPfhVhYYeuUsT5_z6lnfKdv4/s320/Walla%20Walla%20onion.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>As onions grow, they will push themselves up above the soil line.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">8. If your onion bolts, eat it. </span>When an onion develops a thicker middle stem and a flower bulb appears on top of it, it's bolting (i.e. going to seed). Harvest the onion and eat it right away; it won't store well and it won't grow bigger if left in the garden. In fact, if left in place, it may rot. (Bolting is a reaction to stress, such as temperature fluctuations or lack of water, but these stressors may not affect all your onion plants the same way.)<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">9. Understand when to harvest.</span> Some onions taste great at any size (like my Walla Wallas), so it's fine to harvest one as needed. But don't harvest onions for storage until the leaves fall down and turn yellow or brown. <u><i>Stop watering your onions when this happens</i></u> and leave them in the ground for another week or two. Then dig out the onions, brush the soil off them, cut the leaves to about 4 inches long, and cure the bulbs in a single layer in a warm, dry environment (ideally, 7-80 degrees F.) for a couple of weeks. When the necks are fully dry, trim the leaves to 1 - 2 inches and trim the roots close to the bulbs. Store in a dry, cool, dark location, ideally at 40 to 60 degrees F. Stored onions need to breathe, so it's best to place them in a basket (just be careful not to let the basket poke holes in the onions, which will lead to rot), mesh bags, or in a single layer on top of newspaper or cardboard. (If you chose the latter, the onions will last longer if you rotate them periodically.)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi93pcCkG34e1DCumsig7y7R4zpXgYoS2rm7KA-krdanxHlDmIBZpMOuiy21bKb-mA4YG8zXSNFbm24hBPcYKhxGnJDEcG1xVhtB8y8QGl6ZfdskahKtGGp3xJrPrP_zO5AM8ku2mOLKzJsdJarNhlW4swBZ018Ov9Uwh-fmuv0u2_g5o9Lf0W9V_xZOVs/s1350/Onion%20harvest.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="405" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi93pcCkG34e1DCumsig7y7R4zpXgYoS2rm7KA-krdanxHlDmIBZpMOuiy21bKb-mA4YG8zXSNFbm24hBPcYKhxGnJDEcG1xVhtB8y8QGl6ZfdskahKtGGp3xJrPrP_zO5AM8ku2mOLKzJsdJarNhlW4swBZ018Ov9Uwh-fmuv0u2_g5o9Lf0W9V_xZOVs/w324-h405/Onion%20harvest.jpg" width="324" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Part of last year's onion harvest,</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">10. Know that not all onions store well.</span> If you want onions that will keep in a cool location all winter long and well into spring and possibly summer, look for a storage variety, like Patterson, Cortland, or Yellow Globe. About once a month, check your stored onions for soft spots or decay. Remove and eat any onions that are no longer in good condition or they may cause nearby onions to also begin decaying. For onions that aren't storage types, dehydrate, freeze-dry, or freeze to preserve them. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">11. Consider special types of onions. </span>Last year, after <i>many </i>years of wanting to, I added walking onions to my garden. Walking onion types (sometimes called "topset onions") grow not only a bulb in the soil, but also bulbs on top of their leaves. As the bulbs get heavy, the leaves bend down to the soil and the topmost bulbs take root into the ground. Think of them as a perpetual onion; you'll never have to start onions from seed (or buy sets or plants) again.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBs6geqZz_9opbb2RygTOMIa0C_uAJu-_wBcBAsP9vKMlmzczXCv3GZ9wALUwb9r6mrEb9deQlVHkBAeOryggdg0JHE1IhPprZalCCWW0c1cMoerjsYvPQN9SFzcKZx2IlU6h5g12CdM51TL2IFl2h2VW7QyhCfuEwTMKB57h2A-I_c2pKdxRa8hWkOHU/s533/Walking%20Onions.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="502" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBs6geqZz_9opbb2RygTOMIa0C_uAJu-_wBcBAsP9vKMlmzczXCv3GZ9wALUwb9r6mrEb9deQlVHkBAeOryggdg0JHE1IhPprZalCCWW0c1cMoerjsYvPQN9SFzcKZx2IlU6h5g12CdM51TL2IFl2h2VW7QyhCfuEwTMKB57h2A-I_c2pKdxRa8hWkOHU/s320/Walking%20Onions.jpg" width="301" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Egyptian walking onions. Courtesy of <a class="external text" href="http://allthingsplants.com/users/profile/dave/" rel="nofollow">Dave Whitinger</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>To grow scallions (i.e. "green onions") you should select bunching types, which don't grow large bulbs; they are really grown only for their mild green tops. As long as the bulbs remain in the soil, they will reproduce for many years. (Do note that you can simply trim regular bulb onion leaves and use them as scallions, but they may be more strongly-flavored and you should stop harvesting leaves by late spring.)<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovlZo4nJEvw2TlS4QjDpbrAaZuGiw3BWbXNuArz7oVZ7hEb53PkbmalxwasNIpNv987aezsO8al-yzoF2vyDCk42TExMKiDlajGVsLNgI-rXbjqpUQF15HX2K4lwES4afHVU_gEPekmuM-R8JTmXVYHVf-CqRjiZu1bpcG_6Ks-h_Ym_jztKsZxkX5eg/s1197/Scallions.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="798" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovlZo4nJEvw2TlS4QjDpbrAaZuGiw3BWbXNuArz7oVZ7hEb53PkbmalxwasNIpNv987aezsO8al-yzoF2vyDCk42TExMKiDlajGVsLNgI-rXbjqpUQF15HX2K4lwES4afHVU_gEPekmuM-R8JTmXVYHVf-CqRjiZu1bpcG_6Ks-h_Ym_jztKsZxkX5eg/s320/Scallions.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Scallions (i.e. "green onions" or "bunching onions").</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p> <span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2024/01/the-basics-of-no-till-gardening.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="425" data-original-width="283" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0UYiXAdn_LuZ5pMAV2ss6adEMexdIoQ-gVALl17lGMHiB7Sj5Pphs5YNfclU-gusm5vPu_HKJ4sJXmTCdXlFju59P_CrTTfTFMdFxT7e3onWc7hiI6IbZMuLA2KWYek7e436qJ3PkzGCC1l3Wh-kGTdHB1vH_KnRSOiZanVWbwoEDl4VWpjJ6aRxbJk/s320/Basics-of-no-till-gardening.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2024/03/how-to-prevent-cross-pollination-in.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="341" data-original-width="227" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdSOR-svbckVdu-yvD6_7dWGNTgvcBSm5x4OiI-ZAA6s_lKYt9jxW2QDdKH5s1QQMXkJidnXn4gKj9KMGCkYqxIZRLKQkEqIz4PWX459W96G7tSu9lxaMTlJGh82DdOdXPEBObTIrMt_Hh56GbVIW-Df-DqzyzUWgme-k8X3TuPYW-P_eEGhc7B8a1ME/s320/How-to-prevent-cross-polination-in-squash.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/07/growing-vegetables-in-winter-hint-start.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="278" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwGxaU_0suOsRKlHFZj-8J8fbmNGUY4DI8jlOEf6rTQF_QPTIMJbsOwqDcquyvIgymqd4Ybcn5heRa8hr2BxfOp50I72vf57H0w9UKBEC_TtU2fKUzkIfuWwkTfVz-ohwYhuJW4v3IJsh9qau5y05hzIxrtRVNbSPXwpydhBpcbyrZWfV-IVilA9WI628/s320/Growing-Vegetables-in-the-Winter..jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-62048456283161779152024-03-05T11:34:00.000-08:002024-03-05T11:34:18.110-08:00How to Prevent Cross-Pollination in Squash<p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVvQm9mWglKCKbcTGGD9HOuZWAGkzL3YgwV8Xg2AxlHRXiQW5LFUMZ2xr8Dk1fzs02y0acsv5oSnm9RuzLC0AIMdQxF0jK9ZnR23a1nsRaUGd7Fpa9l_KqTBeKrIxzbgqaBtKLycPloizh_WQQbt592jSFX-HmkB-D0pKICB_Y_UGWPNGYuJdhxD-KTDU/s1500/How-to-prevent-cross-polination-in-squash.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVvQm9mWglKCKbcTGGD9HOuZWAGkzL3YgwV8Xg2AxlHRXiQW5LFUMZ2xr8Dk1fzs02y0acsv5oSnm9RuzLC0AIMdQxF0jK9ZnR23a1nsRaUGd7Fpa9l_KqTBeKrIxzbgqaBtKLycPloizh_WQQbt592jSFX-HmkB-D0pKICB_Y_UGWPNGYuJdhxD-KTDU/w227-h342/How-to-prevent-cross-polination-in-squash.jpg" width="227" /></a><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
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information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i></div><p>A few years ago, my mother-in-law's cousin moved into a new house and was delighted to see squash growing in the backyard...That is, until she went to eat it. These squash didn't look like any she'd ever seen before and - more importantly - they didn't taste that great. They were, we realized, the result of cross-pollination - something you probably want to avoid in your garden.</p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">What is Cross-Pollination? </span></p><p>When insects, the wind, or humans take pollen from one variety of plant and spread it to another, a hybrid is created using cross-pollination. The two plants "mate," so to speak, and their "babies" show characteristics from both varieties. However, cross-pollination can <i>only </i>happen between varieties of the same type of plant. Therefore, contrary to a common myth, cucumbers (<i>Cucumis sativus</i>) cannot cross-pollinate with zucchini...but butternut squash (<span class="NA6bn ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc"><i>Cucurbita moschata</i>) </span></span>can definitely cross-pollinate with zucchini (<i>Cucurbita pepo</i>).</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Is Cross-Pollination a Big Deal? </span></p><p>Sometimes playing around with cross-pollination can be fun. Who knows? You might develop a new variety with excellent traits! However, there are two main reasons you may want to <i>prevent </i>cross-pollination: </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicvUfB49aaSefUjjYKZodZpT-hx7OPXcVCOyWjyJISqEjN1NNjF4qf_NKEiRglcl9ovk8LA7we9drU2WHKhqwyrzZNeJBm-7SL4mssMkmbLA0El3_yAwPXv-RRGvUWtcE2ssB8LKLdu51sXZl0wfEKTXCVqIr_FKo16Y1gY0VtEXbPPr8DopFi8O4aMlo/s4000/Bees-on-squash-blossom.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicvUfB49aaSefUjjYKZodZpT-hx7OPXcVCOyWjyJISqEjN1NNjF4qf_NKEiRglcl9ovk8LA7we9drU2WHKhqwyrzZNeJBm-7SL4mssMkmbLA0El3_yAwPXv-RRGvUWtcE2ssB8LKLdu51sXZl0wfEKTXCVqIr_FKo16Y1gY0VtEXbPPr8DopFi8O4aMlo/w268-h476/Bees-on-squash-blossom.jpg" width="268" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Wind and insects spread pollen around your garden, causing cross-pollination.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>1. If you are growing open-pollinated or heirloom varieties* and want to accurately save their seed, or </p><p>2. If you want volunteer plants (i.e. plants that grow from the seeds left behind in the garden by rotten fruit) to produce fruit that's just like the parent plant. </p><p><b><u>A common misconception is that cross-pollination will affect the current year's plants.</u></b> For example, someone once told me that my yellow summer squash and zucchini were planted too close together; the result, this person said, would be weird fruit. However, if yellow summer squash and zucchini cross-pollinate, the parent plants will <i>not </i>be affected. They will continue to produce fruit that's true to the varieties planted. Cross-pollination <i>will</i>, however, affect the parent plant's "babies" (i.e. the seeds in the fruit, which, if planted, will result in a weird cross fruit). </p><p><i><u>Cross-pollination never affects the current year's fruit</u></i>. So if you aren't saving seeds, you don't need to worry about it at all. (In vegetable gardening, there's one exception to this cross-pollination rule: Corn. The parent plants, if cross-pollinated, can grow ears of corn that aren't true to variety.) </p><p>I think there are two reasons people find the concept of cross-pollination confusing. One is that environmental factors - such as irregular irrigation or poor pollination - can create weird-looking fruit that sometimes gets incorrectly blamed on cross-pollination. </p><p>The other, more common, reason is that sometimes volunteer plants pop up in the garden and produce odd fruit. The latter happens because the previous year's squash cross-pollinated and some of the fruit was allowed to rot in the garden. This left cross-pollinated seeds in the soil, which popped up and were allowed to grow. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3N4_oiiBXFTA-7uzZxRbKfqiqIhIg4ElkEVcpi1bAAK3BPMr6NqeQNwaVp3zFIhCIuooaM4NystNZ_WjaiktoYkZBZnFB1LLMuDHncZEhmXX9_3glHwdDCnfx-hS_sRi-1dmXXOZrkSW2FsWa5BxHj4BHMQDcpuXP-NVb4VJH6iqYP3PDak6UusdPM8/s4000/Buttercup%20squash.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3N4_oiiBXFTA-7uzZxRbKfqiqIhIg4ElkEVcpi1bAAK3BPMr6NqeQNwaVp3zFIhCIuooaM4NystNZ_WjaiktoYkZBZnFB1LLMuDHncZEhmXX9_3glHwdDCnfx-hS_sRi-1dmXXOZrkSW2FsWa5BxHj4BHMQDcpuXP-NVb4VJH6iqYP3PDak6UusdPM8/w234-h416/Buttercup%20squash.jpg" width="234" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cross-pollination does not affect the current year's fruit</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>To prevent this type of mishap, I suggest two things: </p><p>1. At the end of the season, remove all fruit from your squash plants and do not compost it or allow it to rot anywhere near your garden. </p><p>2. Mark the exact planting position of your squash seeds with a stick. If any additional seedlings pop up in that area, you'll know they are volunteers that should be disposed of. (Or at least marked as a new hybrid.)</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Separate Lives </span></p><p>But what if you want to save your open-pollinated squash seeds and have them be true to the parent plants? The most commonly quoted solution is to simply plant them further apart. The problem with this is that to truly work, you'd have to plant them at least a half mile away! Very few of us can do that. (Although the <a href="https://extension.sdstate.edu/saving-seed-pumpkins-squash-cucumbers-melons-and-gourds " target="_blank">South Dakota State Extension Office website notes</a>, "The presence of barriers such as large buildings, a thick stand of trees, or a hill can inhibit pollinator movement and allow for shorter isolation distances." Emphasis on <i>can</i>.)</p><p>However, there are workarounds. You could, for example, cage entire plants and place <a href="https://amzn.to/3wG8nJY" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">row cover fabric</a> over them - or you could <a href="https://amzn.to/3wG8sxg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">secure bags</a> over the squash flowers. In both cases, to get fruit, you'd need to hand pollinate: Go out early in the morning and, with an artist's paintbrush or a Q-tip, collect pollen from <a href="https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/squash/female-male-squash-blossoms.htm" target="_blank">a male flower's stamen</a> (the penis-like growth in the center of the flower). <a href="https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/squash/female-male-squash-blossoms.htm" target="_blank">Find a female flower</a>, which will have a mini fruit growing just below the flower petals, and brush the pollen onto its stigma (the female version of the stamen, found in the center of the flower). For best results, the female flower should be pollinated within four hours of opening in the morning. Re-bag the flowers after pollinating. Bags or other covers can be removed from female flowers once you see that fruit is starting to grow. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjl0tBjsG2zolOft8f7oC2E1kctN2K63IKDZUFuA3VCbFlqek1zeuQkPlUKsXTvf3PnZLXBFQHRG12vUdoTiwKW54YGrZt0MMgs9Eq2TZqw4rcKiFA27o_y5ymawCtFVHId_oXOggUtgxGXFFnaUlTaYb9yatrbTY25ZoyUKcJHE_0hsPz_OQWOyXrroo/s4000/summer%20squash.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjl0tBjsG2zolOft8f7oC2E1kctN2K63IKDZUFuA3VCbFlqek1zeuQkPlUKsXTvf3PnZLXBFQHRG12vUdoTiwKW54YGrZt0MMgs9Eq2TZqw4rcKiFA27o_y5ymawCtFVHId_oXOggUtgxGXFFnaUlTaYb9yatrbTY25ZoyUKcJHE_0hsPz_OQWOyXrroo/w252-h448/summer%20squash.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Both summer squash and winter squash are affected by cross-pollination.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>As you can imagine, bagging and hand-pollinating all the flowers on a squash plant can be time-consuming. Therefore, consider choosing just a few male and female flowers to hand-pollinate. Bag those, and once the fruit starts growing, gently and loosely tie a string on the the female flower stems so you can later identify the fruit that was hand-pollinated. Save seed only from that fruit. </p><p>You can also <i>almost </i>eliminate the risk of cross-pollination by separating cultivars. There are three main cultivars in the edible squash family: </p><p><i>Cucurbita pepo (C. pepo):</i> such as pattypan, straightneck, New England sugar pie pumpkin, acorn, delicata, spaghetti, and zucchini squash </p><p><i>Cucurbita moschata (C. moschata):</i> such as butternut, crookneck, Tromboncino, and Long Island Cheese pumpkin </p><p><i>Cucurbita maxima (C. maxima):</i> such as buttercup, Hubbard, sweet meat, Red Kuri, and Cinderella pumpkin. </p><p>If you grow one plant from each cultivar, it won't generally matter if they grow close together. <i>However</i>, this method is not 100% effective, so if saving pure seed is important to you, I recommend bagging and hand-pollinating, instead. </p><p> </p><p>* <i>"Open-pollinated" means the plant will produce "babies" that will be true to the parent plant. "Heirloom" means an older variety of open-pollinated plant. These are in contrast to "hybrid" (or "F1") plants, which will not produce "babies" that are true to the parent plant.</i><br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1X5JsFE5rrbLoUQTtg9HEqphfl93f8JxyA825ZsLtiSt0Cb1TufyTqIUB0FjcYEHHsRXkj5QbJEGaKPCNllIGUW-IUfHsnlhzfGW092b_n707zsBHKmhWTB_bzd9ZmWFhreJYHX5r82vlzlIEeEFKotQ430hjZ6TTwzi679GyZ8zXE2nw0kgESH8uS0/s4000/Acorn%20Squash%20Seeds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1X5JsFE5rrbLoUQTtg9HEqphfl93f8JxyA825ZsLtiSt0Cb1TufyTqIUB0FjcYEHHsRXkj5QbJEGaKPCNllIGUW-IUfHsnlhzfGW092b_n707zsBHKmhWTB_bzd9ZmWFhreJYHX5r82vlzlIEeEFKotQ430hjZ6TTwzi679GyZ8zXE2nw0kgESH8uS0/w235-h418/Acorn%20Squash%20Seeds.jpg" width="235" /></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Understanding cross-pollination is vital when</i> <i>you want to save your own seed.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p> RELATED ARTICLES: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2021/10/how-to-save-tomato-seeds-and-cucumber.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="286" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb3SiaCasdjz0KVutpsTl_ykqX24RTJzxg5AfQ_JDTdxEYv9qRvSUTIJB-qJjXG5ETGP4gcmSVd8oMnlormze35qdwRQNcyXnruoJZSe0XMetu1IPgY5GGjFPwIgkL97Pgl-7ZUucybZwV22HzDg8GXRVoEN_sjS1gSlEy3TpLZ2VlqhVTHO1W0QzT4Do/s320/How-to-Save-Tomato-Seeds.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/06/organic-pest-control-what-really-works.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQfSwrNl2IEgUkBLZqLVj_v_rv3YUXiKIaEiMHYJz1cN4mRXwPY9KMKU1OW4_fLvngaEaRJsm0VPCbgzmz7yM5jvr_JMEUGKd5wEeauy-gYgGIR8iFR5gZ9VtEVgUKy0wAiiqPqx-KOSWyVfnBH9GXljls-byKyt6LhFzTrmF9gM05zf2TvVsg9kxvJrk/s320/Organic%20Pest%20Control.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/12/tips-for-planning-vegetable-garden.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="461" data-original-width="307" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSMBj7HuLEqGkt2ZBgbfRQzWx2ufuOCNu4yj10m_NRQkLrLcxCX7il9O_u_T0lKGi1KRslZyJSXil9M8fzbswGwPUHSAbSxqCeqNWByKcwRNtoPTTBymVmmDAcTRoHlQJOaRV1atWi5zHdbTVICLHh2EqJKKCisUqWi8w1twVvGE2BfCUlitm9JFWmOlo/s320/Tips-for-planning-a-vegetable-garden.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-14008845288390007842024-02-28T12:23:00.000-08:002024-02-28T12:23:33.401-08:00February on the Homestead<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHL4o7L_xrC9Bvg7dlC50qfzEk1_oHSw6i0M0ab70hXGA3WKZM7vSHExt4Qd04MLrq6-onPn134wmnU7lCGvu_mxW35mJ1KnkDgIn6zTN19IXCUrdy1DktFlbCW8FIpWar1UuAGl5dZm1OybMscdud807cExLvM9qG-Sx91W_4XNb-H8qUPP6VYL2V6ps/s960/Rooster-dinner.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="584" height="453" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHL4o7L_xrC9Bvg7dlC50qfzEk1_oHSw6i0M0ab70hXGA3WKZM7vSHExt4Qd04MLrq6-onPn134wmnU7lCGvu_mxW35mJ1KnkDgIn6zTN19IXCUrdy1DktFlbCW8FIpWar1UuAGl5dZm1OybMscdud807cExLvM9qG-Sx91W_4XNb-H8qUPP6VYL2V6ps/w276-h453/Rooster-dinner.jpg" width="276" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Dinner of homegrown food and homemade bread</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />February is an exciting month on our homestead. Not only is the weather unpredictable - false spring one moment, hail or snow the next - but it's a time for prep work.<p></p><p>For example, I finished butchering our excess roosters. (You can read about why and how I butchered them <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2024/01/january-on-homestead.html" target="_blank">here</a>.) This time, things went much more easily. (Funny how some practice helps that happen!) I was pleased with the weights I saw; I had several roosters who were 5 lbs. dressed. Most were in the 4-4.5 lb. weight range. The littlest was 3.5 lbs. Bear in mind that they were not a meat breed; they were farmyard mutts from dual-purpose or layer chickens. We've already eaten a couple, and they are absolutely delicious. So much tastier than store bought, of course - they just don't have as much breast meat as commercial Cornish Cross chickens do.</p><p>So...I was down to a single rooster, which I chose because of his good looks, his friendly manner, and his eagerness to care for the hens. He spent two blissful days in rooster nirvana...and then I found him dead in the hen house. He appeared to have died in his sleep, poor guy. (That was a first.) So now I'm asking around with locals to see if I can find a rooster someone doesn't want. <i>Sigh.</i></p><p><i></i></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj6k7l_nKkmYCEoV0phQ9YrJdpPhpyvcmlChQIVLHtaz7l36dHU-jgL3xJakhy3WZeFBKYJvknzekxBOCtulSRsPq7QfMJjvUt3yy-yLsm7w52Cc_sishlVygVEKouiATgyb3OZ8bxEBlZVSs-qtcZstAschSWrIWDgJy9SDKvjtpnXqJSEErs0qJAiCE/s1695/roosters-in-freezer.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1695" data-original-width="1080" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj6k7l_nKkmYCEoV0phQ9YrJdpPhpyvcmlChQIVLHtaz7l36dHU-jgL3xJakhy3WZeFBKYJvknzekxBOCtulSRsPq7QfMJjvUt3yy-yLsm7w52Cc_sishlVygVEKouiATgyb3OZ8bxEBlZVSs-qtcZstAschSWrIWDgJy9SDKvjtpnXqJSEErs0qJAiCE/w292-h458/roosters-in-freezer.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I butchered a total of 10 roosters. Here's half.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><i><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizLJi6ucteQnNQzso8BBfUCZzhwzcCZcPI-bt3DjZglKB2FW4UcQ6QuYSYs_PDXuLClR3Jov-2HMS-Vh_yH736MGayJyP-811tCmB0YzzaRS32JUgfsVphBqz_igPMTJFTW4GL7cSmV147mnD55BOchAn8qioKu0ojGNMy_diLxAGsVDiy8aPzxB4WTkE/s1440/Rooster.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" height="423" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizLJi6ucteQnNQzso8BBfUCZzhwzcCZcPI-bt3DjZglKB2FW4UcQ6QuYSYs_PDXuLClR3Jov-2HMS-Vh_yH736MGayJyP-811tCmB0YzzaRS32JUgfsVphBqz_igPMTJFTW4GL7cSmV147mnD55BOchAn8qioKu0ojGNMy_diLxAGsVDiy8aPzxB4WTkE/w317-h423/Rooster.jpg" width="317" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The not-so-lucky rooster who remained.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table> </i><p></p><p>This made me think about our dear Fido - a meat mutt rabbit buck who has given us lots of wonderful babies. He's a gentle soul, and so handsome...and he's just not quite been himself since <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/02/winter-on-homestead.html" target="_blank">his mate Fiona died</a>. I suddenly realized he's probably pretty old. We don't know his exact age, but we figure he's at least 6 years old. So I decided it was time to breed him in hopes of setting aside at least one of his offspring to keep his line going on our homestead. As usual, Fido was eager to comply, and so was Clydine.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU3IFNAJ9uPyAGlhIT65JG1xRBzFit4gU5Z5wcSeMlv7OCTBSAFMUmEYldVqhL6m1xo8kba9Cgr5mzOBiQYzDD7N-RnDCDuQK3TXejqZi0VkYXj5-W2K7XMnpvdXehSNsjMn1VWGFyAjI2QzQvVvgZJXJ8vfNiai5qdOv9ucTkyyBrAOL6ZR97U6gQQwk/s320/Fido%20and%20Clyde.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="319" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU3IFNAJ9uPyAGlhIT65JG1xRBzFit4gU5Z5wcSeMlv7OCTBSAFMUmEYldVqhL6m1xo8kba9Cgr5mzOBiQYzDD7N-RnDCDuQK3TXejqZi0VkYXj5-W2K7XMnpvdXehSNsjMn1VWGFyAjI2QzQvVvgZJXJ8vfNiai5qdOv9ucTkyyBrAOL6ZR97U6gQQwk/w363-h364/Fido%20and%20Clyde.jpg" width="363" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fido and Clydine, over a year ago</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>But the real sign that winter is nearing it's end is that I've been sowing seeds. I started <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/01/how-to-winter-sow-vegetables-and.html" target="_blank">my winter sowing</a> early this month, sowing <span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">Bull's Blood beets, Umpqua
broccoli, Franklin Brussels sprouts, Farao Cabbage (a new variety for
me, said to stand a long time in the garden without splitting), Morris
Heading collards, Amazing cauliflower, wild Russian kale, Winter Density
lettuce, Javalin parsnips, Purple Top turnips, Legend tomatoes, plus a few flowers:
zinnia, marigold, cosmos, and Shirley double poppies. Already, all the seeds have germinated.</span></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YLVJJrJo2of_wF7ZA4VwAMRKdJpCQNzJPSF_dT3x6YH88GQdJy23CXdf2V6azOaaZTC8eB2MntdXtlrsgr0rD2nPcibPPLSXstlpwfsA730tHo6hR_05ly1NNV30-Ae6Ggl8Az11ez-hn4xuPis3-c5iFDmfhrWmemr24svq7CZTeU_Zy83ybYxsbcw/s1374/winter-sowing.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1374" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YLVJJrJo2of_wF7ZA4VwAMRKdJpCQNzJPSF_dT3x6YH88GQdJy23CXdf2V6azOaaZTC8eB2MntdXtlrsgr0rD2nPcibPPLSXstlpwfsA730tHo6hR_05ly1NNV30-Ae6Ggl8Az11ez-hn4xuPis3-c5iFDmfhrWmemr24svq7CZTeU_Zy83ybYxsbcw/s320/winter-sowing.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Winter sown seeds</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"> </span><p></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">I also started some warm-season crops indoors: Dark Star tomatoes (which did very well for me last year), plus two new-to-me tomato varieties: Koralik and Oregon Spring. I also sowed Golden Star bell peppers, which were highly productive in my unheated greenhouse last year, as well as new-to-me Early Jalapeno and Pathfinder Serrano peppers. I'm also trying my hand at onions from seed. (Early in my homesteading journey, I tried unsuccessfully to grow onions from seed. Thereafter, I only bought sets.) I started a few Walla Walla and Patterson storage onions.</span></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5NVTdpm5qtyiYv_hUZ6dtLsvpo5CUWSbPc2zw7PIZnfgnWZVriAD5jzCIgT8KS2YbeEE7YOH3BV1HW79MhBWD7fm-BJ4XV4dk4sW1gbsemNs3zhZljptArHQoYwip0mSHojDQMZ-ftcUnNuUPjW26ceHGMq9yrV15U9V3-BNvmOqZSPalRvh3-UR_i7E/s1270/Indoor-sowing.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1270" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5NVTdpm5qtyiYv_hUZ6dtLsvpo5CUWSbPc2zw7PIZnfgnWZVriAD5jzCIgT8KS2YbeEE7YOH3BV1HW79MhBWD7fm-BJ4XV4dk4sW1gbsemNs3zhZljptArHQoYwip0mSHojDQMZ-ftcUnNuUPjW26ceHGMq9yrV15U9V3-BNvmOqZSPalRvh3-UR_i7E/s320/Indoor-sowing.jpg" width="272" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Indoor sown seeds</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><br /></span><p></p><p> The winter garden is almost done, but for now, I still have a few things I can harvest fresh. The Brussels sprouts are looking brown on the outside, but if I peel back the first layer of leaves (like you would a cabbage), they are beautiful and tasty. I harvested the tippy tops of the Brussels (the part that looks like a small - but not mini - cabbage) a few days ago. I also harvested the cabbages in the garden, which were mostly secondary growths that appeared after harvesting the main heads. Most of these were a little bigger than a baseball.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF8TxmS6tMhYekUJtsp-_qwzkRql0Xa0zsM0isuJPIH_13YBWUdhDGW0aBtlAaQiXoGaVTQm9OEPKY9B_nP2bpcMc4dE68mpn9Wf2lXk6xIB11nteyO5pQ7yRc3U53jHUJr7wUB-O9CT0d2nZkZAytnURinBOWBBcnAGllWi-l9ZkOS_cW6PjVrSBR37k/s1272/February-Garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1272" data-original-width="843" height="451" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF8TxmS6tMhYekUJtsp-_qwzkRql0Xa0zsM0isuJPIH_13YBWUdhDGW0aBtlAaQiXoGaVTQm9OEPKY9B_nP2bpcMc4dE68mpn9Wf2lXk6xIB11nteyO5pQ7yRc3U53jHUJr7wUB-O9CT0d2nZkZAytnURinBOWBBcnAGllWi-l9ZkOS_cW6PjVrSBR37k/w299-h451/February-Garden.jpg" width="299" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The February garden</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">The carrots I overwintered have few leaves, but the roots are absolutely delicious! I have a few small beets, which I'll give a little more time to grow before I harvest them. There are some turnips, too. The exposed roots may not look pretty, but I'll peel them and they'll be at their peak of good flavor.</div></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">My remaining kale and collards have gone to flower, which makes them bitter (though still edible). I'll let the bees enjoy the flowers for now, but will soon pull the plants and feed them to the chickens.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46lkxfBej0utboMLsZwarT9j8J6GWwMh27kAj6CEvvR1tsXkmeYSA4VzhK7eS_tcwVhFP4ZME9GmY26Ardim9I-Z98Glvf1hgXU5XkFD5yyoFGnJZN7n4mCtT1dEj8nmxRNkykMGAOb7iol1BqmYMZt26q4TLEAy4v8_r25oyVFOLVEmsonU2wFnbrug/s2048/Turnip.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46lkxfBej0utboMLsZwarT9j8J6GWwMh27kAj6CEvvR1tsXkmeYSA4VzhK7eS_tcwVhFP4ZME9GmY26Ardim9I-Z98Glvf1hgXU5XkFD5yyoFGnJZN7n4mCtT1dEj8nmxRNkykMGAOb7iol1BqmYMZt26q4TLEAy4v8_r25oyVFOLVEmsonU2wFnbrug/s320/Turnip.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Overwintered turnips</i>.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihtGEQTjuXiFBs-TVFiz1YXO44ZaOF2MHyvnEkRWglCujd6_8XDzotFNhVTpRrbGEezq3IZZk_75pbIfBQUGbUPDectqlTZcKkodTZ_uzqg5L8WprBNEEDDgg60Nkwq2bT-d8-PIOKCPfixc8NbLiGv0pKsvcmjr5EkPguyX_PVbN5laonXHGq1uFNm2s/s2048/Carrots.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1983" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihtGEQTjuXiFBs-TVFiz1YXO44ZaOF2MHyvnEkRWglCujd6_8XDzotFNhVTpRrbGEezq3IZZk_75pbIfBQUGbUPDectqlTZcKkodTZ_uzqg5L8WprBNEEDDgg60Nkwq2bT-d8-PIOKCPfixc8NbLiGv0pKsvcmjr5EkPguyX_PVbN5laonXHGq1uFNm2s/s320/Carrots.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Overwintered carrots</i>.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rKCCjSl84SSXF2nIawvWUcm4PSE5kbQ3zbeDeGRL6Pi0XcA7b3XZEBYSREwX1IwNSNtnPtGnilsd7e0572PeWY2pal7Ar5RSULsL-Rkyut8AIfHjj4DCbHoWKoCqmyRPFhR3HRce7Rqk424R3ftqMoxJuvqKBmVCUMt6K9NxieFyxsyPHJMR89fvLUY/s1310/Cabbage.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1310" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rKCCjSl84SSXF2nIawvWUcm4PSE5kbQ3zbeDeGRL6Pi0XcA7b3XZEBYSREwX1IwNSNtnPtGnilsd7e0572PeWY2pal7Ar5RSULsL-Rkyut8AIfHjj4DCbHoWKoCqmyRPFhR3HRce7Rqk424R3ftqMoxJuvqKBmVCUMt6K9NxieFyxsyPHJMR89fvLUY/s320/Cabbage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cabbage and Brussels sprout tops</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_mZBE74eQ9d78aD1iYz4v2ywCKZxoLYdZmi5F34NkDPwr9JlFNF4R0lOQkKjdyNepQ5y1cg4PEleXSMoxBfPR2WubHrQDSpehkfPzDdYjRwxAsX_3AWEZbisVUYAkwiHXzjMyMHVM_36BxdL9QDGYXgZGnfQp3lQ4gheHKSYdZ3lY1ZBg_CwdhleBr4/s2048/Brussels.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_mZBE74eQ9d78aD1iYz4v2ywCKZxoLYdZmi5F34NkDPwr9JlFNF4R0lOQkKjdyNepQ5y1cg4PEleXSMoxBfPR2WubHrQDSpehkfPzDdYjRwxAsX_3AWEZbisVUYAkwiHXzjMyMHVM_36BxdL9QDGYXgZGnfQp3lQ4gheHKSYdZ3lY1ZBg_CwdhleBr4/s320/Brussels.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Brussels sprouts</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><p><span><span style="font-size: large;">February Produce Totals:</span></span></p><b>At
this time, we're mostly eating produce that I preserved last year. Even
so, we do eat fresh food from the garden during
the cold months, as listed below. To learn more about how and why I am keeping these totals, <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2024/01/january-on-homestead.html" target="_blank">click here</a>.</b></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><b><br /></b></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><i>Serrano and Jalapeno Peppers</i> (from the unheated greenhouse): 1.64 lbs</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">------------> $2.59 conventional (no organic option; our Walmart doesn't sell serranos, so I used the price for jalapenos only) <br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><p><i>Brussels sprouts:</i> 10 lbs. 1 oz.<br /></p>------------> $40.25 organic, $28.98 conventional</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><p><i>Brussels sprouts tops:</i> 1 lb. 2.5 oz.<br /></p>------------> $1.88 organic, $.98 conventional (using cabbage prices, since Walmart doesn't sell Brussels sprouts tops)<br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><p><i>Cabbage:</i> 3 lbs.<br /></p>------------> $4.56 organic, $2.46 conventional </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><p><i>Carrots:</i> 1 lb. 4 oz.<br /></p>------------> $1.19 organic, $0.85 conventional <br /></div></div><p></p><p><b>Saved in February:</b></p><p>$50.47 if purchased organic or $35.86 if purchased conventional. </p><p><b>Saved in 2024 so far:</b></p><p>$106.02 if buying organic and $86.73 </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwqgMvkV9kLXYUo0mLUretSE-6fXbJT_KhNFzEB7Ko4cf2igtRrpThwZGFSsyuXxIunmN9cx9dGm5ErNU_ChCVUjYzygsbZGBS9diqjiakEWfy8oGgM0HELmH_elyLYZ8idbj4GiNL_2yW4vBdsUkt6D4Nb6r85fTExT2gbzE6KfTHVc4TTjDsa166nI/s1280/chicken%20feet.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwqgMvkV9kLXYUo0mLUretSE-6fXbJT_KhNFzEB7Ko4cf2igtRrpThwZGFSsyuXxIunmN9cx9dGm5ErNU_ChCVUjYzygsbZGBS9diqjiakEWfy8oGgM0HELmH_elyLYZ8idbj4GiNL_2yW4vBdsUkt6D4Nb6r85fTExT2gbzE6KfTHVc4TTjDsa166nI/s320/chicken%20feet.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I learned to peel chicken feet this month</i>!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p></p><p> <br /></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-11415266397577123842024-02-20T18:46:00.000-08:002024-02-20T18:46:27.879-08:00GMOs and Purple Tomatoes<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i></p><p>I used to always say (and in fact, I wrote this in my most recent <i>Self-Reliance Magazine</i> article) that there were no GMO (bioengineered) seeds being sold to consumers - that only commercial farmers have access to them. Well, about a week ago, I discovered that has changed. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghopotv81lM8ysIcNdD_th4JXdvr2SmhpM4lBKJVm1EPDEB3Qxf4zGN8jBpW8qLhEIXj_nDuukwuXjZkJkOK35x32gBTJaxfpS29rwWFEJMBK0hiilDQbD_V4HJ3Lv9Z_lJ1sw_Dxl9DZGoR-_UdPK76-G73ltr1JrUwdAjbXjnjOub-U0oeRbbn4DJAk/s1589/Purple%20Tomato.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="727" data-original-width="1589" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghopotv81lM8ysIcNdD_th4JXdvr2SmhpM4lBKJVm1EPDEB3Qxf4zGN8jBpW8qLhEIXj_nDuukwuXjZkJkOK35x32gBTJaxfpS29rwWFEJMBK0hiilDQbD_V4HJ3Lv9Z_lJ1sw_Dxl9DZGoR-_UdPK76-G73ltr1JrUwdAjbXjnjOub-U0oeRbbn4DJAk/w614-h280/Purple%20Tomato.JPG" width="614" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The first GMO (bioengineered) seed sold to consumers, via Norfolk Healthy Produce.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Norfolk Plant Sciences apparently spent 20 years trying to insert the DNA of a dark purple snapdragon flower into a garden tomato they dubbed "The Purple Tomato." Now anyone can pay $20 for 10 seeds for a deep purple tomato that is touted as being high in anthocyanin, a type of antioxidant found naturally in eggplants and blueberries. Basically, Norfolk wanted to make a cool-looking tomato so "<a href="https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2024/02/06/1228868005/purple-tomato-gmo-gardeners" target="_blank">Americans [would] change their perceptions of GMO foods</a>." <a href="https://www.pewresearch.org/short-reads/2020/03/18/about-half-of-u-s-adults-are-wary-of-health-effects-of-genetically-modified-foods-but-many-also-see-advantages/" target="_blank">Polls show</a> most people agree bioengineered food is a bad idea, but Norfolk is striving to change that.</p><p>While inserting a flower's genes into a tomato may not exactly seem evil, bioengineering and gene editing don't stop there. Microorganism, insect, and even mammalian genes are being used - something that would never happen without human intervention. Mankind does not have a great history of messing with nature; there always are unintended consequences that we don't discover until later. (One has already popped up: Bioengineered<a href="https://www.nbcnews.com/business/economy/superweeds-sprout-farmland-controversy-over-gmos-n214996" target="_blank"> crops creating weeds that are resistant to herbicides</a>.)<br /></p><p>My biggest concern, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Proverbs-31-Woman/190692480973676?ref=ts&fref=ts" target="_blank">a</a><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Proverbs-31-Woman/190692480973676?ref=ts&fref=ts" target="_blank">s I stated on Facebook</a>, is that we may quickly lose our access to pure seeds. We already know <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/06/us/genetically-altered-crop-in-oregon-no-surprise.html" target="_blank">commercial bioengineered crops are cross-pollinating with non-GMO plants</a> all over the <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjkjdCOtbuEAxUrHzQIHTu7AAAQFnoECBgQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.agry.purdue.edu%2Fext%2Fcorn%2Fnews%2Farticles.00%2Fgmo_issues-000307.html&usg=AOvVaw0hj-oLXVMiH4sBwow_pj3Z&opi=89978449" target="_blank">United States</a>. Now imagine bioengineered plants in home gardens. The risk of cross-pollination and GMO contamination is much, much higher.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgksK92eHrsE_lMejVIGAtrQG3CxjQsjgCHw5YfEA_v4Hc1w-98Ew7yB7ygm6USX6uGhVwS_WXaCIsx7xXXuh0iHL_RxgPR_JjeiDyD_84T2cbBgxR8wfQHcBQxywrxrnLBs8X1TjalXdFTZsT_G-JBBrX8PjMvbBYJ_BRW1D5Jb8UMPifZ24zG4aIyJmM/s514/Baker%20Creek%20Catalog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="514" data-original-width="398" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgksK92eHrsE_lMejVIGAtrQG3CxjQsjgCHw5YfEA_v4Hc1w-98Ew7yB7ygm6USX6uGhVwS_WXaCIsx7xXXuh0iHL_RxgPR_JjeiDyD_84T2cbBgxR8wfQHcBQxywrxrnLBs8X1TjalXdFTZsT_G-JBBrX8PjMvbBYJ_BRW1D5Jb8UMPifZ24zG4aIyJmM/w304-h392/Baker%20Creek%20Catalog.jpg" width="304" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Baker Creek's 2024 catalog.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>Then yesterday, Baker Creek Seeds, a business whose success can largely be attributed to their styling themselves as <i>the </i>source for non-GMO, heirloom seeds, made a terrible announcement. The purple tomato they featured on their 2024 catalog cover, the purple tomato they were pushing heavily in their marketing, the tomato they called "Purple Galaxy," was being pulled from sale.<br /></p><p>Apparently, Norfolk caught wind of Purple Galaxy and contacted Baker Creek to say something along the lines of: That looks a lot like our Purple Tomato. We think you're violating our patent.</p><p>Baker Creek, in their announcement about this matter (which you can read in full at the bottom of this post), told a long story about how they found Purple Galaxy through a European plant breeder known for collecting rare tomato seeds. Apparently, this person lives in a country where bioengineering is banned and it took years for him to achieve a true purple tomato. When he was done, Baker Creek sent samples of the tomato to a European lab to be tested. Purple Galaxy "did not contain the two genetic markers" they used to test for GMO contamination, Baker Creek says.<br /></p><p>Baker Creek further states that even after Purple Galaxy was offered in their 2024 catalog, they continued to run tests (which is interesting in and of itself) - and some of these tests were "inconclusive." After Norfolk contacted Baker Creek, they did <i>additional </i>testing, which "did not conclusively establish that the Purple Galaxy is truly free of any genetically-modified material."</p><p>While I applaud Baker Creek for their transparency, there are still a lot of unanswered questions here. Foremost in my mind is this: How can testing for GMO contamination be "inconclusive?" In fact, I asked Baker Creek this question; they haven't yet answered. (To be fair, they are probably inundated with questions right now.) If, indeed, Purple Galaxy <i>is</i> bioengineered or is GMO contaminated, how did that happen? How could it possibly have happened accidentally in a country where bioengineered food is banned? Was Baker Creek - the most famous non-GMO seed supplier - targeted and duped on purpose?<br /></p><p>And the hardest question of all: If Baker Creek, who bothered to test their seed to check for GMO contamination, got duped, have other seed companies, not known for running such tests, been duped, too? </p><p>How bad <i>is </i>GMO contamination already?</p><p>If you are as concerned about this as I am, your first thought may be: "Time to save <i>all </i>my own seeds." But, friends, it isn't that simple. For example, corn is typically thought safe from cross-pollination if it is 250 feet away from other varieties of corn, but there are cases where GMO contamination has been found in corn grown <a href="https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/agf-153" target="_blank">that far away or further</a>. To be really, truly, sure there's no unwanted cross-pollination from wind, insects, or other pollinators, you have to cover each plant with fabric that wind, insects, and animals can't penetrate, and then hand pollinate. </p><p>That said, I do encourage you to save your own seed as much as possible, and to help you do so, I recommend the book <i><a href="https://amzn.to/48j44S8" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Seed to Seed</a></i> by Suzanne Ashworth. Here, you'll learn techniques for saving pure seed, plus details on correctly harvesting seed from every type of vegetable.<br /></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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<ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca<P><span class=" dir="auto" lang="en" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;" x13faqbe="" x193iq5w="" x1943h6x="" x1cpjm7i="" x1fgarty="" x1gmr53x="" x1lliihq="" x1s928wv="" x1vvkbs="" x1xmvt09="" x3x7a5m="" x6prxxf="" xeuugli="" xhkezso="" xo1l8bm="" xudqn12="" xvq8zen="" xzsf02u=""></ins></p><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGWY_ClclAD9epvja2Im7oJFn4L1gwDoc8OennaYAUXB9Y3-ZPTBQsr_BgyQFUaPgdg_wKhcla5Ok42QVKfUR7GTA0BbLOC13W0d0r_PzdgEEnixC_5r4IvApMMkoiQhz0dNkFt4evb0yAD7PzwBkbL8-fxAX2bBPpSOsLrtRK8lcItghiENsdSYNGBuc/s792/1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="792" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGWY_ClclAD9epvja2Im7oJFn4L1gwDoc8OennaYAUXB9Y3-ZPTBQsr_BgyQFUaPgdg_wKhcla5Ok42QVKfUR7GTA0BbLOC13W0d0r_PzdgEEnixC_5r4IvApMMkoiQhz0dNkFt4evb0yAD7PzwBkbL8-fxAX2bBPpSOsLrtRK8lcItghiENsdSYNGBuc/w412-h351/1.JPG" width="412" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipsm4dH0TN0rEY5Yaq0VA_e6Jw7oqNvgN6MLGJdTeePOExvXxKiyJ0STe0StRNMeC243QkYZvyrCdY02ZSB2k74HKMF0HAltWnDuoAxlRB6qwLBE7b_6zOAqglREPeg3B5aH714B59PKD-8ysO5nBVYFtycUQeqCvoCaEwsFU2D0pqLKrzOkH7hC-uwMs/s793/2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="793" height="339" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipsm4dH0TN0rEY5Yaq0VA_e6Jw7oqNvgN6MLGJdTeePOExvXxKiyJ0STe0StRNMeC243QkYZvyrCdY02ZSB2k74HKMF0HAltWnDuoAxlRB6qwLBE7b_6zOAqglREPeg3B5aH714B59PKD-8ysO5nBVYFtycUQeqCvoCaEwsFU2D0pqLKrzOkH7hC-uwMs/w417-h339/2.JPG" width="417" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhyTRycA4ZAO6KKr9KcuOiZrQkj-KzBbSdJ_mRYgq7w_xgcli7U_io2QH0cJ0YDGBzmPPGO7agT_JCDD6e8xgBlmgUm0wUMjqQo9_nuStRtrxHsVOYMHPE1mauzubClGUUzYNV_3748uID8hJZ3VAllKIQ9xrgXAtgYpVyLJAKe_kMysyLeVhZM4if3c/s785/3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="644" data-original-width="785" height="341" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhyTRycA4ZAO6KKr9KcuOiZrQkj-KzBbSdJ_mRYgq7w_xgcli7U_io2QH0cJ0YDGBzmPPGO7agT_JCDD6e8xgBlmgUm0wUMjqQo9_nuStRtrxHsVOYMHPE1mauzubClGUUzYNV_3748uID8hJZ3VAllKIQ9xrgXAtgYpVyLJAKe_kMysyLeVhZM4if3c/w415-h341/3.JPG" width="415" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg40Q3_4zYXmJFc1lJ6Aqgt-8lKKsOFQl2dTj4_Yp0gHHtw7i_7xp4jzC0uqARcGlnCPrYKfF3aiG2nBJvV_YXmuQ-71zglJ2Rx2gQD-uNUmb88uw52Z9Uv0CaNy3KGvsWQjFm7V1AlwzQ-gvS91geJkVQCThkvgw16w80e8m1oj979g0ddn6s5_esWbK4/s783/4.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="783" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg40Q3_4zYXmJFc1lJ6Aqgt-8lKKsOFQl2dTj4_Yp0gHHtw7i_7xp4jzC0uqARcGlnCPrYKfF3aiG2nBJvV_YXmuQ-71zglJ2Rx2gQD-uNUmb88uw52Z9Uv0CaNy3KGvsWQjFm7V1AlwzQ-gvS91geJkVQCThkvgw16w80e8m1oj979g0ddn6s5_esWbK4/w415-h332/4.JPG" width="415" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4PnYjRzd2YGcdh7ulkfPHBZ5xwOwENc7OOlX3E_CADF-yGiuKgTu-oWLmVCxSJcrOvClho9wO0nJuXdZdLmzaohCdJcQuwzEVCMcLsYMd0c2FHgpMQ9Qgwf5y1NCEYxzRPXk5wEycW3fd9rUafYQehMMdCKfgkOhtL6TrlSfIRu0yCz7ttnwrOidbU0/s778/5.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="778" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4PnYjRzd2YGcdh7ulkfPHBZ5xwOwENc7OOlX3E_CADF-yGiuKgTu-oWLmVCxSJcrOvClho9wO0nJuXdZdLmzaohCdJcQuwzEVCMcLsYMd0c2FHgpMQ9Qgwf5y1NCEYxzRPXk5wEycW3fd9rUafYQehMMdCKfgkOhtL6TrlSfIRu0yCz7ttnwrOidbU0/w413-h150/5.JPG" width="413" /></a></div><br /><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><br /></div></div><p></p><p> </p><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-81990142832171118872024-02-08T13:14:00.000-08:002024-02-08T13:14:58.906-08:00Easy French Bread Recipe<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_kTZeyrlOc5h4NPSDrr3rkioht4i3e8Xb0ZNp-Jbdd23qDfm98qh3q0vXPtq46o7NMP_wPH2zvjAyvml29JCdBSG4MEruNbzOTEMxtHuCDUxHdGBxulhbnLpcsgL0W1mPBfUWsSojOugUqNRET75gN6cZ65Sj_9xYXyGs_KcSaJvrWs43QyPSbaozrE/s500/Easy-French-Bread-Recipe.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM_kTZeyrlOc5h4NPSDrr3rkioht4i3e8Xb0ZNp-Jbdd23qDfm98qh3q0vXPtq46o7NMP_wPH2zvjAyvml29JCdBSG4MEruNbzOTEMxtHuCDUxHdGBxulhbnLpcsgL0W1mPBfUWsSojOugUqNRET75gN6cZ65Sj_9xYXyGs_KcSaJvrWs43QyPSbaozrE/s320/Easy-French-Bread-Recipe.png" width="213" /></a></span></i><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i></div><p></p><p>Nothing beats a crusty French bread loaf when you're serving soup or spaghetti. But store bought French bread often contains a host of dubious ingredients. For example, an "artisan" loaf from Safeway, which is a pretty clean product, as far as grocery store baked goods go, includes Soybean oil (a GMO ingredient and one of the most processed and least healthy fats you can eat), plus sugar <i>and </i>dextrose (both are sugar and <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2019/01/spotting-sugars-sneaky-names-with-free.html" target="_blank">both are likely GMO</a>). Besides, if you buy your French bread, you cheat yourself of the satisfaction of making it yourself! (Not to mention, you'll miss the delightful aroma of freshly baked bread streaming through your house.)</p><p>It takes no special tools or no fancy techniques to make the French bread my family loves. Give it a try!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1rClkV_BA35sidFB8I9Ruw3a-j3b31fLnA8h8mffGCUA/edit?usp=sharing" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="48" data-original-width="44" height="48" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjYBjWWquFQ8N3QCQd6JQ69V5NyPZRYYDZ9bbpsLnhyphenhyphen54a8VF6Y8-v0MLvTXWNbSi_4gTyIVz8QG71o7DKJ5bl4TCvEVuz97GFgxeFJ7hRQ69gFbHC9AxvIT3Z5DmVeKYf36oIMyJ5xXDrf8KwQpdd1suRE0kjtcRCBTR8qNvOYqcji4-bjrQ5yTPxtt0/s1600/print.jpg" width="44" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br />Easy French Bread Recipe</span><p></p><p>1 1/4 cup of warm water (80 to 90 degrees F.)</p><p>2 teaspoons granulated cane sugar </p><p>1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast <br /></p><p>1 teaspoon sea salt</p><p>3 - 3 1/2 cups all purpose flour</p><p>1 egg</p><p>1 tablespoon water <br /></p><p><br /></p><p>1. Measure the water in a glass measuring cup, then add the sugar, stirring until dissolved. Stir in the yeast. </p><p>2. Put the salt and 3 cups of flour into a large bowl. When the water mixture is foamy (which proves that the yeast is still good), add it to the bowl and mix everything together well.</p><p>3. The dough should be soft and pliable, but not super sticky to your hands. If necessary, add a little more flour to get the right consistency. (I recommend adding it a 1/4 cup at time. In <i><u>total</u></i>, I usually end up with 3 1/2 cups of flour.)</p><p>4. Lightly flour your countertop and knead the dough for 6 to 8 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. (To learn how to knead dough, see the note (*), below.)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuBO7wen_-StB7-Ym0wyj-dpgPPEK_4viDipWk5KGwZ25L1c_r-PRuCn0WTQ2mH-QFryF7HyQ0rqw87uJ33VCTd0xRzkLHnCGN-6olKH-UUy8xNAmSCpicWaZB1gJalDe2Hz_7FcvTpQ8dViffpSIDTAg2GBwSh_xvBZNQmsNKnhGEya9oHuI0okp5g3A/s3496/Rising%20Dough.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3496" data-original-width="2252" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuBO7wen_-StB7-Ym0wyj-dpgPPEK_4viDipWk5KGwZ25L1c_r-PRuCn0WTQ2mH-QFryF7HyQ0rqw87uJ33VCTd0xRzkLHnCGN-6olKH-UUy8xNAmSCpicWaZB1gJalDe2Hz_7FcvTpQ8dViffpSIDTAg2GBwSh_xvBZNQmsNKnhGEya9oHuI0okp5g3A/w285-h442/Rising%20Dough.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Let the dough rise.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>5. Place a thin layer of oil on the inner surface of a large bowl, so the dough doesn't stick to it. (For bread rising, ceramic bowls or <a href="https://amzn.to/4byU21W" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">plastic rising buckets</a> seem best.) Place the dough in the bowl, tossing it to coat its entire surface. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and place in a warm location (ideally 75 to 78 degrees F.) to rise until doubled (about 1 hour).</p><p>6. Place the dough back on the floured counter and cut it in half with a serrated knife. With your hands, press and shape the halves into rectangles measuring <i>approximately </i>8 x 10 inches. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIg1Ak7bLXEb32B1Ar_7FLYQxEr1fgZyeNo5sLAMVwdEGHyvbWemQHLDMef_Mitaq27wnp3jZeYcpPOBW22qNobi52uTXIEpTq82j8WzRlAJd6FtyQt13K3DNdZILwSpH730TYCeMSI7wu_Z3p5oWtuUM0RcUKne7xfKjdfRknzBBrjTjMo7sNF2E_roY/s3607/Dough%20shape.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2252" data-original-width="3607" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIg1Ak7bLXEb32B1Ar_7FLYQxEr1fgZyeNo5sLAMVwdEGHyvbWemQHLDMef_Mitaq27wnp3jZeYcpPOBW22qNobi52uTXIEpTq82j8WzRlAJd6FtyQt13K3DNdZILwSpH730TYCeMSI7wu_Z3p5oWtuUM0RcUKne7xfKjdfRknzBBrjTjMo7sNF2E_roY/w432-h270/Dough%20shape.jpg" width="432" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Shape the dough into two rectangles</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>7. Starting at a long end, roll up each rectangle, creating a log shape. Pinch the seam, as well as the ends, under. (If they don't want to stay pinched, wet your fingers and try again.)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcBdy2R2c3EH-7xsyJIE1iXamST9z5Y8yXOL_hpMS4TnN7ki94Xcg6r5vuyizGGh2_yqr28dvw3j4BdOCsQ1FnxVNn60IMSo1hu-qg7zCRliWiXSnl4xZHPv6pBSf4JNtfGKGYRyXipbcduTekuFe3jiknsTepPg_TNOkJBzgD2GlyRce5dge4ive5EIg/s2252/Shaped%20Loaves.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1978" data-original-width="2252" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcBdy2R2c3EH-7xsyJIE1iXamST9z5Y8yXOL_hpMS4TnN7ki94Xcg6r5vuyizGGh2_yqr28dvw3j4BdOCsQ1FnxVNn60IMSo1hu-qg7zCRliWiXSnl4xZHPv6pBSf4JNtfGKGYRyXipbcduTekuFe3jiknsTepPg_TNOkJBzgD2GlyRce5dge4ive5EIg/s320/Shaped%20Loaves.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Allow the loaves to rise.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>8. <a href="https://amzn.to/4948hKB" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">A French loaf pan</a> makes the nicest loafs, but you can simply use a baking sheet, as I do. Grease it (or place parchment paper on top of it), and place each loaf on top, several inches apart. Cover with a kitchen towel and allow the loaves to rise in a warm place for another 30 minutes.</p><p>9. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.</p><p>10. To get that lovely golden, crispiness on the outside of the bread, create an egg wash by beating together 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of water. Just before putting the bread in the oven, brush the wash over the top of the loaves, then use a serrated knife to cut 4 diagonal slashes on top of each loaf.</p><p>11. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnZwlcT9PWxCu14oqdTC7uHg3wV-Yf37IJ4498dWNg_sHFanRFaTVVsXZcCLm0XKKtxnJ5LRuuGzgx2CpBsLlHEeaZHZGTlZp2YxRomdx3s_R4n2ChttKGZdcmH-YCIQ2p4vew4t3Q9YeLTKsyKnoWmID89nHQvpOtqTTIl5G_ho0TjWuImBFJs4vFLHk/s2048/French%20Bread.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1280" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnZwlcT9PWxCu14oqdTC7uHg3wV-Yf37IJ4498dWNg_sHFanRFaTVVsXZcCLm0XKKtxnJ5LRuuGzgx2CpBsLlHEeaZHZGTlZp2YxRomdx3s_R4n2ChttKGZdcmH-YCIQ2p4vew4t3Q9YeLTKsyKnoWmID89nHQvpOtqTTIl5G_ho0TjWuImBFJs4vFLHk/w287-h458/French%20Bread.jpg" width="287" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Finished French bread.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span style="font-size: 100%;">* HOW TO KNEAD BREAD: </span></p>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman;">
<span style="font-size: 100%;">1. Cover your hands with a light dusting of flour.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman;">
<span style="font-size: 100%;">2. Using the heel of your hands, press down and push the dough away from you. Then fold the dough back over itself, toward you.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman;">
<span style="font-size: 100%;">3. Turn the dough one quarter- to half-way around and repeat step 2.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman;">
<span style="font-size: 100%;">4. Follow the recipe directions to know
how long to knead the dough. When the recipe doesn’t specify, knead
until the dough is smooth and shiny. When you pinch a bit of
well-kneaded dough in your fingers, it should feel a lot like pinching
your earlobe.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman;"><span style="font-size: 100%;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts: </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2009/10/scent-of-homemade-bread.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">No Fail Bread for Beginners </span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></a></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2009/10/scent-of-homemade-bread.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="157" data-original-width="320" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdhAmM0Io0fuhfptRQpfX0URjmEQpNWi3sN_gvTxt-Wts9eSXdXcf_mWf67ElTffaXtIFYfMuLUp4MLNHAwmEumj5OF7wrBei7pna1jeGrwWLK8aAi8gpDzibsJhuApbtXWOvrrfH0_PiGfy79NKoUBzIbzURL5BTyq1R1LoxhrNhee0oBq3x0jSD4C8Q/s1600/No%20Fail%20Bread.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2014/11/last-minute-thanksgiving-recipe-tender.html" target="_blank"> Crowd-Pleasing Dinner Roll</a><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2014/11/last-minute-thanksgiving-recipe-tender.html" target="_blank">s</a></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2014/11/last-minute-thanksgiving-recipe-tender.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwM_ix6Qsrs3OoFE-NFSlPhSbJ_iMgiOhN_olqDuqX7Cj_KQlKC0nAfD_yGytbf_jvK94PVsSCEq40ACiH-5gkN8Dh1mxoByutu4BdyKD2Ur8zjr6eqtGQsXNf-EOL6dT9s-vCLM8qhq2Eje-Vljx4K_jCaRz6BUTiheVtb3_2VjpBqkhH-yvgGw1dn0o/s320/Rolls.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: times new roman; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/08/best-zucchini-bread-ever.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglu1iDtSG8nSiDpzaKW_Evab_bDS5vYSMwQFxJgDNeh0g05E3sfUtGxadC5rvi3YgIb_3_qKN4fA2XzpxV-SY5k2WboCfxZ3_jdP9UcBsXYcvJetMdOWM6HBWcCyrnvyh6I-voWtRRrt9CaMj9wcEzDtr7XS2ovwi-IGtcOg3KdoonRpxN4t0eVmcoEIo/s320/Kristinas-Famous-Zucchini-Bread-Recipe.png" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <b><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></b></div><p></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><br />Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-76755929830443187402024-02-05T11:15:00.000-08:002024-02-27T14:27:24.696-08:00How to Make Chicken Feet Broth<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Re7NdR9hgCwXwaSEHUl0jg2m6-OLNRj7s52rs7nU1Hsjxee_RUWl-TSgJVOPx5iJhHCRCEOVogf8iZOKsRiX_5-sQ20WPhBQHaY7W9esezEAOb1VbM_Zd6A5xSsm2WMr5tdDYnlRNRsqY7m6XWkK0SHpKYIsMWYUURZDrSEnGO1jIWadIKGeeMjMWdA/s1500/How-to-Make-Chicken-Feet-Broth.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="How to Make Chicken Feet Broth" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Re7NdR9hgCwXwaSEHUl0jg2m6-OLNRj7s52rs7nU1Hsjxee_RUWl-TSgJVOPx5iJhHCRCEOVogf8iZOKsRiX_5-sQ20WPhBQHaY7W9esezEAOb1VbM_Zd6A5xSsm2WMr5tdDYnlRNRsqY7m6XWkK0SHpKYIsMWYUURZDrSEnGO1jIWadIKGeeMjMWdA/w234-h353/How-to-Make-Chicken-Feet-Broth.jpg" title="How to cook with chicken feet" width="234" /></a>Part of the reason I homestead is that while meat is the most important part of my healthy diet, grocery store meat is often...well, not ideal. When I raise my own meat, I know not only what those animals have eaten, but I also know they've had a contented life, and then a quick, humane death that's as stress-free as possible.</div><p></p><p>But when you start raising meat, one of the things you'll likely find yourself wanting to do is use every possible part of the animal. To me, doing otherwise seems wasteful and unthankful. That doesn't mean I always have to eat nose to tail (although I'm always experimenting with ways to do that). Sometimes, it just means feeding the dogs or chickens the bits I don't want, or taking all the remains out into the woods for the wildlife to eat - or even simply burying the remains to help feed the soil. </p><p>That said, <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2024/01/january-on-homestead.html" target="_blank">when I recently butchered some of our roosters</a>, I decided it was time to use chicken feet (sometimes called "chicken paws") for making broth or stock. I've known about this practice for a long time, but since we rarely butcher chickens (we prefer <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/02/why-raise-rabbits-for-meat.html" target="_blank">rabbit meat</a> to chicken meat), I never got around to trying it. If you don't butcher your own chickens, you can simply buy chicken feet at a butcher shop or grocery store. (However, <a href="https://www.thegrocer.co.uk/food-safety/chlorinated-chicken-explained-why-do-the-americans-treat-their-poultry-with-chlorine/555618.article" target="_blank">like grocery store chicken meat, they get washed in bleach</a>...yuck!)</p><p>As it turns out, chicken feet are eaten all over the world, and in some cases, are considered a delicacy. They are rich in collagen, calcium, magnesium, glucosamine, chondroitin, and minerals. They are well worth using, and stock or broth is probably the most accessible way for newbies to use them up.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Preparing Your Own Chicken Feet</span></p><p>This article will take you step-by-step through the process of using chicken feet to make broth, but first I want to discuss the difference between store bought chicken feet and the feet you get from your own chickens:<i> Cleanliness</i>. If you raise chickens, you know how nasty their feet can get, so if you butcher your own birds, you'll need to get their feet clean before you bring them into your kitchen.</p><p>If you're plucking your chickens, you'll scald them first. One option for getting the feet clean is to use that same water you use to scald the bird to also skin the feet. The trick here is to get the feet just hot enough to make them super easy to peel, but not so hot that they start cooking and the skin clings to the bone and cartilage. (More on skinning chicken feet, below.) If you choose this method, I suggest saving all the feet for last, so you don't get poop and debris in the water you're using to scald your birds before plucking.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSm-AfyofQZYXjkFj_2g3JaevxHKXT330TtCd9-ru2OQ6W5XbUcmUXBto1mxvXcuvFlqW9X0GBHLk-BOCCtTNADyURLXWNKEdyGO5FnAaeRmpVXCXRukbpDGIYrYMMnrh3M_DY4bCAP00Id3kw8NYFQ7LMV3EaKnuUwd0aEV2oeEQuMC5Gf1nMxE0GdTc/s2294/Chicken%20feet%20in%20bucket.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2294" data-original-width="2095" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSm-AfyofQZYXjkFj_2g3JaevxHKXT330TtCd9-ru2OQ6W5XbUcmUXBto1mxvXcuvFlqW9X0GBHLk-BOCCtTNADyURLXWNKEdyGO5FnAaeRmpVXCXRukbpDGIYrYMMnrh3M_DY4bCAP00Id3kw8NYFQ7LMV3EaKnuUwd0aEV2oeEQuMC5Gf1nMxE0GdTc/s320/Chicken%20feet%20in%20bucket.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A bucket of chicken feet, on butchering day.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>Instead, I chose to remove the feet from each bird as I was butchering, and toss them in a nearby bucket of water. This removed most of the filth. When all the butchering was done, I put the feet in a bowl and add fresh salted water. A splash of vinegar to help remove grime is fine, too. Soak the feet in the fridge overnight, or at least for a few hours. Then rinse the feet and store them in a Ziplock-style bag in the fridge until you're ready to use them.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Peeling and De-Nailing</span></p><p>It's a good idea to remove the nails from each foot before you begin cooking. They aren't edible. And you really don't want to go fishing into your finished broth to find every toenail that has fallen off. (Ick!) </p><p><i></i></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOh1j2HOOe-BWMudfL9CNQJTHFYUf01KbHfn7bYvSUKfQgv62RkuUhX5C22U0wF0I5tZfYYb92z-MJta_D6oIEaCo-1pCTPht_bI_OIHC2HP9PQ0f2J7l-DfIkiex3IAGJ8xIGx84bCPAdSehyphenhyphenSk_8-0p0N7C5-IpdMl2EQIU8lKwu-iPmIRygkznKZZs/s2048/Chicken%20Feet.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1153" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOh1j2HOOe-BWMudfL9CNQJTHFYUf01KbHfn7bYvSUKfQgv62RkuUhX5C22U0wF0I5tZfYYb92z-MJta_D6oIEaCo-1pCTPht_bI_OIHC2HP9PQ0f2J7l-DfIkiex3IAGJ8xIGx84bCPAdSehyphenhyphenSk_8-0p0N7C5-IpdMl2EQIU8lKwu-iPmIRygkznKZZs/w241-h428/Chicken%20Feet.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nails removed!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p>To remove the nails, I used garden pruners, but good poultry shears should work, too. I chose to remove the nails <i>before </i>soaking the feet in a bowl of water, but it's fine to do it after soaking and rinsing, too. <br /></p><p></p><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Traditionally, chicken feet aren't always peeled, but most experts recommend peeling them because it reduces the risk of food poisoning. Plus, they do make the feet look more like food!</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">To peel chicken feet, bring some water <i>ALMOST </i>to a boil and drop in the legs. After 30 seconds, use tongs to remove them, then plunge them into ice water. Begin peeling where the leg was removed from the body. If the skin doesn't pull off very easily, pop the foot back in the water for 10-30 seconds. Remove and try again. Repeat as necessary until the skin comes off easily.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDws0NjgrPq2Gc8ytdH6chN3GVe8k-GTu1gz-dkqKn8GVulksHyeROTYypIjYiZB0bDmsMqwh2YotYxjHwLHKMU05qQtNYVY3WNQlJ5qiFsljcKJwtp0NJ8KtCMjah2az4mCoaeED3KgfZXuopqUeFvM1y6vWWI9v9w3BkNRrbSv1VvVJE69AoI1vEa04/s2048/Peeled%20Chicken%20Feet.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDws0NjgrPq2Gc8ytdH6chN3GVe8k-GTu1gz-dkqKn8GVulksHyeROTYypIjYiZB0bDmsMqwh2YotYxjHwLHKMU05qQtNYVY3WNQlJ5qiFsljcKJwtp0NJ8KtCMjah2az4mCoaeED3KgfZXuopqUeFvM1y6vWWI9v9w3BkNRrbSv1VvVJE69AoI1vEa04/w296-h395/Peeled%20Chicken%20Feet.jpg" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>You never know where homesteading will take you!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Now the feet are ready to turn into broth! <br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: large;">Making Chicken Feet Broth</span></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">There are many tools you can use to make broth. The most common is simply a large pot on a stove. I chose to use an electric turkey roaster. Other options include using a crock pot or pressure cooker. Then follow these steps:<br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">1. Stick the feet in the pot. If you have chicken necks or bones, add those, too. If desired, you may add onion skins, carrots, green carrot tops, celery, and/or a few herbs. (Don't overdo the herbs, however, or the broth may turn bitter.) Cover with water. I also like to add a dash of vinegar to help leach nutrients out of the bones, as well as a little sea salt.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPrHNqwDTR8ChITU1r6mMMgC-CTP25SfW3ITCU4CMy36EUirJCoKIgYxBp9hWvRYViPhXQIvVouWbKNBTkdGFiAuzTcY4F1wzWoDGInGPlUKnc-5dJs9lSzHnf9yGCPe3CEiRueiZ9YjlRgb-kJpLGV0y_9onHBeY-XoUXT_IwSOoP4MeUgGL4rRsk-4/s2048/Making%20Chicken%20Broth.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1153" height="501" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPrHNqwDTR8ChITU1r6mMMgC-CTP25SfW3ITCU4CMy36EUirJCoKIgYxBp9hWvRYViPhXQIvVouWbKNBTkdGFiAuzTcY4F1wzWoDGInGPlUKnc-5dJs9lSzHnf9yGCPe3CEiRueiZ9YjlRgb-kJpLGV0y_9onHBeY-XoUXT_IwSOoP4MeUgGL4rRsk-4/w282-h501/Making%20Chicken%20Broth.jpg" width="282" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The makings of a fine broth.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p>2. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. When the broth is dark and rich-tasting, it's done. This typically takes at least 4 hours, but best results are usually found by simmering overnight.</p></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8YM1h2gkULHJBQ3MocWgea4tkbV-7Ho3X-B6gvjahGQj0JUXNSVMYWwpJTF9jhJQMLQHIrgOAtwkgSsfbbeTTz1TprMRw3dAU4UFcLhUAXKjwheocfYL2DdCPRVY86kZEDbL4ApR1Qy4QXLzeGQX-s5BnuyrgPRCm1htD1FFt9R53P-uxB3n2FOCHTI/s4000/Finished%20broth.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="517" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8YM1h2gkULHJBQ3MocWgea4tkbV-7Ho3X-B6gvjahGQj0JUXNSVMYWwpJTF9jhJQMLQHIrgOAtwkgSsfbbeTTz1TprMRw3dAU4UFcLhUAXKjwheocfYL2DdCPRVY86kZEDbL4ApR1Qy4QXLzeGQX-s5BnuyrgPRCm1htD1FFt9R53P-uxB3n2FOCHTI/w291-h517/Finished%20broth.jpg" width="291" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The resulting, rich, beautiful broth.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">3. Turn off the heat and strain out the solids. Once the pot is cool, you may wish to remove the fat. (This is only absolutely necessary if you're going to can the broth.) To do that, place the pot in the fridge, covered, overnight. In the morning, peel off any fat that has risen to the top and hardened.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16nFKl8QFbFuPR2mFGtpfB4w1HReuUYsITx6u48BMyFO311rgVGELKSSUoUR9zE06N8AYFSGvaoxOlRBIgGbwRZeEkPSEKiuguWgVz-3zrmm052_NyQOOsYqlHOGJDblKEphuVVfJf1ZdFConDGIThgiMb1vc70-jiLyRe4cEIJEk_fNEnnaANrFHqqE/s4000/broth%20fat.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16nFKl8QFbFuPR2mFGtpfB4w1HReuUYsITx6u48BMyFO311rgVGELKSSUoUR9zE06N8AYFSGvaoxOlRBIgGbwRZeEkPSEKiuguWgVz-3zrmm052_NyQOOsYqlHOGJDblKEphuVVfJf1ZdFConDGIThgiMb1vc70-jiLyRe4cEIJEk_fNEnnaANrFHqqE/w216-h384/broth%20fat.jpg" width="216" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>After sitting overnight, there is very little fat in this broth. This amount is safe for canning.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Now you can freeze the broth, freeze dry it, or can it. For more details - including information on how to can broth - <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/01/homemade-stock.html" target="_blank">see this post</a>. To learn how to make <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2014/09/how-to-make-bone-broth-or-beef-stock.html" target="_blank">beef stock</a>, click here. For information on <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/01/homemade-stock.html" target="_blank">making vegetable and fish stock, click here</a>.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizbtCzcGJw4jUikcKlBnMwNgQRZzkLeaNtV6pcOjT3MhrryhXflfsmPKlQ3n-vU33BFOnQnjsqK94w5ox5fueJD7Dh_qU59pQGG8RTZ4C8DQ8HP0QPjkwISg3RsE-Qpbh6_DkFj6H9FzbD7KLRwKKAkBNivK1Qem0t-W2MJxnHOBNNWHHs86yWvBKzQSc/s2048/Chicken%20Stock.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1507" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizbtCzcGJw4jUikcKlBnMwNgQRZzkLeaNtV6pcOjT3MhrryhXflfsmPKlQ3n-vU33BFOnQnjsqK94w5ox5fueJD7Dh_qU59pQGG8RTZ4C8DQ8HP0QPjkwISg3RsE-Qpbh6_DkFj6H9FzbD7KLRwKKAkBNivK1Qem0t-W2MJxnHOBNNWHHs86yWvBKzQSc/s320/Chicken%20Stock.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Finished broth. The little particles are bits of the food used to make the broth. If you prefer, you can strain those out before canning or otherwise using.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"> </div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"> </div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts:</span></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/04/top-13-uses-for-eggshells.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="278" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFIlalxyaTy78XqdWmYFq-OQugze2WJ0RjCpKXVgIcnvcrXrSUuXJP1xj5CSkEx5GFe_fYxBOWUgM8pbBYsGrU7I-4MNctWnOcIoCGyRBUQ7hzvmSjw6zCJjXgwSbcjC6a51XdveNDYOb7-t5RSSGc5xOTPx3aPdN7LqfpUy_rW9fkJEEkA3Pij7iHreM/s320/Top-13-Uses-for-Eggshells.jpg" width="213" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/01/my-chickens-arent-laying-what-can-i-do.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="344" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1VKaDHVNp8dEhlCGIjBYxgxCzDAmmWSTjQJtaHKJokT2dDAQe-bHg7sua8qJosOEuwi1srnP-bodoOlUyCFo7b41Uz6ZrShb0PiW6t4wfR8eMCo4_V5HieRhOEkvwJUwRs_gI1vw_hw122qI-hAAXOdkwBIWzVPnhkZ7cbh8vQDwe22WHj9iONwRztg/s320/When%20Chickens%20Arent%20Laying%20Eggs.jpg" width="213" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2012/08/what-i-wish-id-known-about-backyard.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNGeRycLe0OcUFWk5nBDWWfJbyEZ9oXoXoxl_451l6rCJNMBYT-5dOTYeCfXUpm8I_f8kAz2QfjbzWGOLrVi3vBHtQBkPRGwfDKHMwik9g5Id7zQ8h-t8nrZsh_hRjKh3GBgVfLceCuGds4-a4o9VG2L1FJVLz-O_tJnEN7-gdWYCJyk3ZqYdbhsW5xc8/s320/4-Things-I-Wish-Id-Known-About-Backyard-Chickens.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> </div><br /> </div><br /><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><br /></div></div><p></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-13230237068333065562024-01-31T07:00:00.000-08:002024-01-31T07:00:00.125-08:00January on the Homestead<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi469an1qGFTwdNUagxWdAAL5kZN644Eq6Dk2QLKczRBuRbGLxYO5AhgkvSejrVzDRLWsKI4ivgkTMBPYD29VE2BesGv16olVS9-KgBTvDJ1TTIUwLBdl5MHf944EndNAszFt9qxkklQW4mK30oqgC95pYv0dwYwUh8A6ifNbQ7O4Kxja0_H6tdXCTLVCM/s1918/Brussels%20sprouts.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1918" data-original-width="1080" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi469an1qGFTwdNUagxWdAAL5kZN644Eq6Dk2QLKczRBuRbGLxYO5AhgkvSejrVzDRLWsKI4ivgkTMBPYD29VE2BesGv16olVS9-KgBTvDJ1TTIUwLBdl5MHf944EndNAszFt9qxkklQW4mK30oqgC95pYv0dwYwUh8A6ifNbQ7O4Kxja0_H6tdXCTLVCM/w279-h496/Brussels%20sprouts.jpg" width="279" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Harvesting Brussels sprouts.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p>I haven't given monthly updates on our homestead happenings for quite a number of years, but this year, I'm picking it up again for one particular reason: I'll be tracking how much produce comes from my garden all year long. I'm doing this for a number of reasons. One is that I like to periodically track expenses and outputs on our homestead - a sort of financial "check up." This way, I can either say with certainty that homesteading makes financial sense or I can take steps to make it more efficient. (I can't think of a time when I've done this sort of tracking and determined a project wasn't financially worth it; but there have been plenty of times that I learned homesteading was saving us money. For example, when I tracked our expenses for <a href="http://proverbsthirtyonewoman.blogspot.com/2011/12/getting-06-cent-eggs-or-feeding.html#.UqYlTOKNfCY" target="_blank">egg laying chickens</a>.)</p><p>When I announced this tracking project on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ProverbsThirtyOneWomanBlog" target="_blank">this blog's Facebook page</a>, some people's immediate reaction was to say that gardening isn't about money. While I agree there are lots of important reasons to grow your own food (better quality, truly organic produce with more nutrients and better flavor, being more self-reliant, getting outside more, etc.), the money aspect is an important to many people, including me. And I can't tell you how many times someone has given me the excuse that growing food costs "too much." It's true that getting your garden started can cost some money (although it's a mistake to think you <i>have </i>to spend a lot; <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" target="_blank">no till methods</a>, in particular, can be very inexpensive), I know from past experience that it still saves money at the grocery store.</p><p>In fact, <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/12/how-much-money-can-you-save-gardening.html" target="_blank">in 2013</a>, I tracked what I grew in my small suburban yard and learned that I conservatively saved $1,492 that year on produce and eggs. Today, I have a considerably larger garden, plus an orchard, plus grocery prices just keep going up...so I expect to save much more.</p><p>Here's how it's going to work: Every time I harvest produce from our homestead, I'll weigh it and log that figure. At the end of the month, I'll look at prices at my local Walmart (it's what we have here!) and figure out how much I'd have spent to buy that food. In 2013, I only looked at conventional produce prices, because even though the food I grew was organic, we certainly couldn't afford to <i>buy </i>organic. Even though that's still true, this year, just for curiosity's sake, I'll use both conventional and organic (if available) food prices.</p><p>I've also been asked to track how much time I spend gardening, which I will do. (Although I'll say upfront that I've always considered every dollar I save by gardening at least a dollar less I have to earn through money-paying work.) I don't expect to have much in the way of store-bought expenses going into the garden, but I'll also track what few I have. </p><p>At the end of the year, I'll add it all up and see how much money we saved. All in all, it ought to be interesting! See the bottom of this post for this month's totals.</p><p>In other news, January has mostly been a time of working on our house (an endless project, since we bought it unfinished), and organization. However, I also butchered chickens for the first time in many years.<br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9CyzABLx1faznbFBsdeyA4XIhn4azE0OCxst_IkDjnWrZuTRKbXW6BUDR5HFz6DZih86aB3mXQEUNotKNpSI07Yxn9DtsAQWB97-16Fpciu7RwMMuSKfFQ7JVyhDsil9rMBBIki31A88Gz7YACx29FaMnjoyhfSyfuAHsqP7bnvGDB6jOaRlgtMof00/s960/Collards%20and%20Kale.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="540" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9CyzABLx1faznbFBsdeyA4XIhn4azE0OCxst_IkDjnWrZuTRKbXW6BUDR5HFz6DZih86aB3mXQEUNotKNpSI07Yxn9DtsAQWB97-16Fpciu7RwMMuSKfFQ7JVyhDsil9rMBBIki31A88Gz7YACx29FaMnjoyhfSyfuAHsqP7bnvGDB6jOaRlgtMof00/w272-h484/Collards%20and%20Kale.jpg" width="272" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Harvesting collards and kale from the winter garden</i>. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table>When we replace an aging flock of chickens, normally we purchase sexed chicks locally or through the mail. But this fall, we decided to take a neighbor up on his offer of free fertilized eggs. His flock is very mixed, so the resulting chickens are "barnyard mix" (i.e. mutts). Well, of 15 chicks that hatched and survived, 11 were roosters. <i>Ha!</i> So we decided to butcher all but one of the roos. (Why? Because that may roosters will beat up each other - <i>and </i>over-mate the hens. Plus, we have chickens for eggs; we have no reason to feed chickens that don't lay.)<br /><p></p><p>There was some confusion about how butchering day was going to work. I thought my hubby was going to butcher and I would assist, since that's how we did it over a decade ago. He thought I was going to do all the butchering (as I do with rabbits and quail) and that he'd assist. <i>Ahem</i>. In the end, he caught and dispatched the roosters and I did the rest. I wasn't terribly well prepared for that. Umpteen years ago, all I did was help remove the guts...and my hubby didn't have a strong recollection about how to butcher chickens. Thankfully, I'd watched a few butchering videos the morning of dispatch, but I would have done more research if I'd known I was relying on myself for all the butchering knowledge. Anyway, long story short, I got through 5 roosters before we ran out of time.</p><p>Previously, we'd decided to try skinning these birds. One reason for this was that we didn't have propane for our turkey cooker, which is where we scald birds. Another was that we <i>HATE </i>scalding birds; it's so nasty-smelling! We also aren't fans of plucking by hand or with the <a href="https://amzn.to/49iPN93" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">plucking attachment we have for an electric drill</a>. (I understand an expensive plucking machine might make things easier, but remember, we rarely butcher chickens, so we've never purchased one.) Also, we aren't huge fans of eating chicken skin. Plus, we thought it might be easier and faster to skin rather than pluck.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoydHdBbOOn1DVzSK3G7mwS-En_5W2R-WBbpBM1XfkhTCg22JixMEWWOjs-vgIbxleSMhXadUcyTJcQ0BjBBHt9RugTo0LAeehV2EJ97NqnioPCWokJ8hQ7BY8xuhpau-QYtjk4zBnY24w9merCecy3ulPvGwsDH-I_3iGxPUBb2fqcp5G6gAcatUEmRE/s2048/First%20and%20Last.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1102" data-original-width="2048" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoydHdBbOOn1DVzSK3G7mwS-En_5W2R-WBbpBM1XfkhTCg22JixMEWWOjs-vgIbxleSMhXadUcyTJcQ0BjBBHt9RugTo0LAeehV2EJ97NqnioPCWokJ8hQ7BY8xuhpau-QYtjk4zBnY24w9merCecy3ulPvGwsDH-I_3iGxPUBb2fqcp5G6gAcatUEmRE/w450-h242/First%20and%20Last.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The bird on the right is my first try: Pathetic! On the left is the 5th bird: Much better!<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>The first bird was a real struggle, I don't mind telling you, I thought whoever said skinning chickens was easier was a cruel prankster! But by bird #5, I had figured some things out and I do think I like skinning better than plucking. Was it faster? Eh...probably about the same - although once I have the skill down better, it might go more quickly.<br /></p><p>A lot of folks on Facebook wondered why the meat was so reddish. This is <i>not </i>because I didn't drain the blood from them. There are actually several factors at play here:</p><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> One is the breed of chicken. Commercially-raised meat chickens, and even most meat chickens grown by homesteaders, have naturally pale meat. However, the chickens I butchered were not a meat breed. </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Another factor is feed. Birds given only commercial chicken feed tend to have pale meat compared to birds that forage for food like bugs.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Finally, exercise is a factor. Commercially-raised chickens are abnormally heavy, plus they are confined, so they get little exercise. My chickens are not free-range (because they'd be eaten by predators instantaneously), but they have a large yard to run around in. </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">For my tips on skinning chickens, <a href="https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02SzccPWtag2fa5RiC3nGHB3ntgyCChmc2CA9zjYdexD5bqL9bYhLHar8fkYc7az45l&id=100079502859001&mibextid=9R9pXO" target="_blank">s</a><a href="https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02SzccPWtag2fa5RiC3nGHB3ntgyCChmc2CA9zjYdexD5bqL9bYhLHar8fkYc7az45l&id=100079502859001&mibextid=9R9pXO" target="_blank">ee this Facebook post</a>.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"> </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgai8R5yGZN37dKFEnnaE2VY9WGgxtSYT5YZJgeweSpkLANuc2H01sTAXr0TQrI0hUQUipMHlxqcnss_e0GNPj0EFaEI6uupuDtNlyZRk17iPrKEhvbOvN6rWBNldQ1qeaHlKSZmhGQm2QVqejP1Ne5cRusb5iO4w2MRRxiliBSlMZEHPM1Y2sPURLelmY/s2048/Fresh%20Chicken.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1106" data-original-width="2048" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgai8R5yGZN37dKFEnnaE2VY9WGgxtSYT5YZJgeweSpkLANuc2H01sTAXr0TQrI0hUQUipMHlxqcnss_e0GNPj0EFaEI6uupuDtNlyZRk17iPrKEhvbOvN6rWBNldQ1qeaHlKSZmhGQm2QVqejP1Ne5cRusb5iO4w2MRRxiliBSlMZEHPM1Y2sPURLelmY/w428-h231/Fresh%20Chicken.jpg" width="428" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>5 birds, resting before eating or preserving</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">January Produce Totals:</span></p><p><b>At this time, we're mostly eating produce that I preserved last year. Even so, I do have a winter garden and we do eat fresh food from it during the cold months, as listed below.<br /></b></p><p><i>Collards and Kale: </i>5 lbs. </p><p>------------> $29.60 organic or conventional (I was shocked they were the same price at our local Walmart!)<br /></p><p><i>Brussels sprouts:</i> 6 lb. .06 oz.</p><p>------------> $24.24 organic, $18.06 conventional<br /></p><p><i>Snow peas:</i> 10oz. </p><p>------------>$4.71 organic, $3.21 conventional</p><p><b>Saved in January:</b></p><p>$55.55 if purchased organic or $50.87 if purchased conventional. Not bad, considering I've spent ZERO time gardening since fall!<br /></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-67976366805273692282024-01-23T11:56:00.000-08:002024-01-23T11:56:24.346-08:00Old-Fashioned Applesauce Cake<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwaPrHhTQE0HVjr85uaxH5SHcFe4JqMH2tnzV8TMC6GQ1ad3vWLbE-r1c6TamLD1wWk-LrprTSVgHMAcAwxPJ2WlLyAJtA8On8PoJzFNfhNEeKSXwWL8dPF9qwegmd0UJ-CGxad-X9_vWqiBIUgdVbPG80s7vh8BIgwWfJ2XIeob1qyPjOjyVIAGw3Jn0/s1500/Old-Fashioned-Applesauce-Cake-Recipe.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Old Fashioned Applesauce Cake Recipe" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="413" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwaPrHhTQE0HVjr85uaxH5SHcFe4JqMH2tnzV8TMC6GQ1ad3vWLbE-r1c6TamLD1wWk-LrprTSVgHMAcAwxPJ2WlLyAJtA8On8PoJzFNfhNEeKSXwWL8dPF9qwegmd0UJ-CGxad-X9_vWqiBIUgdVbPG80s7vh8BIgwWfJ2XIeob1qyPjOjyVIAGw3Jn0/w275-h413/Old-Fashioned-Applesauce-Cake-Recipe.jpg" title="Classic Applesauce Cake Recipe" width="275" /></a></div><br />This is one of those classic recipes that gets passed down from generation to generation. It's simple - even humble - but absolutely delicious. And like all the best cakes, it doesn't require a frosting. (Although you could mix powdered sugar and a bit of water or milk to drizzle over the top, if you like things really sweet.)<br /><p></p><p>I got this recipe from a friend whose mother and grandmother had both used it as a staple dessert. As you can see below, in the recipe itself, I've made a couple of adjustments: I changed the fat, which my friend's family had noted as Crisco - an unhealthy, highly processed fat that is now made with GMO soybeans. The original recipe also called for "a box of raisins," but I've little doubt the amount of raisins found in a 1930s box was different from the amount found in a box of raisins today; so feel free to play with the quantity. If you're a raisin-hater, you could also omit the raisins - though they do add to the overall moistness of the cake. <br /></p><span style="font-size: large;">Old Fashioned Applesauce Cake<div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1h2btTg_PaSp44VYaIwSWRVahoMwJqFXYwtU4bw9hQdU/edit?usp=sharing" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="48" data-original-width="44" height="48" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZulXRALTrRHHscIDpObIbFkGexQ5LW8rt52nHR6_aBeKO7TINyL1W6yyK64sfs-3E_6L-lOWfbc17T3HbY8YLqn-29d6Np_wgkPgdASSsYb5jbtncQVQCuqlTiC5UUXYyVrgm7glAF-9-PNsPb3VUPTq_ghQ_OsoX9MsyRhK_5RkgGExzZDgBop5NdY/s1600/print.jpg" width="44" /></a></div></span><p>1 cup coconut oil<i>*</i><br />1 cup granulated sugar<br />1/2 teaspoon sea salt<br />3 teaspoons ground cinnamon<br />2 teaspoons ground nutmeg<br />1 teaspoon ground ginger<br />3 cups all-purpose flour<br />1 teaspoon baking soda<br />2 cups applesauce**<br />2 tablespoons dark molasses<br />raisins, to taste***</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXTsUborCOrOvHrY3fJuIq4Zbpb6qEsdtOUWO2SYPEaQuFpTDkv2HaBvORjhEdUowb9El3zQ6ooVTdsIgqD7FVKpJOuNFbnqzvcVC8QjZuxSEliplSHsih-D_kGxSQsIt5dP-sXj6fzKwHiOcue-Kex56OO91aY3c-v7_6rttw1vsXr-gPNpoLnkbN1E/s4000/20240122_155552.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXTsUborCOrOvHrY3fJuIq4Zbpb6qEsdtOUWO2SYPEaQuFpTDkv2HaBvORjhEdUowb9El3zQ6ooVTdsIgqD7FVKpJOuNFbnqzvcVC8QjZuxSEliplSHsih-D_kGxSQsIt5dP-sXj6fzKwHiOcue-Kex56OO91aY3c-v7_6rttw1vsXr-gPNpoLnkbN1E/w232-h412/20240122_155552.jpg" width="232" /></a></div><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
<!--top articles--><i>* </i><i>The original recipe called for unhealthy Crisco; lard or butter would be healthier alternatives if you don't want to use coconut oil.</i></p><p></p><p><i>** I've used both unsweetened applesauce and my own <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/08/the-best-tasting-easiest-applesauce-ever.html" target="_blank">homemade applesauce</a>, which has a bit of sugar in it. Both work very well for this recipe. <br /></i></p><p><i>*** </i><i>I use about 10-12 oz. of raisins. I typically use the old-fashioned, dark kind, but for the photos, I used a mix of dark and golden raisins (because that's what I had in my pantry).</i></p><p><i> </i></p><p><i></i>1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. and grease two 8-in. cake tins. Set aside.<br /></p><p>2. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat together the oil and sugar until light and fluffy.</p><p>3. Add the salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger, mixing in well.</p><p>4. Add the flour and baking soda and beat until just mixed.</p><p>5. Beat in the applesauce and molasses.</p><p>6. Fold in the raisins by hand.</p><p>7. Divide the batter evenly between the two prepared pans and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdvVvtVwn_F7G88Nc9QHtpHhQGkUk3EE4UxDF0sLj2T61pNcCpU1PnZcjHCt_1uCMqWjAr2FHTP1udVvUJiddfstUbNeuZPJdWGNqKvedjYEPv4VAC90ZF0VzV1cANM7dEZ22Pfqc082WKIRyj1jVYp2JLzXqiFwiZW8oWQw4gbr41pT4whljVdEwGNw/s4000/20240122_155508.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdvVvtVwn_F7G88Nc9QHtpHhQGkUk3EE4UxDF0sLj2T61pNcCpU1PnZcjHCt_1uCMqWjAr2FHTP1udVvUJiddfstUbNeuZPJdWGNqKvedjYEPv4VAC90ZF0VzV1cANM7dEZ22Pfqc082WKIRyj1jVYp2JLzXqiFwiZW8oWQw4gbr41pT4whljVdEwGNw/w243-h432/20240122_155508.jpg" width="243" /></a></div><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts: </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/08/the-best-tasting-easiest-applesauce-ever.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="276" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHmz3BHtAIJcQiVPBiNpdzSa4zs3uqH21kue59t3kFGClZiJcOHbM6F7BtOqDijfcXNN9zvQs7ZCJ4TFzEZN4fsk3Ff8ID9RosgZWx7H_5mMKnvvWGZRmLmcgpOHMT003_Po_AnxREtNX6qemkKTMQx5ouHUrXArw3WpMDggdGU5SxHg6iYtiDEjVS690/s320/EasiestApplesauceEver.jpg" width="221" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2016/09/old-fashioned-baked-apples-recipe.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIUSEwonVO6c4qttBaPH-TPQmeV9rMUFzXSMkDOMyz_gj3dOC7-PdGox2mShTn6ZMxsmMGSa3sRZyv8Sdz814iTteQAMI-CEkkMgvcXeusRgRIxOFkX8jE2SZnTGKW19kYwbWrEAzLqECtRzyGbT09mYpBnHrGWzvky_Nx_5tbRSlYckIYTm85T5uCZ4/s320/Old-Fashioned-Baked-Apples-Recipe.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/09/moms-apple-cake-recipe.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoUxQrA1MTZjheethFxUKaii7lAe_ywO7V3GFUTJY3yREqSutmL9N5bNmApbAWSY5Mx1uRzGu5Jl1YZjesmh2GkPsoI9NtD6OsJoTJK5x3smau3M6TljUaGqeiLEUBDenCVsicytpDusVbO4BhhWGx1NShHQN2u66eQzMCWcNa98ObF-q_TBxPFtdvr-c/s320/Moms-Apple-Cake-Recipe.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/09/low-sugar-no-pectin-apple-peel-and-core.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="349" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9a2JnPsGWpaLfIbv7VLhhpT6z0mvD_aiLK_MVOSu8jMEU_tAEnXqGol1cm_Vm0DW_YfnYYCopRxIIN4rxxOoVgR15E-DM4IWRy_g1Y3IQ4q9gnljjxwsFbXI27zsnIfYBtQhY6M9rwjIWGLLcGHp6J0tVw0LMFC-oyK1Hr3-pUsfDvQ2PmYi-IVfoQo/s320/Low-Sugar-No-Pectin-Apple-Peel-and-Core-Jelly.jpg" width="175" /></a></div><br /><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p></p><p></p><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-18885232478006329202024-01-18T13:29:00.000-08:002024-02-28T12:26:45.328-08:00The Basics of No-Till Gardening<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDWMxBBRWIT47gMc8jXpu2iLrVJXgaqAFmg3LvqE6nOPxi43R63dFzSSFXH5WQ-gJBgsKuMDaCoMcy3s-Xc99i8o31i549J39wWQNZ5T2Sl3IMHWAZCeAMe82q4YEKPIN5UbOsQgyfNiUnDkVgQfVU2V6w9JlD-ZbEruVvbDpY_o5A4nkZqdgtRWeTcs/s1500/Basics-of-no-till-gardening.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="The Basics of No Till Gardening" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDWMxBBRWIT47gMc8jXpu2iLrVJXgaqAFmg3LvqE6nOPxi43R63dFzSSFXH5WQ-gJBgsKuMDaCoMcy3s-Xc99i8o31i549J39wWQNZ5T2Sl3IMHWAZCeAMe82q4YEKPIN5UbOsQgyfNiUnDkVgQfVU2V6w9JlD-ZbEruVvbDpY_o5A4nkZqdgtRWeTcs/w283-h425/Basics-of-no-till-gardening.jpg" title="How to make a no till no dig garden" width="283" /></a></span></i></div><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p>I vividly recall my dad dragging out a heavy tiller and repeatedly tilling up the weedy soil to plant our vegetable garden each year...so when I got married and moved to a suburban house with a nice-sized backyard, I did the same. (<i>And by "I," I mean my husband. Haha!</i>) I sowed seeds and eagerly waited for them to come up. (<i>Yes me; not he!</i>) But the weeds came up first. Not too easily discouraged, I pulled them and waited for my desired veggies to emerge. They did - but so did more weeds. </p><p>I tried to keep up with those weeds - really, I did. But eventually, they got the better of me. Little did I know that tilling brings seeds that were too buried in the soil to naturally germinate up to the surface, where they happily begin growing.</p><p>Thankfully, my next try at a garden was a lot more successful - because by then, I'd been introduced to no-till, no-dig methods. ("No-dig" refers to the traditional method of double digging the soil before planting. Basically, it's the manual method of deep tilling. It does <i>not </i>mean the gardener can't dig into the soil to plant - or remove - something.) </p><p>I was attracted to no-till methods for the same reasons I still use them in my garden today: </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">1. It's a lot less work.</span> It doesn't require any type of machine to prep for planting (nor fuel to run that machine), nor does it require difficult manual labor. Over time, it saves a tremendous amount of labor because the soil requires little to no prepping and so little weeding is necessary.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEY71bYAEeFSR5qasS6ibo1QjWfpbPpREeSN1kZfR_wsW6IUNwXmZuaYU1nW41gteNYt_k-97xKCPeFGiUNJ9D9rPIBzYTdXuXjPYeigp4GEYPiT2Ugt-k7lOoW54vMWKhu9eVcVTV2drd4l8REZubLeUPIWIPKn7ahlINLFmUZQBdmjKDCLUjrB05DNI/s2048/first%20no%20till%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEY71bYAEeFSR5qasS6ibo1QjWfpbPpREeSN1kZfR_wsW6IUNwXmZuaYU1nW41gteNYt_k-97xKCPeFGiUNJ9D9rPIBzYTdXuXjPYeigp4GEYPiT2Ugt-k7lOoW54vMWKhu9eVcVTV2drd4l8REZubLeUPIWIPKn7ahlINLFmUZQBdmjKDCLUjrB05DNI/w395-h296/first%20no%20till%20garden.jpg" width="395" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My first no-till garden.</i><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p></p><p></p></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: large;">2. It's better for the soil.</span> In nature, most seeds and roots settle into soil that's largely undisturbed - certainly not deeply tilled or dug. This undisturbed soil is packed with beneficial microorganisms...all of which are disturbed or even killed by deep digging or tilling. <a href="https://insteading.com/blog/mycelium/" target="_blank">Mycelium</a>— the fungal network below ground that helps plants grow - is also damaged by digging and tilling. In addition, no till methods prevent erosion and compaction that makes it difficult for plants to take up nutrients and water. And unlike tilling, which destroys humus (and therefore requires plenty of soil amendments), no-till methods actually help create this important part of the soil.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">3</span><span style="font-size: large;">. Weeds are much less likely to germinate in undisturbed soil. </span>Those weeds that do pop up are generally very easy to pull out by hand, due to the layers of organic matter on top of the soil. Or, if you don't want to bother with such pulling, you can merely smother out the weeds.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">4. Less irrigation is necessary </span>because there are organic layers covering the soil, retaining moisture. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcw6qVckdCtVPLaE9J_T5J-G0OnjBkV5yCGvOq7icOLoeJbfA6UxG5UNDqYamYi57jpsc2umZRJWUsnS3Ta9WDQNYOcmTjtqCLbxqhDKmELWGxBr8VjLfKT7PYkJVH6EQx68zy5QslNX4mXT2oVJ_ge7iMwlCJX6nDYUFepg2Cxb4dtoJDiWs_DHOh6rc/s2048/new%20no%20till%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcw6qVckdCtVPLaE9J_T5J-G0OnjBkV5yCGvOq7icOLoeJbfA6UxG5UNDqYamYi57jpsc2umZRJWUsnS3Ta9WDQNYOcmTjtqCLbxqhDKmELWGxBr8VjLfKT7PYkJVH6EQx68zy5QslNX4mXT2oVJ_ge7iMwlCJX6nDYUFepg2Cxb4dtoJDiWs_DHOh6rc/w399-h399/new%20no%20till%20garden.jpg" width="399" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My current no-till garden.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p>Now, none of this is to say that tilling might not be smart at times. For example, <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" target="_blank">my garden area was originally packed with</a> invasive blackberries. Before establishing the garden, my husband not only mowed everything down, he tilled certain areas so that the most persistent weeds (and their roots) could be removed. However, once those areas were covered with layers of organic matter, tilling was no longer needed - or beneficial.<br /></p><p>And before you start telling me no-till methods are just trendy and not worth trying, let me assure you that variations on the no-till method have been around since at least the 1940s book <i><a href="http://www.journeytoforever.org/farm_library/folly/follyToC.html" target="_blank">Ploughman's Folly</a></i>, which quickly led to studies by Purdue University that came out in support of no-till methods. Other famous proponents of no-till methods include Ruth Stout (who published multiple books written in the 1950s-70s, including <i><a href="https://amzn.to/3tPDcLk" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book</a>), </i>Patricia Lanza (who wrote <i><a href="https://amzn.to/3SgTVk4" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Lasagna Gardening</a></i> in the late 1990s), Paul Gautschi<i> (</i>of <i><a href="https://www.backtoedenfilm.com/" target="_blank">Back to Eden</a> </i>fame<i>), </i>and market gardener Charles Dowding<i> </i>(who's written multiple books, including <i><a href="https://amzn.to/48sVQIb" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Organic Gardening: The Natural, No-Dig Way</a></i>)<i>. </i>And then there's little ol' me, who's been using no-till methods for most of my gardening career.</p><p>The science is there to back up no till claims (you can start researching that <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/no-till-farming" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8801175/" target="_blank">here</a>) - and the productivity and health of no-till gardens certainly shows that the method works.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rJSzUkVT6um-yXkIprJtW1d4huCMWhmd7M_sycShejW9u0R5Yaq1qPrqstaO_wqjGVxBF2S0gvXVVVOW1VEUOINL1SKUJpgu-JZMBQHOjqqU3lh1P98OyFqBqdVsURTGmopyP7x30z3ZeTQjRqweEa0BgcFQXl6lr5NflaukiWOh0cpGgc6dYdXCmE8/s677/Kristina%20with%20cauliflower.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="506" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rJSzUkVT6um-yXkIprJtW1d4huCMWhmd7M_sycShejW9u0R5Yaq1qPrqstaO_wqjGVxBF2S0gvXVVVOW1VEUOINL1SKUJpgu-JZMBQHOjqqU3lh1P98OyFqBqdVsURTGmopyP7x30z3ZeTQjRqweEa0BgcFQXl6lr5NflaukiWOh0cpGgc6dYdXCmE8/s320/Kristina%20with%20cauliflower.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>No-till methods produce big, beautiful produce.</i><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p></p><p></p></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span style="font-size: large;">How to Get Started</span></p><p>The basic principle of all no-till methods are - obviously - to not till or double dig...but how does one achieve that? Various proponents use slightly differing methods. Ruth Stout put hay and sometimes leaves on top of her soil; Paul Cautschi uses wood chips; Charles Dowding uses compost. But truthfully, any organic matter can go on top of the soil to create a good no till garden (as Patricia Lanza hinted at with her layers of organic matter spread like lasagna filling on top of her soil). </p><p>But this organic matter laid on top of the garden isn't just a one time thing. You have to keep covering the soil, for two reasons:</p><p>#1, because the organic matter acts as a mulch to retain moisture in the soil and keep weeds down. </p><p>And #2, because the plants you grow are continually sucking nutrition out of the soil, so you need to add nutrients back into the earth. <br /></p><p>In an established no-till garden, fertilizing is rarely, if ever, necessary. Instead, focus on feeding the soil by, once or twice a year, putting organic matter on top of it, to naturally decompose. This organic matter can be nearly anything you have on hand; <u><b>you do not need to buy anything to have a successful no-till garden.</b></u><br /></p><p>It's highly unlikely you don't have at least some useful organic matter in your own yard, but if perchance you don't, then you can round it up from your neighbors, your municipality, or from local businesses. Look for:</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Vegetable and fruit scraps from your kitchen. </span>(You can compost these in a bin or pile, or you can simply bury them in the garden.)</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Dry leaves. </span>When leaves fall in the autumn, gather them up and pile them onto the garden. It helps if you first run over them with a lawn mower so they decompose faster, but that's not absolutely necessary. You can also turn these leaves into <a href="https://empressofdirt.net/make-leaf-mold/" target="_blank">leaf mold</a> - but again, that little bit of extra work isn't required.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Yard trimmings. </span>Pulling leaves off your Brussels sprouts? Trimming a bush? Removing yellowed leaves from a broccoli plant? Need to get rid of the season's corn stalks? All these trimmings can be laid directly on top of your garden soil.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Grass. </span>When you mow, use the bagger, then spread the grass out thinly. Let it dry a little, so it isn't clumpy, then put it on top of your garden soil.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Wood chips and sawdust. </span>Local arborists often give wood chips away for free; so do mills and municipalities. Sometimes they even deliver!</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Compost. </span>Make yours at home with kitchen scraps and yard trimmings. Use a bin, if you're concerned about pests getting into it or neighbor complaining. Can't afford a compost bin? Use a plastic garbage can with holes drilled all over it. Some municipalities also offer residents free compost made from grass and brush trimmings.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Worm castings.</span> <a href="https://unclejimswormfarm.com/diy-worm-bin/" target="_blank">Worm bins are cheap to create</a> and cost nothing once you establish them. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbzs7zwaKnD1mwqa-sqsPt42CGkjkFaWvvHbMA_bq50PoxZbf3v1mGmS3D6HpXts_Sg91OhvmdLoV23rf5NMHtZCCN7nKxJLraXALdf0wMxMuKBDusB5KcPPjbXC9h6v25Xm4lLpQjg0CWzNjxgGOKHeocXOyzNzLKpsf3dNmSiEIdzAE-cmtDGO_5S0/s2048/early%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1469" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbzs7zwaKnD1mwqa-sqsPt42CGkjkFaWvvHbMA_bq50PoxZbf3v1mGmS3D6HpXts_Sg91OhvmdLoV23rf5NMHtZCCN7nKxJLraXALdf0wMxMuKBDusB5KcPPjbXC9h6v25Xm4lLpQjg0CWzNjxgGOKHeocXOyzNzLKpsf3dNmSiEIdzAE-cmtDGO_5S0/w316-h440/early%20garden.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My no-till garden, early in the spring.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Newspapers.</span> If you still get one that has only black and white ink, these can be laid down directly on the soil, then covered with more organic matter. Or, you can shred them and put them in your compost.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Farm waste.</span> Spent hay or straw from barns can often be had from local hobby farms for free. Just make sure the hay or straw is organic.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Manure. </span>Rabbit, sheep, and goat manure can be applied directly to the garden without composting it. Other livestock manure <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/07/how-to-use-manure-in-garden.html" target="_blank">needs to compost a bit firs</a><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/07/how-to-use-manure-in-garden.html" target="_blank">t</a>. Again, manure can often be had for free from local hobby farms, but I also know gardeners who keep a rabbit or two as pets just so they can use their copious amounts of poop in their gardens.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Cover crops. </span>For just the cost of <a href="https://territorialseed.com/search?q=cover+crop" target="_blank">a seed packet</a>, you can plant something that will prevent soil erosion during the winter, then can be cut down and laid directly onto the soil to feed it.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">* Roots. </span>Instead of pulling out the roots of plants when they are spent, leave them in tact. As they decay, all the good nutrients they pulled from the soil will go back into the earth. (If the roots are in the way of new plants you want to add to the garden, dig them out...then throw them in the compost pile.)<br /></p><p>Some people claim it's just not possible to collect enough organic matter for a large garden. I say, keep asking around. Most people are delighted to give you their fall leaves or grass clippings, for example. I've even seen bags of dry leaves offered up for free on Facebook Marketplace. </p><p><u><b>In addition, there's no law that says you have to cover your entire garden with organic matter all at the same time.</b></u> Instead, apply whatever you have on hand, and make a note of what parts of the garden didn't get covered. Next time you have organic matter on hand, lay it on the portions of the garden that were neglected last time.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRxBRzJqeJX-Jab_nB29EMPHgeWsi2m_BEGCKHBjzmDs5ZIxl49xBCMpYd2mox1ga22SPdmy2nr1XHe75p8HFhSHixlfftDBMeHNvE7VBtohh0_cmaGYtFpXwLvf8XulbJYAqzK7SsI2YmgIGElpLGiZKofaUl2W842oIvE78rGaOKYYSnoL4MUEwyHMM/s2048/newgarden2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRxBRzJqeJX-Jab_nB29EMPHgeWsi2m_BEGCKHBjzmDs5ZIxl49xBCMpYd2mox1ga22SPdmy2nr1XHe75p8HFhSHixlfftDBMeHNvE7VBtohh0_cmaGYtFpXwLvf8XulbJYAqzK7SsI2YmgIGElpLGiZKofaUl2W842oIvE78rGaOKYYSnoL4MUEwyHMM/w363-h363/newgarden2.jpg" width="363" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Planting out the garden in early spring.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">So, How Do I Plant?</span></p><p>A lot of people are confused about how to sow seeds or plant seedlings in no-till gardens....because they are taking the "no dig" name a little too literally.<br /></p><p>To direct sow seeds, you can either insert your finger into the soil to create a hole for larger seeds that are more deeply sown, or you can use your finger to create a small furrow in the soil to plant smaller seeds into. In either case, once the seeds are at the correct depth, just use your hands (or a hoe) to cover them up with soil. (Be sure to tamp down the soil firmly, so the seeds have good contact with it.)<br /></p><p>For plants, use a shovel, spade, or your hand to dig a hole of the appropriate size. You don't need to dig a large hole to "loosen the soil." Just dig it big enough that you can spread the roots out as needed. (Remember that over-digging actually harms the natural life in the soil.) Plop the plant in the hole, and push soil around it, making sure to to press down a bit so that any air pockets in the soil disappear.<br /></p><p>Remember, the no-till, no-dig method is meant to minimize damage to the soil, but <i>it doesn't</i> mean you can't dig holes for planting.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">How to Convert Your Garden to No Till<br /></span></p><p>To convert your garden to this method, start by smothering the weeds. Mow or weed whack them low to the ground. If you have difficult-to-get-rid of weeds, dig them out or till lightly and pull them out, getting as much of their roots as possible. If this sounds like a lot of work...it can be. But remember that this is a one-time deal!</p><p>As long as the weeds or grass haven't gone to seed, there's no need to haul them off somewhere. Let them sit right where they fell. As they rot, they will feed the soil.<br /></p><p>Now lay down something that will block light from the weeds and grass. I recommend corrugated cardboard, in double layers, overlapping. The cardboard should have no printing on it, or should have only black ink markings. Do <i>not </i>use cardboard that is slick, has colored ink, or is bleached any color, including white, because non-organic chemicals are used on such cardboard. If you prefer, you may also use multiple layers of newspapers instead of cardboard, but be sure to use black and white, non-slick pages only. </p><p>To find enough cardboard for your garden, look in local Facebook groups for people giving away moving boxes, or contact local businesses (especially appliance and furniture stores) to ask for whatever they have. You can also put an ISO ("in search of") post in local Facebook groups.<br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7oZG4aeLmvk6dk-85Vp8VjF51e9ZWu_qFpGOZK1S-Rc4X0vX2y95ZgELUQaNKqjGEh6bP9cH_ljEZ64RQ-t0bqOdwdEh-QFhUN8mPf0KLWNi2KWlLuXFi2_Ei4fbJ0HG7Vxc-stikvjfxcFNN-O4cTLAwHHnJYY6A3Q6-gUl5YNfVz2IwS6mH3n0_iPM/s960/adding%20to%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="960" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7oZG4aeLmvk6dk-85Vp8VjF51e9ZWu_qFpGOZK1S-Rc4X0vX2y95ZgELUQaNKqjGEh6bP9cH_ljEZ64RQ-t0bqOdwdEh-QFhUN8mPf0KLWNi2KWlLuXFi2_Ei4fbJ0HG7Vxc-stikvjfxcFNN-O4cTLAwHHnJYY6A3Q6-gUl5YNfVz2IwS6mH3n0_iPM/w402-h226/adding%20to%20garden.jpg" width="402" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Adding a new section to my garden by laying down cardboard</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p>Some people are concerned that cardboard isn't organic because they've read that pesticides are sprayed on them (which has been debunked by multiple sources) or that the glue that's used to hold them together is not organic. There may be variations from country to country, but the <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">USDA’s National Organic Program
allows for the use of brown cardboard with black lettering on it. In addition, The ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture
Program has done research into the different chemicals used in making
cardboard, including those used for coatings, inks, and glue. They found that
brown corrugated cardboard is the least processed and is benign in the garden. (Brown cardboard is simply recycled paper to which natural starch has been added, that is then pressed into shape.)</span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Assuming you're using upcycled cardboard, be sure to remove all labels and tape (which may contain plastic), as well as any staples, before you lay it down in the garden. </span>
</p><p>Once your smothering material is laid down and watered, cover it with more organic material. There are lots of ways to go about this. If you have the money, and you want an instantly great garden, you can buy good organic garden soil in bulk and lay it over the cardboard. Tada! All done.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqFZK6goDEbelf5us69rVxhuTnwvlCQR1QXr81tN6PExoTmskyViFaToj2kIKvCmHRNtuJ6hi8OTjCng-Vh1mgRCuAEKAGIxxzzMRkuq3plLjp9bDDo5twaIWx6fSxjefavMAwp4e9zFlc2M1jhe74Xv5_jqrHbSN7GrO89rV1McaQWdU_4wZn3nHe9ZI/s2048/newgardenbeds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="349" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqFZK6goDEbelf5us69rVxhuTnwvlCQR1QXr81tN6PExoTmskyViFaToj2kIKvCmHRNtuJ6hi8OTjCng-Vh1mgRCuAEKAGIxxzzMRkuq3plLjp9bDDo5twaIWx6fSxjefavMAwp4e9zFlc2M1jhe74Xv5_jqrHbSN7GrO89rV1McaQWdU_4wZn3nHe9ZI/w349-h349/newgardenbeds.jpg" width="349" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>New garden beds made by laying down cardboard, mulch, and compost or soil</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p>But you can also lay other organic matter on top, as long as it completely covers the cardboard with at least 4 inches. (The cardboard will decompose rather quickly, allowing plant roots through, if needed.) If you don't have enough homemade compost to lay on top of the cardboard, try lasagna gardening (also called "sheet mulching"). The trick here is to alternate layers of carbon-rich materials (or "browns," as they are
often called in composting; these include dry leaves, straw, hay, and sawdust) with nitrogen-rich materials (or "greens," like grass clippings, produce scraps, garden trimmings, weeds, and manure). The brown layers should be about twice as thick as the green layers and the finished lasagna should be about two feet tall. (It will shrink down in just a couple of weeks.)<br /></p><p>Now cover your pathways with cardboard and organic matter like wood chips or straw. </p><p>Your no till garden is now ready for planting!<br /></p><p>To see how I created my current garden <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" target="_blank">using these no till methods, click here</a>.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiz7A6Ma1LBBq7R4FmjCvZdMF28CBOXUN52HgE40lAau-rW9awzMYWsFkrzBm9UpWbKayQw-6eiNpWRYxTgGCsSqhrNyXZv-IXQ61htnhYj1z5fVejAsyVQagfbugD8IIlsIq1wAETep7xsfIhMqsAlzV79jTBiLcQzDLOnYhWBotGW2pcwT0L5WWxjk/s2048/garden3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBiz7A6Ma1LBBq7R4FmjCvZdMF28CBOXUN52HgE40lAau-rW9awzMYWsFkrzBm9UpWbKayQw-6eiNpWRYxTgGCsSqhrNyXZv-IXQ61htnhYj1z5fVejAsyVQagfbugD8IIlsIq1wAETep7xsfIhMqsAlzV79jTBiLcQzDLOnYhWBotGW2pcwT0L5WWxjk/w400-h400/garden3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Later in the year...<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">What if My Native Soil Is Lousy?</span></p><p>No-till methods are <i>perfect </i>for gardeners who have naturally lousy soil on their property. Our homestead has heavy red clay soil that almost nothing but weeds thrives in. But using no-till methods allows me to grow a highly productive garden.</p><p>It really doesn't matter if your soil is clay, sand, hard-packed, or full of rocks. With this method, you create new, better soil <i>on top</i> of whatever is native. (If you have large rocks in your soil, I'd remove them first, but if the rocks are smaller, just add lots of organic matter on top!)<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Maintaining a No Till Garden</span></p><p>Very little maintained is required in a no-till garden, aside from continuing to layer organic matter on top of the soil once or twice a year. However, should some weeds pop up, you can either hand pull them (most will come up easily), or you can choose to re-smother them. To mother, simply lay more cardboard on top of them, then cover that with organic matter. <u><b>The benefit of this latter method is that as the weeds die, they actually put fresh nutrients into the soil.</b></u></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Jhl-QZepdC3uhYLvBbhjGMCdT8313MSrTnIxFewUwEXLwPLvQcnwauqmLue9ysGasfvMutSytPQqZxntLXHCY-mtdkFJUpRgaqARvmNhBg157VjosCChJ6MYxxVNYrHWnRNs-moO5w2cBE_SA-C9QogX1lkALSftRJVjFLe2jbFiZPtjoENRrhz2Cj8/s363/cabbage.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="363" data-original-width="363" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Jhl-QZepdC3uhYLvBbhjGMCdT8313MSrTnIxFewUwEXLwPLvQcnwauqmLue9ysGasfvMutSytPQqZxntLXHCY-mtdkFJUpRgaqARvmNhBg157VjosCChJ6MYxxVNYrHWnRNs-moO5w2cBE_SA-C9QogX1lkALSftRJVjFLe2jbFiZPtjoENRrhz2Cj8/w370-h370/cabbage.jpg" width="370" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>No-till gardens are beautiful and require much less work!<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Articles:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/02/how-to-winter-sow-seeds-video.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="230" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX-tGA97G18UP-mjmOOE1WiLcwM2lHVCakPKGRzxe2FAOI1q4SK52Z7tAIyGYx8pOs7dhAf9EnAF7S3mDtRvpNSivHTQ4_k_nf0bEUUaVK25fN7nwqEMnwY_6-T2oHKzMBKQuZmzyKZETYK6a0dWiws1Nx1tGwefzGqKMzrU51zGTb-2qAz2T802hKypA/s1600/How-To-Winter-Sow-Seeds.jpg" width="230" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> </span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/12/tips-for-planning-vegetable-garden.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="461" data-original-width="307" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTLg9pwBnb4kcP_DD1Sdhxi6s58oHxhqvTDvuDKvJ2qvcEyYaF4wLj4CY72ZIVJcM75G-qL8meTP_960ADCL5AtSwZgl1LECqhEkXaO1DBVvVUL2OJE9pmwCn9qjiA8d1VsO5dqRuhtLJ8CEIcZw_llYoOvX5x-G9NwQ9eU-uxx_nyW_5DYaH1vwv8sWs/s320/Tips-for-planning-a-vegetable-garden.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/01/6-common-seed-starting-mistakes-and-how.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0y0MuEZXyTXudv1xR1UrPY2ZzuDQRXK1XJ72Wx8cT-344zogMJccl9jY7HJpyklkl_tOgVUZQwQpcuQ5u0khCYU9EliVh5m83GtXc0VSFajGCasl3wOa32V35w764ETpqudgrSQMNPtiCTZoeGeP2oINJ6o-bVX5KDwO0gCcaOAvmzVvgiETkDkT1kM/s320/6-Common-Seed-Starting-Mistakes.png" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2019/03/how-to-test-garden-soil.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="323" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVZEauoX7ngqNtqfoDfoARWwiiorY0CBfpGROngSTVHG2gryOFUvDkCRon0e02PC_M05f4ZxCNmsuKJxh-PS3yH0WDMh9GEmQhAtx0WOgQeT7jA91lL8y7HFCoqGnrWsJcJJeSNLqzomQ48E_vWAXJHO2p4GZV6_LJUc-X6R3qc6AFoTMMGMFqObEWLMA/s320/how-to-test-garden-soil.jpg" width="258" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p> <br /></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-63566647802013775042024-01-16T13:14:00.000-08:002024-01-16T13:14:20.533-08:00Caring for Rabbits in Cold Weather<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZmkaBaJk3yVOynDOMlzYo7QWuZ1PCUWj4s7Ah0cOBcepGpuYcGDOim5UT5iV-57vxeOWXNtTySLJJfLX8gkvlcSgaScsge1IQc5J24xpIekSxUa4Pk4D8p4LcfJyuOVqfk0PDx_V_tuZymJ6vd4MAKSyRSjaY56DktnuEqtTsVEjbVks8pwM0siXKvI/s1500/Caring-For-Rabbits-in-Cold-Weather.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Caring for Rabbits in Cold Weather" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZmkaBaJk3yVOynDOMlzYo7QWuZ1PCUWj4s7Ah0cOBcepGpuYcGDOim5UT5iV-57vxeOWXNtTySLJJfLX8gkvlcSgaScsge1IQc5J24xpIekSxUa4Pk4D8p4LcfJyuOVqfk0PDx_V_tuZymJ6vd4MAKSyRSjaY56DktnuEqtTsVEjbVks8pwM0siXKvI/w321-h482/Caring-For-Rabbits-in-Cold-Weather.jpg" title="Rabbit Husbandry in Cold Temperatures" width="321" /></a></i></div><i><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p>One of the reasons I love raising rabbits is that they are easy keepers. But as winter temperatures in the U.S. are plummeting, many people are wondering if they should be doing anything special to care for their rabbits. The answer? Maybe.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Good Housing is Vital</span></p><p>Thankfully, rabbits do well in very cold weather - but the difference between rabbits who sail through winter and those who develop frostbite or hypothermia is good housing. <i><b><u>Wherever you house your rabbits must be dry and sheltered from the wind.</u></b></i> </p><p>It's often tempting to simply drape tarps over your rabbit cages, but this is rarely adequate. For one thing, rabbits chew on tarps, leaving holes behind that expose them to the weather. For another, it's difficult to keep tarps tight against cages so your rabbits are truly protected from the elements. Also, you may <i>think </i>your tarps are well secured (and indeed, they may be well secured for years), only to discover one horrible morning that your tarps have blown away. (That happened to me this winter; thankfully, the affected cages were empty.)<br /></p><p>While rabbits do have thick coats to insulate them against the cold, they are sensitive to drafts and can go into hypothermia if cool or cold water reaches their skin.
Therefore, it's best to have a structure over your rabbit cages or colony setup. In addition to a roof with deep overhangs, it should have at least three walls and be large enough that none of the rabbits are unduly exposed to the weather. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Food and Water Concerns</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFMlwqAxDI61YXW3mCvLmEHdWNEcSC4IUdJgetOX15oKktsmbzBEcmsRb1Lbf4B_I0uRmpZrmRtBuUX5jLTwTQYviX6VICsQiOZGHbujb6aa0gAHF-VC76NjZRUhn-T1FlLvzAivAgnTHRxezuLArMt3W7laTf3YMDsldZINoB4Qn4ttjQvBZTa-XuX4E/s2048/Rabbit%20Food.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1298" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFMlwqAxDI61YXW3mCvLmEHdWNEcSC4IUdJgetOX15oKktsmbzBEcmsRb1Lbf4B_I0uRmpZrmRtBuUX5jLTwTQYviX6VICsQiOZGHbujb6aa0gAHF-VC76NjZRUhn-T1FlLvzAivAgnTHRxezuLArMt3W7laTf3YMDsldZINoB4Qn4ttjQvBZTa-XuX4E/w269-h424/Rabbit%20Food.jpg" width="269" /></a></span></div> <p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p>Since rabbits dehydrate quickly, when temperatures plummet, it's also vital to keep your rabbits' water supply from freezing. If you use <a href="https://amzn.to/3SlfrEm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">standard ball-type rabbit waterers</a>, check their function <i>every single day</i> (at least once a day and maybe more frequently) by using your finger to extract water from the tip. In cold weather, the metal tube that rabbits drink from will freeze long before the plastic bottle part does. </p><p>One way to deal with this problem is to have multiple waterers on standby; keep them in a location where they won't freeze and simply switch out any frozen waterers with fresh ones, as often as needed. (Remember to switch out the entire waterer, not just the bottle, since the metal tubes are most sensitive to freezing.) I've also seen homesteaders wrap bottles in wool socks, a bit of bubble wrap, or bubble foil aluminum insulation. Some people choose to use <a href="https://amzn.to/422OjNR" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">heated bottles</a>, but they require great caution around rabbits; if the animals chew the electrical wires, the bottles can become a fire hazard. </p><p>Another option is to switch to <a href="https://www.jefferspet.com/pet-bowl-2qt/p" target="_blank">rubber bowls</a> or water crocks. (Crocks with wide-mouthed bottles are slower to freeze.) Ideally, these crocks are kept off the floor so that rabbits don't step in them and get chilled. You will have to check the water several times a day as long as freezing temperatures persist. </p><p>Think about feed, as well. As temperatures drop, rabbits instinctively eat more because they are burning additional calories to stay warm. Therefore, winter is a good time to free-feed your rabbits, or at least increase their daily ration.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Bedding</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuj4rU8b7H5It4x7pe3-fxaBPLWuvdw3fKAvp_2bxYwJFYsACh06mHeFnzyxJFu1VT9DjMml0gI17AG6XG6vE6IOcxdLKRc6Iacg9mqHCUKCl0KwkfWRlDlUPPffZ7N64WkyXg6wRmFpA7mBBPx83mfUAreWvfQkG1butm_s83JP2MdN5nmloiMINE8A/s1440/Rabbit%20Nest.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuj4rU8b7H5It4x7pe3-fxaBPLWuvdw3fKAvp_2bxYwJFYsACh06mHeFnzyxJFu1VT9DjMml0gI17AG6XG6vE6IOcxdLKRc6Iacg9mqHCUKCl0KwkfWRlDlUPPffZ7N64WkyXg6wRmFpA7mBBPx83mfUAreWvfQkG1butm_s83JP2MdN5nmloiMINE8A/s320/Rabbit%20Nest.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p>If temperatures drop to 15 degrees F. or less, I recommend giving each rabbits a wood or cardboard box filled with straw. Some people prefer plastic boxes, but since rabbits tend to chew on everything and since I can't imagine that ingesting plastic is healthy, I recommend avoiding this. Wood or cardboard is warmer, anyway.<br /></p><p></p><p>Some people are tempted to use other types of bedding, such as hay, shredded paper, or wood shavings, but these are less insulating than straw. Whatever you choose, however, be sure to check the box daily; if the box or the bedding becomes wet, it must be removed and replaced right away. If your rabbits defecate in the box, you'll need to clean up after that, too. </p><p>Pet rabbit folks will tell you that temperatures this low require bringing rabbits inside, but the truth is that if proper housing and bedding are supplied, rabbits do just fine in very cold temperatures. However, if you choose to bring your rabbits inside during cold weather, <i>it's vital to make sure the temperature change they experience isn't radical.</i> Even a 15 or 20-degree change in temperature can put rabbits into physical distress, with death a very real possibility. </p><p>One thing both farmers and pet rabbit experts agree on, however: <b><i><u>never use a heating pad or heat lamp</u></i></b>. Not only are both unnecessary, but they often cause horrific burn injuries to rabbits and can even lead to overheating and death. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Rabbit Kits</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPITjGeDZ7_z3RdhHUU9YYg1BhNSJxU6tJGL9EQ_zhf43qQRfMq3cYbZf4uZtHxPSP6mq1t5T5mAUvy3IQ14_CSLbNIPQyHpxqLDHekBJFU0erH7DuxGPvR62Zbrx0kDszAsi-c8cRyb7z_O-nWbQPnD3wJzl_dKB4RtsbFxTllWDY8nFDm4aGTfqU1w/s4032/RabbitKitsInNest.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPITjGeDZ7_z3RdhHUU9YYg1BhNSJxU6tJGL9EQ_zhf43qQRfMq3cYbZf4uZtHxPSP6mq1t5T5mAUvy3IQ14_CSLbNIPQyHpxqLDHekBJFU0erH7DuxGPvR62Zbrx0kDszAsi-c8cRyb7z_O-nWbQPnD3wJzl_dKB4RtsbFxTllWDY8nFDm4aGTfqU1w/w400-h300/RabbitKitsInNest.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>Some homesteaders ask if they should avoid mating rabbits in winter, for fear the kits won't survive. But as long as mother rabbits prepare good nests, in most cases, cold weather shouldn't be an issue. I've talked with homesteaders who regularly have -15 degree F. weather in the winter, and all their rabbits - including kits - do just fine outside.
One important thing to note, however, is that while you may prefer <a href="https://amzn.to/3HjTRJY" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">metal nesting boxes</a> because they are easier to clean and don't get chewed on, if temperatures are cold, you should use wood nesting boxes - or even cardboard boxes - which are considerably warmer than metal. </p><p>Give the mother rabbit plenty of fresh straw (not hay) to build her nest and consider putting a layer or two of cardboard in the bottom of the box for extra insulation. As long as the mother pulls plenty of her own fur for the nest and the babies aren't born outside the nesting box, the kits will not be too cold.
If you get surprised with suddenly low temperatures, you may wish to bring the kits and their mother into a warmer building. Just be sure that they don't experience big temperature swings, because just like adult rabbits, kits don't quickly adjust to temperature swings. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDwkqo_am8hqQW0oEMiQcFRu2xtFGmUqfCQixvcyoUm8l9C0t-PYIvUWSEw-0KlV4dM3_Rth_cfGtQrUCI-Kge8VckCG4pRoq-HgD8GwvUcMU9Js6u3YC0EVo0s-x3nSzt98Nsv2XnEvNgnj8E6jMIb566FsXIMjVNWNI31T3QnrmLgMD286omkQ7Uuk/s2048/RabbitsInARow.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="2048" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDwkqo_am8hqQW0oEMiQcFRu2xtFGmUqfCQixvcyoUm8l9C0t-PYIvUWSEw-0KlV4dM3_Rth_cfGtQrUCI-Kge8VckCG4pRoq-HgD8GwvUcMU9Js6u3YC0EVo0s-x3nSzt98Nsv2XnEvNgnj8E6jMIb566FsXIMjVNWNI31T3QnrmLgMD286omkQ7Uuk/w461-h265/RabbitsInARow.jpg" width="461" /></a></div><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span> <br /></p><p></p><p></p><span style="font-size: large;"> <!--top articles--><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-6951681679104154" data-ad-slot="9739713372" style="display: inline-block; height: 280px; width: 336px;"></ins></span>
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</script><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/02/why-raise-rabbits-for-meat.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="495" data-original-width="330" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvMz3rA9OogGdYSC-sKHIrqigx5q37Psf_adK0mVFzHaa-Zg6sarJPjJ-nguusgpNlddAE9qxtJaJ1EehOtGNaWEuxjrVBkdItPNBpb_2mQNM3wDcyC0fc7NkAKzNFAj_3QrOlqGWQNhHDQXMPetAznwgNUJM-KseD3h-15_jGyXM4XzFDIO1Cc4ol678/s320/Why-Raise-Rabbits-For-Meat.jpg" width="213" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/06/preventing-livestock-feed-waste-on.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="449" data-original-width="299" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOifiFv8i0TbFPCPkz1YRq5Ab0BmS7YccbqpbXanUF6Tejr4GVzfwPqRlk61oQS1uAFBFV740yqRKrPlLLbRxKPXWVIWG3ED5sBTbmebUne-3cpcHM60VjU-nH1Q9pQF1pErx13iJYGyY82Jv7MQuy18aUNrsxr91VPFYyhuJmP3xkGncGem27gtieRgg/s320/Preventing_Livestock_Feed_Waste_on_the_Homestead.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/08/why-bunny-manure-is-best-fertilizer-ever.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ZnY03M9JVoFAvvDyRe3QVJDZt_3dJxk6zdPAG_LBniXM8pV3tsYt0zZXbPb4dSV4k6VMwh-u_qcGPnlX5OOokFMBXkp-4xLjtHKpFnQzx2UA823X7v9IJKFB95yqo5YgKdXfKxcZKS1AQKvh9TxZZfWpSG1ajMsR6bm1ZnLnZYz2HK546FpleoMrKcI/s320/Why-Rabbit-Manure-is-the-Best-Fertilizer-Ever.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2021/06/raising-meat-when-you-dont-have-acerage.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fvO9IQWglQoIOfM0XAccNc7PXSPuG6HnHGZUULRLeIThwhPSJk47g0HqBLw-m7sZ3_7KNTb0Ny0vZapTr1-x4-iQl1j4PX568RqfH5BjYn_Nv6WPUr291_abiRqdFQNQmtywGpkmTqBcJ2SlvqNpjOY3t_i5QP8urQf6E1iZqRKX4S79cuMG-F_YuB4/s320/Raising-Meat-When-You-Dont-Have-Acreage.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-51712868806718261792023-12-14T10:42:00.000-08:002024-02-14T11:17:37.213-08:00Tips for Planning a Vegetable Garden<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoNBX9iYaOHe-BNC976lf9lRIRklmKoHFf5x1-LXkPyh0tnMDuBdMx65iZXX1zIxF0rUq2b2MovMH0nSJ-wb24yaZp0_R-bGNF6jGDOYiXGUuHpCqTIfAOb5ug0rEqBxs5-N3NmZ2_7XQo04500MOmHI2Cs4qVl-xf-ym7iukkmsotsUc8QK2GkKcKi0/s1500/Tips-for-planning-a-vegetable-garden.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="461" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoNBX9iYaOHe-BNC976lf9lRIRklmKoHFf5x1-LXkPyh0tnMDuBdMx65iZXX1zIxF0rUq2b2MovMH0nSJ-wb24yaZp0_R-bGNF6jGDOYiXGUuHpCqTIfAOb5ug0rEqBxs5-N3NmZ2_7XQo04500MOmHI2Cs4qVl-xf-ym7iukkmsotsUc8QK2GkKcKi0/w307-h461/Tips-for-planning-a-vegetable-garden.jpg" width="307" /></a></div>There are few things I enjoy more than snuggling up next to the woodstove with a cup of (decaff) coffee, my favorite seed catalogs, and my garden planning notebook. Winter is the best time to plan out the vegetable garden! If you're like me and struggle a bit when it comes to organizing, that's okay. You can still plan a great garden; just follow these seven tips. By the time the spring sun is shining and you're itching to get into the garden, you'll have a well thought out plan to ensure your next garden is the best you've had yet.
So grab a notebook and pencil, and let's get started! <p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tip #1: Assess </span></p><p>I'm sure I'll take flak for quoting Bill Gates, but at least in this one thing, he is correct: "It's fine to celebrate success, but it is more important to heed the lessons of failure." In gardening, we must grab onto those glorious successes - like the cucumbers that produced like mad and the Brussels sprouts that were spared aphid infestation. But we should also carefully consider how we can learn from failures - like the cabbage heads that never grew bigger than a baseball. So begin the process of planning next year's garden by asking yourself: What did well the last growing season...and what did not? </p><p>Here are some examples of the sort of thing I recommend asking yourself: </p><p>* Did you fail to grow enough tomatoes to stock up your pantry for winter? Then now is the time to think about how many more tomato plants you'll need to plant next year. </p><p>* Did a certain variety of carrot not get very big? Next year, try a different variety that might grow better in your area. </p><p>* Did the spinach bolt (go to seed) early in the season? Try it in a shadier spot next year and look for a variety known for being bolt-resistant. (Weather that fluctuates from cool to warmer tends to cause plants to bolt, so think about your spring and fall weather. Weather-wise, if your fall tends to be more stable than your spring, for example, try growing veggies that tend to bolt in your fall garden. <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/07/how-to-start-fall-garden-in-july.html" target="_blank">Read up on proper fall garden timing here</a>.)<br /></p><p>* Did the vine borers get your squash? Perhaps next year, you could try growing a variety that produces early, before the pests can destroy your plants. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJTiQHBUKZ95THCjQQiqFMa_zY0L1cSlovIPpiCQvGcw69f3of98Ns_cWAHSFhYejghmtYyiffCuggjVn7GGWO6M7PCwR8GeO9ShWX7gBu2PQtI8FPqPvOqTeFYrtxXJytTTHIwkvIaY1Ricp_KYkV5zEwaIdi3le8OyjoAiFZ_lZ78Yvb7HATii7t50/s961/growing%20tomatoes.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="961" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJTiQHBUKZ95THCjQQiqFMa_zY0L1cSlovIPpiCQvGcw69f3of98Ns_cWAHSFhYejghmtYyiffCuggjVn7GGWO6M7PCwR8GeO9ShWX7gBu2PQtI8FPqPvOqTeFYrtxXJytTTHIwkvIaY1Ricp_KYkV5zEwaIdi3le8OyjoAiFZ_lZ78Yvb7HATii7t50/w366-h318/growing%20tomatoes.JPG" width="366" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>What do you actually eat? Do you need to grow more or less of it this year?</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tip #2: Select Seeds</span></p><p>This is the fun part, right? But if you just ogle seed catalogs and buy without a plan, you're setting yourself up for a less than great garden. Instead, consider: </p><p>* What veggies do you regularly eat? This is what you should grow!<br /></p><p>* How many plants of each type do you want to have? </p><p>* Do you already have plenty of seeds for the things you want to grow? (Don't rely on your memory; take a peek at your actual seed supply. Is it sufficient?) </p><p>If you decide you need to buy seeds, make a specific list of what you want...<i>then </i>hit the seed catalogs. These days, most seed supply companies have online catalogs, which is terrific if you're in the midst of planning your garden but the seed catalogs aren't out yet. Read the seed descriptions carefully, looking for plants that will thrive in your location. For example, I live where it's temperate and generally not very hot. I grow a lot of things that do well in Alaska, Russia, and Great Britain. If I select seeds that are better suited to the hot, humid south, I won't have a productive garden. </p><p>Also pay attention to how long it takes each variety to mature. I tend to choose seeds that have the shortest growing time I can find because they ensure I get the most from my garden. If I grow a lot of things that take months to mature, the harvest is naturally smaller. </p><p>Like many gardeners, I do like to try one or two new varieties each year, just in case I can find something better than my old standbys, but DANGER ALERT! Reign yourself in! You only have so much gardening space. Sure, some things are just plain fun to grow, but if being more self-sufficient is your aim, you'll want to ensure most of your garden space, time, and money go into staples. </p><p>Another important consideration is whether or not your seeds are hybrid or heirloom. If seed saving is your aim, buy only (or mostly) heirlooms. (Also, don't fall into the trap of thinking that hybrids and GMOs are the same thing. They are not. Thankfully, there are no GMO seeds available to consumers...although Baker Creek Seed claims that when testing corn seed, they've found seed crossed with GMO corn. Therefore, you may want to buy your corn from them, since they are the only seed supplier I'm aware of that tests their seeds this way. <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/03/why-you-shouldnt-worry-about-gmo-seeds.html" target="_blank">Learn more about GMOs and garden seeds here</a>.) </p><p><b>EDIT 2/14/24: </b>I'm sorry to say that <a href="https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2024/02/06/1228868005/purple-tomato-gmo-gardeners" target="_blank">there is now one tomato being sold to home gardeners that <i>is </i>GMO</a>.
It is called The Purple Tomato and was developed by (and is currently
only sold by) Norfolk Healthy Produce. Although this tomato might seem
tame compared to some GMO crops, it still unnaturally combines
Snapdragon flower DNA with tomato DNA. In nature, this could never
happen.<i> </i>The big concern here is that if The Purple Tomato pollen
mixes with a traditional tomato's pollen (which can happen via the wind,
insects, or other pollinators), it could cross-pollinate and create a
whole new plant that would no longer give "pure" seed. <br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpT1KPP7huUpQtoG-ULB1OIviafjQQhdyXQZXDwpZnbfrM9gigRULUI2BNw-BsCGxMQeFLUyHYHKw7oKIDob9SNVNCoq2jHUwMbtYWvUt63931Jr0lKD5NSTAFDVNITVnP1y4pd0VaqLaxVdYDgrELmJTIRbESrDVcKfqRtLwdyyDeXeeRjKWiqg3zbRQ/s720/kohlrabi.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="528" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpT1KPP7huUpQtoG-ULB1OIviafjQQhdyXQZXDwpZnbfrM9gigRULUI2BNw-BsCGxMQeFLUyHYHKw7oKIDob9SNVNCoq2jHUwMbtYWvUt63931Jr0lKD5NSTAFDVNITVnP1y4pd0VaqLaxVdYDgrELmJTIRbESrDVcKfqRtLwdyyDeXeeRjKWiqg3zbRQ/w302-h410/kohlrabi.jpg" width="302" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Kohlrabi is fun to grow and yummy to eat, but I grow little of it, because we just don't use it much.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tip #3: Consider Your Garden Spot </span></p><p>Now's the time to get in touch with your inner critic and get really persnickety about your garden location. What specific problems did you encounter last growing season and how can you address them next year? If, for example, the soil didn't drain well, perhaps you should put in raised beds this year. Or if the garden bed wasn't sunny enough, now's a good time to trim some trees or relocate the garden. If pests have been an issue, plan now for what you can do to deter them. Maybe this should be the year you put up deer fencing, for example. </p><p>If you were pleased with your garden location last growing season, consider whether or not you should expand in the coming year. By how much? And what will you put in the expanded area?
If you need a new garden location, watch potential spots carefully. Winter can be a good time to assess soil drainage and whether or not the garden spot is in a cold or warm micro-climate, but remember that the sun's location will be higher in the sky during the warmer months. </p><p>And while you're thinking about your garden spot, don't forget that a traditional garden bed isn't required for growing food. I've grown food in window boxes, mow strips, old bathtubs, culvert pipes, flower beds, buckets, and of course, flower pots. Others have used old gutters, tires, potato sacks, and chests of drawers. Use your imagination! </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKg9tkf9F3D9kUG7jmUNx1S4BJPv6Q3bTd_7cSF-DjFG3Cyh3TtCjxseTT6hjk50ferZe4GI3QrhUBWTZ5s0fRm61wfBQGVxo2fiaOlQh56LpifMr6YvVzHvhDWabA_99LC9d0O5cj2w-01zsu6u1EAovySfvYjQivv-jgC90o5wH1a2Oexns7MuNSO0/s960/cabbages%20growing%20in%20window%20planter.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKg9tkf9F3D9kUG7jmUNx1S4BJPv6Q3bTd_7cSF-DjFG3Cyh3TtCjxseTT6hjk50ferZe4GI3QrhUBWTZ5s0fRm61wfBQGVxo2fiaOlQh56LpifMr6YvVzHvhDWabA_99LC9d0O5cj2w-01zsu6u1EAovySfvYjQivv-jgC90o5wH1a2Oexns7MuNSO0/w305-h407/cabbages%20growing%20in%20window%20planter.jpg" width="305" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cabbages growing in a front window planter.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tip #4: Amend </span></p><p>The key to a prolific, healthy garden is organic matter...and lots of it. Winter can be a good time to add organic matter to the garden (as long as there isn't lots of snow). Consider adding leaves, organic straw, grass clippings, compost, manure...(<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/07/how-to-use-manure-in-garden.html" target="_blank">Read this post for important information on using manure in the garde</a>n.)<br /></p><p>Also, if you didn't test your soil in the fall, definitely do that now, weather permitting. (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/07/how-to-use-manure-in-garden.html" target="_blank">Learn how here.</a>) Certain soil amendments take months to really do their job, so applying them in winter is better than applying them in spring. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0LUfImSIPQ8mEYx94IX_xRqvJTx-2rKCAdVSwOWLRqKYwwAvCXP9hynih761CcIiTGl46q0SU5nSbN6AnsefKB5ZwNc_TgjKdZLXn3XRpsWik_FsUo0CUaWR5RBGKa_unhZ_QOr1YtEbYPkNJKbWxXkiU9Bdu1sP2ccieskD8Rs1wUWumzsUuQAv56Q/s2048/growing%20onions.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="2048" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0LUfImSIPQ8mEYx94IX_xRqvJTx-2rKCAdVSwOWLRqKYwwAvCXP9hynih761CcIiTGl46q0SU5nSbN6AnsefKB5ZwNc_TgjKdZLXn3XRpsWik_FsUo0CUaWR5RBGKa_unhZ_QOr1YtEbYPkNJKbWxXkiU9Bdu1sP2ccieskD8Rs1wUWumzsUuQAv56Q/w431-h214/growing%20onions.jpg" width="431" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>To get great veggies, you have to feed your soil organic matter.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tip #5: Map it Out </span></p><p>Even if you aren't artistic, it's important to sketch out your proposed garden. (Or, if you prefer, use an electronic program to make a fancy garden map.) Consider: Will you have room to grow everything you have in mind? (Check seed packets or descriptions for how close together plants should be.) Will the corn and sunflowers block sun from the tomatoes? (If so, perhaps plant things like lettuce and spinach, which don't mind shade, in that spot...or move the tall plants to a location where they won't shade anything.) </p><p>While you're doing this, bear in mind where you planted things last year. To reduce pests and disease, crop rotation is very helpful. This means you don't put plants from the same family in the same location as last year. (Ideally, your crop rotation cycle should last four years, since that's how long it takes for most soil-borne diseases and pests to reduce to harmless levels.) </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhraMfvU0u34wm4UePiMyes0ueFerQbk90z_pkfCHZQCyEADaYOjlgXAiaT81NVijVnvLOxcP110UvzEAE6Z7oq9rZ0dsRALz0DwrSt6841W0SJM8Gqxlf6p6nzRnQCaydNGr-dNxsoow2SLiqOoYtkybjkwGy_6raUpi7Zl0M2TWmhgpgNx2LS8ZdbGVI/s2048/garden%20plan.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1982" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhraMfvU0u34wm4UePiMyes0ueFerQbk90z_pkfCHZQCyEADaYOjlgXAiaT81NVijVnvLOxcP110UvzEAE6Z7oq9rZ0dsRALz0DwrSt6841W0SJM8Gqxlf6p6nzRnQCaydNGr-dNxsoow2SLiqOoYtkybjkwGy_6raUpi7Zl0M2TWmhgpgNx2LS8ZdbGVI/w355-h366/garden%20plan.jpg" width="355" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Map out your garden, even if your method is very simple.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tip #6: Prepping </span></p><p>As many of us learned during the shutdowns a few years ago, gardening supplies can run out quickly. Even before a pandemic was declared, I sometimes had difficulties finding certain gardening supplies in stock at local stores once spring arrived. While I try to avoid buying any products for my garden, when I do need to make purchases, I buy them as soon as I can find them in stores - which is usually late winter or early spring. Make a list now of the sort of things to keep your eye out for. For example, snail bait, lime, or bird netting. </p><p>In addition, if you upcycle any items to use in your gardening pursuits, start gathering them now. For instance, gallon jugs or milk cartons for seed starting, newspaper and cardboard for mulching, and so on. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgreJasKdVeBdK5uk2UxY4UiKTTTVv2yav7eNfPFL8NxEzchyGWN-rMd760pvNN4eqoA9MDeeTvaDCfKJ3lIKn-uOPrak61y1dmg8uGC4gRkjjrYMaHCKy3ztR9fis5k7pMATDgz5mOR7s5D5uMF1x6k26t3nPIjiU743MFw5u1d4iFM5gdHo_MkKLnRwQ/s480/raised%20garden%20bed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="360" height="405" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgreJasKdVeBdK5uk2UxY4UiKTTTVv2yav7eNfPFL8NxEzchyGWN-rMd760pvNN4eqoA9MDeeTvaDCfKJ3lIKn-uOPrak61y1dmg8uGC4gRkjjrYMaHCKy3ztR9fis5k7pMATDgz5mOR7s5D5uMF1x6k26t3nPIjiU743MFw5u1d4iFM5gdHo_MkKLnRwQ/w304-h405/raised%20garden%20bed.jpg" width="304" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gonna need bird netting? Buy it as soon as it appears in stores</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tip #7: Make a List and Check it Twice </span></p><p>Have you ever had grand gardening plans only to suddenly realize spring has sprung and you haven't planted anything? You can easily avoid this problem by making a list of everything you want to plant and noting by what date you must start the seeds and put the seedlings into the garden. If you prefer, use a calendar to note these important dates. </p><p>This is also a good time to consider whether you want to plant everything at once - ending up with large harvests all at one time - or use succession planting. With the latter, you plant a little bit of, say, green beans, then a week later, plant a few more, then a week later plant a few more. Succession planting is great if you want just enough food on hand to eat fresh, or if you want to preserve in small batches. </p><p>And that's it! May your future gardens be bountiful! </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts: </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/07/growing-vegetables-in-winter-hint-start.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="278" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCS2wpM6bphCVllU8DSFhhK3EZL2PPHWTIeOttOiVkIWxhsfL-8f2looDFhAWhY_QtjndgqnTTqS4gP-qsOP9rdgw-Otn_ymlbwSZxZPGSrGbjZNH8per8D5BsOgC5B_7g_5AO3uJcnk1jv1Rq-HVY412571o3St9IXaL1tKtZQ9YtYUgfIcwjye3L7XM/s320/Growing-Vegetables-in-the-Winter..jpg" width="213" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/06/organic-pest-control-what-really-works.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUe4HiReqdebC1gUunTnX7hUPcGJl1c9ttPLc211zESYkC2lGaqioxTfNbDNneK3oteuzHQ8qBsSD5tyFxXCwhdnlMlrj-fOyaLXbHfqXl2Pc5atgqoMUj-zPyfomBUlAjHBEsc33j8N5zDe7o1STVp9veVYAAhdKmXPYvgg7V8O5kkMhxe90lTTUI5Y/s320/Organic%20Pest%20Control.jpg" width="213" /> </a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/01/how-to-winter-sow-vegetables-and.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="288" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKgYjxUFOgq-73H8jiqlWLXN27yBDRzKQP5AW2xHZWZvANGPrWKzYWny28ZIzZeTbWoKEhs3A7kIs0u52WZNpmmrgrPDrzaIB8GQB5cz3EXHd04ft0RZgM7esUw8frDHSRjKi2dB_2C9guukwGaSEusqbZy8dtBZB1SOU087NLgN0K2PWe-eqQDZT5qkc/s320/How-To-Winter-Sow-Seeds.jpg" width="230" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> </span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-40194345183654341832023-11-20T10:53:00.000-08:002023-11-20T10:53:27.553-08:00Beanless Chili Recipe (Plus Keto Cornbread!) Grain Free, Keto, Low Carb<p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i></i></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Mng2bGAWQv9yVBgoflF4wCyB9ru_JaUkV1vLZDGReC_GASiW1zteNqDmJF294PUKxMPsZ9YImabc8zvaZbaXBUJosJH_PgwOxxiB3x9gxbqkxDuujzWW880jVBIayVe2XuQazawPoJbWYIPqmqR8Y1OZc7009x8x7riYeDdf0gDzxzChXkGVzOd43_k/s1500/Beanless-Chili-Recipe.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Mng2bGAWQv9yVBgoflF4wCyB9ru_JaUkV1vLZDGReC_GASiW1zteNqDmJF294PUKxMPsZ9YImabc8zvaZbaXBUJosJH_PgwOxxiB3x9gxbqkxDuujzWW880jVBIayVe2XuQazawPoJbWYIPqmqR8Y1OZc7009x8x7riYeDdf0gDzxzChXkGVzOd43_k/w282-h424/Beanless-Chili-Recipe.jpg" width="282" /></a></i></span></div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><br />This post may contain affiliate links. All
opinions are my own. Please see FCC disclosure for full information.
Thank you for supporting this site!</i></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i> </i></span></p><p><span style="font-size: small;">Before I switched to a keto diet (which not only took my out of control blood sugar and made it normal <i>without </i>medication - you can read more about how I totally <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/04/how-i-reversed-my-diabetes.html" target="_blank">reversed my diabetes here</a> - but also put my hidradenitis suppurativa in remission), I had never heard of - let alone eaten - beanless chili. Now it's the only chili I make! This stuff is YUMMY <i>and </i>easy (my favorite combo). And while I don't love a super spicy chili, you can easily make this recipe spicier</span><span style="font-size: small;"> by following the notes below. If you want to add some low carb, no grain "corn"bread, check out the recipe that follows the chili recipe. Even my carbivore family thinks it tastes just like the real thing!<br /></span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/proverbs31womanprintables/home/beanless-chili-recipe" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="48" data-original-width="44" height="65" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxe4E66cG9BM3jXIHpLhCmLRXRf4DtrJUl30dzErFwOB9Uu5_8JO7RU8YAolw33zJe0My9pXKSIQb-LLagtCchRizZVKRBdfKvsJeIUk63vYLNKh1vBwPH3NTYI9tq25bMDQ_dYOHIGRa3c714ZnRlqmLfhQcXtjRsHc0laQGdOwia9CkeVL2v-8YbsdE/w59-h65/print.jpg" width="59" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"> Beanless Chili Recipe </span><p></p><p> 2 lbs. ground beef</p><p>1 bell pepper, chopped</p><p>1 jalapeno or Serrano pepper, chopped*</p><p>2 garlic cloves, minced</p><p>1 quart jar (about 32 oz.) stewed tomatoes</p><p>1 pint jar (about 15 oz.) tomato sauce</p><p>32 oz. beef broth</p><p>7 oz. tomato paste</p><p>2 tablespoons chili powder**</p><p>1 teaspoon dried oregano</p><p>1 teaspoon cumin</p><p>1 teaspoon garlic powder</p><p>sea salt and pepper</p><p><i>* For chili that isn't very spicy, use a jalapeno and remove all the seeds. For more heat, keep some or all of the seeds. For hotter chili, use a Serrano pepper; again, the more seeds you leave in, the hotter the chili will be. I recommend wearing gloves when chopping chilies.<br /></i></p><p><i>** If you like spicy chili, this amount of chili powder is a starting point. After the chili has simmered 10 minutes or so, taste it; add more chili powder, if desired.</i></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHWteudN-BkOrOta1kco9ec0LMTEoAoUOslWjKSsHKU6ZNBRnoZMX_CGlzLpJPzzMG3jtPDqZFm8Da6IxBMVr5srvRgD4A4j7949Hex2SxTnwbtX1WGgaqqYCeOTZ04PiTpdkIYkFxrXY6nBEeeXg19tWx5mlQKQIOx58tCoTkG31Mc5Q7kAMPBM_5ZwI/s2048/beanless-chili.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1541" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHWteudN-BkOrOta1kco9ec0LMTEoAoUOslWjKSsHKU6ZNBRnoZMX_CGlzLpJPzzMG3jtPDqZFm8Da6IxBMVr5srvRgD4A4j7949Hex2SxTnwbtX1WGgaqqYCeOTZ04PiTpdkIYkFxrXY6nBEeeXg19tWx5mlQKQIOx58tCoTkG31Mc5Q7kAMPBM_5ZwI/w304-h403/beanless-chili.jpg" width="304" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Delicious, easy bean-free chili.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>1. In a skillet, thoroughly cook the ground beef. Drain off the fat.</p><p>2. In a large pot, combine all the ingredients. Cover and bring to a simmer. If you're in a hurry, don't use a lid and simmer for about a half hour, but the flavors will be better if you simmer the chili for several hours. Keep the lid on if you want more liquid in the chili, and remove the lid if you want to cook off some of the liquid/thicken the chili.</p><p>3. When you think the chili is done, <i><u>taste it</u></i>. If you want more spiciness, see the asterisk notes above. Or if you just want stronger overall flavor, add a bit more salt. If desired, serve with sour cream and grated cheese.<br /></p><p><b>NUTRITIONAL INFO. </b>It's always more accurate to calculate nutritional ingredients based on the exact products you are using; however, according to NutritionValue.org, this recipe (12 servings) has 269 calories, 17 g. fat, and 14 carbohydrates, and 181 g. protein per serving. If you add more chilies, more chili powder, or sour cream and cheese, all these values will increase.<br /></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p> </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XmISDptltvuN7_wDOIDxD11hHeoU7BCQ5LUOp1Q_vuAzJ_EcyXqWgTTbNJ6QK0oeEpanPjmQU_kC3aQBuPrSUMZW10-4dSqy_iDWieWUkdIixYRAKX2rJy1cRmWyyCpfwVQCPJXIFb2pdiGN9kY70wIszBP-kj4_l1v7TL1JeDjUvK2TD_HJiCzWLeo/s3018/Keto%20Cornbread.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3018" data-original-width="2252" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XmISDptltvuN7_wDOIDxD11hHeoU7BCQ5LUOp1Q_vuAzJ_EcyXqWgTTbNJ6QK0oeEpanPjmQU_kC3aQBuPrSUMZW10-4dSqy_iDWieWUkdIixYRAKX2rJy1cRmWyyCpfwVQCPJXIFb2pdiGN9kY70wIszBP-kj4_l1v7TL1JeDjUvK2TD_HJiCzWLeo/w306-h410/Keto%20Cornbread.jpg" width="306" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Keto "corn"bread is grain-free and yummy!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/proverbs31womanprintables/home/keto-cornbread-recipe" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="48" data-original-width="44" height="77" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6_gVuB7QGbU7vCX6SuBoZS0uzQ1CBEpDCz3kx0pZp9ZirZR5Ptq0yr6_rDtr6gTqN8OBdulmagujMV0EWlaqpNEoc5iAyCh50RXJ064PZYLL0AjX5vf9t7LDJUGyBbrWEceqbBOuxheRsDgJreL-Qc092D0_pxW1Axt4cyQIQR9JwcJLeYNAAlbyiys4/w71-h77/print.jpg" width="71" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Keto "Corn"bread Recipe<br /></span><p></p><p>1 tablespoon butter</p><p>3/4 cup coconut flour (<a href="https://amzn.to/3R3Zv8X" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">I use this</a>.)<br /></p><p>1/2 cup almond flour or meal (<a href="https://amzn.to/3R3Zv8X" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">I use this.</a>)<br /></p><p>1/4 cup <a href="https://amzn.to/3R3Zv8X" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">erythritol</a><br /></p><p>1/2 teaspoon <a href="https://amzn.to/3sw3wtu" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">xanthan gum</a></p><p>1/2 teaspoon sea salt</p><p>6 large eggs </p><p>1/2 cup melted butter, cooled</p><p>1/4 to 1/2 cup water</p><p> </p><p>1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Place 1 tablespoon of butter in a <a href="https://amzn.to/40JRVDA" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">10-inch cast iron skillet</a> (or other overproof skillet). Place the skillet in the oven to preheat.</p><p>2. In a large bowl, mix together the coconut flour, almond flour, e<span class="a-size-large product-title-word-break" id="productTitle" style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">rythritol</span></span>, baking powder, xanthan gum, and salt.</p><p>3. Stir in 1/4 cup of water. If the batter is dry or overly thick, add additional water - just a very small amount at a time.<br /></p><p>4. Pour the batter into the pre-heated skillet, using a fork or the back of a spoon to even it out. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, or until the edges are golden brown. Remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack. Wait until the "corn"bread is cool before slicing.</p><p><b>NUTRITIONAL INFO. </b>It's always more accurate to calculate nutritional
ingredients based on the exact products you are using; however,
according to NutritionValue.org, this recipe (12 servings) has157 calories, 13 g, fat, 5.7 carbohydrates, and 5.6 g. protein per serving.<br /></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="<script async src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154" crossorigin="anonymous"></script> <!-- top articles --> <ins class="adsbygoogle" style="display:inline-block;width:336px;height:280px" data-ad-client="ca-pub-6951681679104154" data-ad-slot="9739713372"></ins> <script> (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); </script>" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyPhk7qNYEyiheRjI5TbUYVXVXL7LBQu_-WCMGBOo5jtywms-fQDtCcwEi0AV92-4l-k8yk_dahtL0jm0yj7NFjwBSmsGdiKrYWoz9lY0dKemkaaXne6k4ywUswCJSd5L6z0737YjFjy0hAcChTaaGm8IX47lGhltcesqkLnjesw20KLcFNarcmIzBaQg/w237-h357/Healthy-No-Noodle-Goulash.jpg" width="237" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/12/nourishing-hamburger-soup-in-instant.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="284" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpdMmbybmG4dJJWbMJ4kdPdoc3gBY4Ifk3md_b4E6L5lA507dw8BIPpQxgTQawP8T3XoWdQTZYZf7_MUs5pTfJbi79V7a9FWgKBH6vfit6Sv4lSiROUzxR0dMS1IzQ_j7Gg9trmywkUUGwMKSmbfHwK3h1nzLPM0zvFukpO-giCQdtN3oc9aoS7GvZM8/w247-h371/Keto-Hamburger-Soup-Recipe.jpg" width="247" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/09/mock-apple-crisp-made-with-zucchini.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5cNJeqijhuN9B5oH85pX6k0i8RpNckf7-zynMPe2ty6fKMoUA344LawIEelwpyM4uLxzwB6wPkJYFsO985tNAjYWK_sQtw_v1DoZS8N0J21kFSTngk8M10WWpc9L_lRa6WDUlAAjTQYfjd2VhKT2BYSGVZGJ7-WluIQlr0MDkrlrcPsTnq4Gd99RtCAg/w251-h377/Mock-Apple-Crisp-made-with-zucchini-recipe.jpg" width="251" /></a></div><br />Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-14608752658855817672023-11-13T12:52:00.000-08:002024-01-21T09:56:00.224-08:00Fall on the Homestead<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEAa8nPagf7FSbEF4RgGp-R_yNlxTVlZnr4jCEaTQGHbteLOFuzHZuXQn-DxsF2o727eLhC8wr9Tuly6rlgGOgMq8Uws3CyAAPsp1_e4CKvKRH-ojolQr_9Ye8QLp5FpUNxHbWiBxK6hWlNeDeC_vB_lA5fE0ZdPAWxSKVv0BXDt5eVce72Aa9urfix8/s1709/last%20harvest.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1709" data-original-width="1080" height="433" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEAa8nPagf7FSbEF4RgGp-R_yNlxTVlZnr4jCEaTQGHbteLOFuzHZuXQn-DxsF2o727eLhC8wr9Tuly6rlgGOgMq8Uws3CyAAPsp1_e4CKvKRH-ojolQr_9Ye8QLp5FpUNxHbWiBxK6hWlNeDeC_vB_lA5fE0ZdPAWxSKVv0BXDt5eVce72Aa9urfix8/w274-h433/last%20harvest.jpg" width="274" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The last harvest of the season.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></i> </p><p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="text Gal-6-9" id="en-NIV-29198">"Let us not become weary in doing good, for at the proper time we will reap a harvest if we do not give up.</span> <span class="text Gal-6-10" id="en-NIV-29199">Therefore, as we have opportunity, let us do good to all people, especially to those who belong to the family of believers."</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="text Gal-6-10" id="en-NIV-29199"><a href="https://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=galations+6&version=NIV" target="_blank">Gal. 9:10 </a></span></span> </p><p style="text-align: center;">______________<br /></p><p>It's been a crazy-busy fall! Some of this is due to the usual homestead push to finish harvesting and preserving what I grew this year, but I also had an extra-curricular activity this summer and fall: I was rehearsing for, and then performing, the role of Mary Poppins in a local theater production. (Yes, I do have a life outside of homesteading!) Once upon a time, I was a professional musical theater performer; now I just do a show now and then for fun. This was a particularly challenging musical, and it ended with me getting the "C" virus for the first time, but gosh it was fun! Even more delightful was that I got to perform with my daughter, who'd never been in a musical before. Special times!</p><p>On the homestead front, the garden produced quite abundantly this year, so I spent a lot of time preserving this fall. The only disappointment was my winter squash. I'd planted most of it in newly purchased soil, and, as it turned out, it was still pretty "hot" (decomposing). This lead to extremely slow initial growth. I should have just fertilized the winter squash as soon as I noticed the slow growth rate and yellow leaves (signs of a nitrogen deficiency), but I don't typically fertilize anything, and I just kept putting it off. The end result was that I got few fully mature winter squash. But hey, <i>some </i>winter squash (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2014/12/why-winter-squash-is-perfect-homestead.html" target="_blank">which I <i>love </i>because it requires zero preserving</a> in order to last many months in storage) is better than none! We eat the less mature squash just like summer squash, too - so nothing really goes to waste.<br /></p><p>The garden is now ready for winter: All the tender crops are harvested, and I left most of the summer plants in the soil. This helps prevent erosion during winter, and as the plants die, all the nutrients built up in the roots release into the soil. I've also covered the top of the soil with rabbit manure. (Don't have manure? Add whatever organic matter you have on hand, like <span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">dried
leaves, dried grass clippings, leaves from healthy plants, roots from
previous crops, compost,
wood chips...laid on top of the soil, not dug or tilled in, if you're following <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" target="_blank">the abundant and easy no till, no dig method I use</a>.)<br /></span></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXnG_C3fgrYbsk6ppaPofTy6lt9td37ItOrGDMkB0of7507IyAJ5GL2G49C_Ba5dIP6FPBa-5qIN3VMHWPRbjwIiNiD0dJr-16_YtwiYvGiWSI1J8hEyIAoPKY1ZESGoKIet-Bq7OlMY0BrwmQ6sRHzkMfjRoEdvlXMAj2s07T3i8haxdzitQL613qM4/s1319/Mary-Poppins.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1319" data-original-width="1031" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXnG_C3fgrYbsk6ppaPofTy6lt9td37ItOrGDMkB0of7507IyAJ5GL2G49C_Ba5dIP6FPBa-5qIN3VMHWPRbjwIiNiD0dJr-16_YtwiYvGiWSI1J8hEyIAoPKY1ZESGoKIet-Bq7OlMY0BrwmQ6sRHzkMfjRoEdvlXMAj2s07T3i8haxdzitQL613qM4/s320/Mary-Poppins.jpg" width="250" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Playing Mary Poppins.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"> </span><p></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"></span></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></span></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">Overwintering in the garden are Brussels sprouts, carrots, cabbage, kale, and collards. I do nothing special to these winter crops; they quite easily survive the small amount of snow we might get. There are also still snow peas growing and producing. (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/07/growing-vegetables-in-winter-hint-start.html" target="_blank">Want to learn more about growing food in winter? Click here</a>.)<br /></span></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidH0r0nrq5tsm3gEMspXN-Npbgq3ebXwrbhDjJ3uGySqSH_3QI3mrw4r4AM2geMA5bB1ym9bns7kdn1jD9-72bngkGha3N2q9pbt56ZsYii-OmbGBEq0aBn6DxPRYUfcPUBsS8vc5T-ieWgKLNziTcLmD-A2OYpH5s7aIjw_5013agCbMwDKAbghJECSQ/s1918/Brussels%20sprouts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1918" data-original-width="1080" height="429" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidH0r0nrq5tsm3gEMspXN-Npbgq3ebXwrbhDjJ3uGySqSH_3QI3mrw4r4AM2geMA5bB1ym9bns7kdn1jD9-72bngkGha3N2q9pbt56ZsYii-OmbGBEq0aBn6DxPRYUfcPUBsS8vc5T-ieWgKLNziTcLmD-A2OYpH5s7aIjw_5013agCbMwDKAbghJECSQ/w242-h429/Brussels%20sprouts.jpg" width="242" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Brussels sprouts overwintering in my garden.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichtC74djr2-1e1ycdpkYTQB9vtO9JGZRqMNvxRBzQjKWXz2KZdsamV7ANLl9XYIy2zgz0iLifcVVWDmYk6XHivdMVJVFPB2T0qKsnerTRqdQND21IcnnQakeomcej-8v0tOgptbQvO6vGgXA7kj0jQRNZkc-5ctl4_Mo5IoT27Gp9aZfXornGSSvI4BQ/s1635/zucchini%20bread.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1635" data-original-width="1080" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichtC74djr2-1e1ycdpkYTQB9vtO9JGZRqMNvxRBzQjKWXz2KZdsamV7ANLl9XYIy2zgz0iLifcVVWDmYk6XHivdMVJVFPB2T0qKsnerTRqdQND21IcnnQakeomcej-8v0tOgptbQvO6vGgXA7kj0jQRNZkc-5ctl4_Mo5IoT27Gp9aZfXornGSSvI4BQ/w268-h406/zucchini%20bread.jpg" width="268" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>An abundance of summer squash led to lots of zucchini bread, fried squash, and zoodles.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51_D5eGWwcewFv1WHcFP1xEP02xMigJz8s30OEqNNreRsUf-vJ0LbEO0tRudYXRfvvwROODCd7nLbELEXYce4bqWU4iVQucWq2nXbghWzSuq6OfRQ6rFtGWHCK9axqYhBeWUMP-uAJ09O8B27SphaOmOjs2WdUoTO4C2v828cak58svIyrN3RodYg9YY/s1918/huge-carrot.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1918" data-original-width="1080" height="389" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51_D5eGWwcewFv1WHcFP1xEP02xMigJz8s30OEqNNreRsUf-vJ0LbEO0tRudYXRfvvwROODCd7nLbELEXYce4bqWU4iVQucWq2nXbghWzSuq6OfRQ6rFtGWHCK9axqYhBeWUMP-uAJ09O8B27SphaOmOjs2WdUoTO4C2v828cak58svIyrN3RodYg9YY/w219-h389/huge-carrot.jpg" width="219" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nutrient-rich organic soil grows the biggest and best veggies!<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">The orchard didn't do a ton this year. There were no plums or ripe figs (due to spring weather conditions) and the pears were diseased, but we had plenty of apples. In fact, it was the perfect harvest for a busy season, since we had plenty, but not so many I was overwhelmed! </span></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdE5mJEv0_vppelcx4UMuvY1A1l6anbyjzuOtQ-zpTLSXH44MbMLIonnAks0_RsiugAzG-lwn5gfx4xyoDTKny4nwWtQJ2fNlWp9IuSeH6Ons4nDW2slFPx0L8Y49IG1BYk3E4GVLhLSV0gLPodtqZFXQO9QYxJt1DXiNheu5M9Zfs5dnkbNjh-LsVWc/s1405/freeze%20dried%20vs%20dehydrated.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLdE5mJEv0_vppelcx4UMuvY1A1l6anbyjzuOtQ-zpTLSXH44MbMLIonnAks0_RsiugAzG-lwn5gfx4xyoDTKny4nwWtQJ2fNlWp9IuSeH6Ons4nDW2slFPx0L8Y49IG1BYk3E4GVLhLSV0gLPodtqZFXQO9QYxJt1DXiNheu5M9Zfs5dnkbNjh-LsVWc/s320/freeze%20dried%20vs%20dehydrated.jpg" width="246" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I can, freeze, dehydrate, and freeze dry many foods, including apples. Freeze dried is on the left; dehydrated is on the right.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><br /><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51DK9QC0ETqZRHEvF64RzJfxKGvaqJzAkjC0hdNBeZxMa3FCJSGcBBqrFQ2NY45rc0mYT-_EwcuqzDM5KLQ0244AWDmXvam1jIizdAUnfzqjRAiJPmHd4nt1eZxBXpvwEE8rgXNl6h0ggBAXvT9JOc8K4fxxTaElI-p73BhyphenhyphenslSri_tA3BLyXrK5dKyQ/s1472/zucchini%20jam.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1472" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51DK9QC0ETqZRHEvF64RzJfxKGvaqJzAkjC0hdNBeZxMa3FCJSGcBBqrFQ2NY45rc0mYT-_EwcuqzDM5KLQ0244AWDmXvam1jIizdAUnfzqjRAiJPmHd4nt1eZxBXpvwEE8rgXNl6h0ggBAXvT9JOc8K4fxxTaElI-p73BhyphenhyphenslSri_tA3BLyXrK5dKyQ/s320/zucchini%20jam.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Zucchini bread jam from <a href="https://amzn.to/47ehLlM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The All New Ball Book of Canning and Preserving.</a></i><a href="https://amzn.to/47ehLlM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwJD2fKh1wq7vOjYIf_egl9s7x-98kddY_UHCrq3kK7iMOA2SvVamU0TIUgur4RkVRwttnjGoMYcoqQqk3vLIt0GKV4IlR8DGlQLt1ro4YuhcrxTC8V0466EOBIhmr92fJMAl1poSPMcJdaILmtjqw0XBJhrQ6TlDkzQWAXIDW6jte_ytARbQFontBBc/s1470/pickled%20beets.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1470" data-original-width="1080" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwJD2fKh1wq7vOjYIf_egl9s7x-98kddY_UHCrq3kK7iMOA2SvVamU0TIUgur4RkVRwttnjGoMYcoqQqk3vLIt0GKV4IlR8DGlQLt1ro4YuhcrxTC8V0466EOBIhmr92fJMAl1poSPMcJdaILmtjqw0XBJhrQ6TlDkzQWAXIDW6jte_ytARbQFontBBc/w285-h388/pickled%20beets.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Canning pickled beets.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-mZS81GYCyqE_UN72AfqPKyKhl-XqXjRcL2sBgDfbMe-DVk-sxLBOaDiCn71qjZHtHqjI94TlkDFLuFVPLob6MHqBUjIFtMJMuvJ3p36zbMr_mTSMEbInIVm_2-PMzP419En1HFV37vQOVyQldEFDmauNgj3XFAuaK5RzWPbrIRaGTfEM-ZsIcq30PE/s1781/Freeze%20dried%20onions.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1781" data-original-width="1080" height="389" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-mZS81GYCyqE_UN72AfqPKyKhl-XqXjRcL2sBgDfbMe-DVk-sxLBOaDiCn71qjZHtHqjI94TlkDFLuFVPLob6MHqBUjIFtMJMuvJ3p36zbMr_mTSMEbInIVm_2-PMzP419En1HFV37vQOVyQldEFDmauNgj3XFAuaK5RzWPbrIRaGTfEM-ZsIcq30PE/w236-h389/Freeze%20dried%20onions.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My Walla Walla onions were HUGE this year! Just 2 of them, chopped, weighed 5.5 lbs and filled my freeze dryer</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>On the livestock front, we replaced our aging hens with chicks we hatched. Now pullets, it's interesting to see them grow, since they are a "barnyard mix" - something we've never raised before. We'll see how they stack up to our usual favorite breed: <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/06/our-favorite-chicken-breed-australorps.html" target="_blank">Australorps</a>. We are taking a break from quail currently, but continue to raise rabbits, who are doing quite well, indeed.</p><p></p></span><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbK4ZV9i8AkIiiTj0zd4q3rsJ8hnYcssckEeDnEwZGMCUUbOho4s7TeZ6Bru0ofLdVg3_ebyTakaIrV5tvTsaA91CBrinT_b1A7s-f6_iJXS627pZcMyU0CLd6ybCotT1X_ve09MN9IgP8OOqXhJMknBY1W3v41GeFBFTNEybjkAfXSlNVRu1rCpHcWR8/s1457/freeze%20dried%20eggs.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1457" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbK4ZV9i8AkIiiTj0zd4q3rsJ8hnYcssckEeDnEwZGMCUUbOho4s7TeZ6Bru0ofLdVg3_ebyTakaIrV5tvTsaA91CBrinT_b1A7s-f6_iJXS627pZcMyU0CLd6ybCotT1X_ve09MN9IgP8OOqXhJMknBY1W3v41GeFBFTNEybjkAfXSlNVRu1rCpHcWR8/s320/freeze%20dried%20eggs.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Our new hens aren't laying yet, so I'm thankful I have home freeze dried eggs in the pantry!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">RELATED POSTS:</span></p><p><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/06/our-favorite-chicken-breed-australorps.html" target="_blank">Kristina's "Famous" Zucchini Bread recipe</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/03/how-to-dehydrate-zoodles-other.html" target="_blank">How to Make Zoodles</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/05/freeze-dried-vs-dehydrated-food-whats.html" target="_blank">Freeze Dried vs. Dehydrated. What's the Difference?</a><br /></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/04/why-i-bought-harvest-right-freeze-dryer.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="218" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijDlaBlD3xHDDoEl5Koiv2S0mdTIlZggFtBW3huSEY-u3gW81x4zx2LEUzudmUcILaCfI2DnDz9BF1a_FH1wmZL4kxlNjr8l5UAu0UQDn3rB6xJXSqCmetzabgkUPeXOW05tdaztXSD1M65NT6ns0pDDpTz5HOgAwgKaBTwlp4SRimsU-ETVit-06nix8/s320/Why-I-Bought-a-Home-Freeze-Dryer.jpg" width="174" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="335" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEmLytuDx2GCskqWL4NIllUbfR1Z_mCu2IANRxcLgNd5B5wgRpmKG3azJNFp0fM0zeY3ZBSrybvtP-nXIWmdJBjZDoCVya0LBLyHQNt5btPW9aoim43X9ADsXwcXoXZ3HAFfrcgvt6PTaF1zu5Q-9RIoydlyoEFOQMymwlfQyyWCaSA0arJMgg18JLBFs/s320/Creating-a-New-Vegetable-Garden.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><br /><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/07/growing-vegetables-in-winter-hint-start.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="278" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Dy7wkyDGzw68OpCZqApnwrTTXJ194zIGlV2oWKJXAU6A4hfIF957AofiuGp79QGF-nIX4wVqqb4hrQ9lvW29EOUIwIMt7c_SEwvn9JVabtZXI86HMo-3cBsWDXd3shrXdoe0aY06iFcB4Uos0kIprEr6ZXdCfUa61m7OeZsYBayEh_aVcIaMnL6mkHw/s320/Growing-Vegetables-in-the-Winter..jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p></p><script async src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"
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</script>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-66571477805210950012023-09-22T13:43:00.009-07:002024-01-21T09:56:24.453-08:00What to Do with Green Tomatoes (Ripening, Cooking, Baking, and Canning!)<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsHuHXMoh0uw_gfdLSnW-WPD1X_vjER_BYQ6ZHCiSeOi-05JR1v5Zb63ePFGPcito690_NWzQLmvnsTrAppJisDRHtVkIAuoq6t1yOQGnKx1Yt8W7d_xm83IE24kww7-OJJ0hMZ9fpCclQ_eUMpTav1TVMDt0yYJMwIT1u3oZJL3UuLvOreKgIdHhU5cU/s1500/What%20to%20Do%20With%20Green%20Tomatoes.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsHuHXMoh0uw_gfdLSnW-WPD1X_vjER_BYQ6ZHCiSeOi-05JR1v5Zb63ePFGPcito690_NWzQLmvnsTrAppJisDRHtVkIAuoq6t1yOQGnKx1Yt8W7d_xm83IE24kww7-OJJ0hMZ9fpCclQ_eUMpTav1TVMDt0yYJMwIT1u3oZJL3UuLvOreKgIdHhU5cU/w305-h458/What%20to%20Do%20With%20Green%20Tomatoes.jpg" width="305" /></a></span></i></div><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p>Hopefully, you got lots of vine-ripened tomatoes over the summer, but now as cooler weather comes in, perhaps your tomato plants have little more than solid green fruit. If lots of rain is coming (and with it splitting and disease) or if frost is predicted, you can still make excellent use of all those green, unripe 'maters! Here's how.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Ripening Green Tomatoes Indoors<br /></span></p><p>Did you know that you can easily ripen green tomatoes indoors? Just harvest them off the plant, then lay them in a single layer in a dark location. (It is temperature, <i>not </i>sunlight that causes tomatoes to ripen.) </p><p>I put them inside cupboards or in shallow boxes (the type canning jars come in are ideal) in a dark room or closet. Slowly, the tomatoes will ripen. In fact, you may be even have fresh, ripe tomatoes for Christmas! These tomatoes won't taste as wonderful as vine-ripened tomatoes, but they are still much better than store bought.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Cooking and Baking with Green Tomatoes</span></p><p>There are also many recipes that will use up a glut of unripe green tomatoes. Here are just a handful of green tomato recipes I think are worth trying. You can find many more by visiting your favorite recipe websites:<br /></p><p>* <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/10/green-tomato-pie-recipe.html" target="_blank">Green Tomato Pie</a> (which tastes just like apple pie!)</p><p>* <a href="https://citycommonscsa.wordpress.com/2012/10/19/green-tomato-and-corn-slaw/" target="_blank">Green Tomato and Corn Slaw </a></p><p>* <a href="https://recipes.oregonlive.com/recipes/green-tomato-enchilada-sauce" target="_blank">Green Tomato Enchilada Sauce</a> <br /></p><p>* <a href="https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/234953/green-tomato-and-bacon-soup/" target="_blank">Green Tomato and Bacon Soup </a><br /></p><p>* <a href="https://freshbitesdaily.com/roasted-green-tomatoes/" target="_blank">Roasted Green Tomatoes</a></p><p>* <a href="https://holycowvegan.net/green-tomato-stew/" target="_blank">Green Tomato Stew </a><br /></p><p>* G<a href="https://www.thespruceeats.com/green-tomato-ketchup-3057087" target="_blank">reen Tomato Catsup </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.holajalapeno.com/green-tomato-chili/" target="_blank">Green Tomato Chili</a></p><p> * <a href="https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/229148/green-tomato-casserole/" target="_blank">Green Tomato Casserole </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.thespruceeats.com/green-tomato-cake-recipe-3057074" target="_blank">Green Tomato Cake </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.cooks.com/recipe/jc2vt55n/green-tomato-cornbread.html" target="_blank">Green Tomato Cornbread </a><br /></p><p>* <a href="https://www.thefoodblog.net/oven-fried-green-tomatoes/" target="_blank">Oven or Air Fried Green Tomatoes</a> (or traditional <a href="https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/222921/mawmaws-simple-fried-green-tomatoes/" target="_blank">Fried Green Tomatoes</a>) </p><p>* <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/recipes/green-tomato-bread/" target="_blank">Green Tomato Bread </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/254970/fried-green-tomato-parmesan/" target="_blank">Green Tomatoes Parmesan </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/66782/mexina-salsa-verde/" target="_blank">Salsa Verde </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/green-tomato-jam/" target="_blank">Green Tomato Jam</a> (not for canning; keep in the freezer or refrigerator) </p><p>* <a href="https://www.growforagecookferment.com/fermented-green-tomatoes/" target="_blank">Lacto-fermented green tomatoes</a><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></span></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjFOWWyRuatEPMS-4IjY8RkPcX3OthD9kO67O1fz-wnSnTVTczBfFOKXKE_ZlmE-bTjvfzy5uhKsh44TGLqeRaujQbdaTJb6Tgcd5NjcdGBYJaqP2H4Bz_4u9gZD6zwR5DyNs2RQFEEotukx9aa0kNV6Imf9P2kxkkeUNPo5_VXogigEK6bubsqy1tkZU/s1080/308732166_5821084821267719_1286578640906039882_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1040" data-original-width="1080" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjFOWWyRuatEPMS-4IjY8RkPcX3OthD9kO67O1fz-wnSnTVTczBfFOKXKE_ZlmE-bTjvfzy5uhKsh44TGLqeRaujQbdaTJb6Tgcd5NjcdGBYJaqP2H4Bz_4u9gZD6zwR5DyNs2RQFEEotukx9aa0kNV6Imf9P2kxkkeUNPo5_VXogigEK6bubsqy1tkZU/w372-h358/308732166_5821084821267719_1286578640906039882_n.jpg" width="372" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Green tomatoes ripening in a single layer.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"><br />Canning Green Tomatoes</span><p></p><p>You might be surprised to learn that there are some excellent tested safe canning recipes for unripe green tomatoes. Here are some you can find online:<br /></p><p>* <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/sweet_green_tomato.html" target="_blank">Pickled Sweet Green Tomatoes</a></p><p>* <a href="https://extension.umaine.edu/cumberland/2016/10/14/lets-preserve-green-tomatoes/" target="_blank">Green Tomatoes Mincemeat</a></p><p>* <a href="https://extension.umaine.edu/cumberland/2016/10/14/lets-preserve-green-tomatoes/" target="_blank">Green Tomato Slices</a> <br /></p><p>* <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/spiced_green_tomatoes.html" target="_blank">Spiced Green Tomatoe</a>s </p><p>* <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/kosher_green_tomato.html" target="_blank">Kosher Style Dilled Green Tomatoes</a></p><p>* <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_02/can_pie/green_tomato_filling.html" target="_blank">Green Tomato Pie Filling </a></p><p>* <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/green_tomato_relish.html" target="_blank">Green Tomato Relish </a>(Also <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/fall_garden_relish.html" target="_blank">Fall Garden Relish</a> and <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/rummage_relish.html" target="_blank">Rummage Relish</a>)<br /></p><p>* <a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_06/piccalilli.html" target="_blank">Picalilli </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.healthycanning.com/green-tomato-salsa/" target="_blank">Green Tomato Salsa </a> (See also <a href="https://extension.umaine.edu/cumberland/2016/10/14/lets-preserve-green-tomatoes/" target="_blank">this recipe</a>, which was tested with unpeeled green tomatoes)<br /></p><p>* <a href="https://www.healthycanning.com/pickled-green-tomatoes" target="_blank">Pickled Green Tomatoes </a></p><p>* <a href="https://www.thismamacooks.com/2020/08/green-tomato-ketchup-recipe.html" target="_blank">Green Tomato Catsup </a><br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZuj8r00CJ32mpx82A8TfmywRQ1ZxD26QdKtKeAzi0lNjA6poF4k6EQdW2MZgCqjtscOrZF6cCDB5qgMSvEDDnbMvVufYQfd5N6OSLGRKeqiNhHvK9MWI9QvqqkQyuZYvO8IhSb_XhEQmvh7WfGjVM8i8GIC2bK2z-athDLHTKDgl39ivqXa3WDJKM0g/s1080/308870649_5826597064049828_5515830393463462727_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZuj8r00CJ32mpx82A8TfmywRQ1ZxD26QdKtKeAzi0lNjA6poF4k6EQdW2MZgCqjtscOrZF6cCDB5qgMSvEDDnbMvVufYQfd5N6OSLGRKeqiNhHvK9MWI9QvqqkQyuZYvO8IhSb_XhEQmvh7WfGjVM8i8GIC2bK2z-athDLHTKDgl39ivqXa3WDJKM0g/s320/308870649_5826597064049828_5515830393463462727_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Green tomatoes, fresh from harvesting</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>In addition, <a href="The All New Ball Book of Canning and Preserving" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><i>The All New Ball Book of Canning and Preserving</i></a> has a recipe for Thai Green Tomatoes and Green Tomato and Hot Pepper Pickles, while <i><a href="The Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving</a></i> has recipes for several green tomato relishes, several green tomato pickles, green chili sauce, green tomato chutney, and salsa verde.</p><p></p><p>According to the <a href="https://www.healthycanning.com/green-tomato-canning-recipes" target="_blank">University of Wisconsin extension office</a>, it's also safe to substitute green tomatoes for tomatillos in tested safe canning recipes.</p><p><span class="fontstyle0">While millions of people have eaten green tomatoes without negative side effects, and while neither the USDA nor the Extension offices have expressed concern about canning or eating green tomatoes, Ball</span><span class="fontstyle0"> points out that unripe green tomatoes can contain something called </span><a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/neuroscience/solanine" target="_blank">solanine</a>, which, if eaten in large quantities, can be toxic. If you want to be extra careful, Ball recommends only eating darker green tomatoes, saving pale green ones (which, they say, are higher in solanine) for off-the-vine ripening.</p><p>Finally, while not all the Extension offices tout this idea, the <a href="https://foodsafety.wisc.edu/consumer/fact_sheets/LastSeason.pdf" target="_blank">University of Wisconsin</a> Extension office tells us to avoid canning tomatoes ripened off the vine because "<span class="fontstyle0">the proper acidity may not develop." On the other hand, the </span>USDA recommends that vine-ripened tomatoes are "preferable" for canning</p><p><span class="fontstyle0"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibA6CxDTciHep2vNyd2Rv9dgdHJspndurtZ_ZxkXx4DgbIuSeSFVXgYla8HF3O2OaaAhzTEOIGLLtolKEa9Hm0zyGIfFCNaebDxRx0lMxS3V17HJc3t_9oXjzG-oL_GRWEkQf1DXzbEDRhenPrKJdIE29T9AciVgsfQJmTezFgBuGUp2E-JFjpPW-ovCQ/s1564/greentomatoes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1080" height="437" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibA6CxDTciHep2vNyd2Rv9dgdHJspndurtZ_ZxkXx4DgbIuSeSFVXgYla8HF3O2OaaAhzTEOIGLLtolKEa9Hm0zyGIfFCNaebDxRx0lMxS3V17HJc3t_9oXjzG-oL_GRWEkQf1DXzbEDRhenPrKJdIE29T9AciVgsfQJmTezFgBuGUp2E-JFjpPW-ovCQ/w302-h437/greentomatoes.jpg" width="302" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Large and small quantities of unripe green tomatoes make wonderful food!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="fontstyle0"><br /> </span> <br /><p></p><p></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p> <span style="font-size: large;">Related Articles:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/01/how-to-grow-epic-tomatoes.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="265" data-original-width="400" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPC7PPEgLvWmgofYfmHczxiA06T3oyJSHm0vIg78TR2qxDaaHs_0UeMv3RN9aHCQaTVRtR66zcowe0oe3oNLebmGZvN0Z4WRmckMsKCUX2DKLufVhk6-DBvIGHv8Nm9yZsBturTrUQfDQWJhuzVYEsjCg_HRX_p9yMqAqr8tvs_gt5JdCe5sYuuK2aIj4/s320/How-to-Grow-Epic-Tomatoes.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/05/using-red-mulch-to-grow-more-tomatoes.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="429" data-original-width="286" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhA9SSl8nCgoHLlf1UakoG4SBydWc1YvFvgh7235dTl_2yx7gvWllMBUjMBBhnpMkXAe79clhqt8gKXKB-8bkjq4E7DK5t3byoZWfviiwlR9jOxa0lf5dppBEoPti9IYZxjKwGBseEV1iw2qEGQgW-UfKG0wPLSddM1tc10OS1p6RjyTDqJXzxqMGMWIY/w250-h376/Red-Mulch-to-Grow-More-Tomatoes.jpg" width="250" /></a></div><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/06/the-biggest-lie-about-growing-tomatoes.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="349" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYkpXD_aOMFk8MDoKzcgAaukiLeliO1INB5A56lte0iZwUa_oTjbFvUzB-LcUSmOP2pWpikUed8VkcG8rMoFbG6XV6vHFfuQ2-HMDw8vRVqHLe-6PfsdI4Qd5Ea5NhHBD_LljjLBi_GIPcxIb6GjZLPbl9oGT81U52OyhHjd8AHFBybOYJapflP486ewM/w223-h408/The-Biggest-Lie-About-Growing-Tomatoes.jpg" width="223" /></a></div><br /><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-83564818632289495302023-08-31T12:03:00.001-07:002024-02-15T10:59:15.314-08:00What to Look for in an Automatic Coop Door<p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXOLDdQljmcpVuY1RYeNltFuJcSSqKRb-sVViISZEPTx8lUakEdIIWOuBP6SzbvnhEPltKYEz_LoRTrVEU1oud2VfTMfE280ovFlEfgrkCFlhJOzRprhZ_K_f3YpSs6op39gvfRK6lwZB0oxxn77q0ZLlh9OGDHuu0WMK9oAG3yCO9uV9-dcHa_XCy4kY/s1500/What%20You%20Need%20in%20an%20Automatic%20Coop%20Door.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="What to Look for in an Automatic Coop Door" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="445" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXOLDdQljmcpVuY1RYeNltFuJcSSqKRb-sVViISZEPTx8lUakEdIIWOuBP6SzbvnhEPltKYEz_LoRTrVEU1oud2VfTMfE280ovFlEfgrkCFlhJOzRprhZ_K_f3YpSs6op39gvfRK6lwZB0oxxn77q0ZLlh9OGDHuu0WMK9oAG3yCO9uV9-dcHa_XCy4kY/w296-h445/What%20You%20Need%20in%20an%20Automatic%20Coop%20Door.jpg" title="needed features in an auto coop door" width="296" /></a></i></div><i><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. At no cost to you, I may earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p>A couple of years ago, I read <i><a href="https://amzn.to/3OXpa0I" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Wartime Kitchen and Garden</a></i> by Jennifer Davies (a book I highly recommend; <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLBRK5Tf1I4" target="_blank">the tv serie</a>s is great, too), and had to laugh out loud. In it, the author briefly notes that during "double summertime" (what we call Daylight Savings Time), one college girl remembered "finding her best friend, who was on the College's poultry course, sitting on the stairs weeping bitterly." Why? She hadn't just lost her home to a bombing - nor had she lost a loved one to the horrors of war. She was weeping "because the hens would not go to bed."</p><p>Oh yes! I've spent <i>many </i>summer evenings - exhausted from a long day on the homestead - desperately wanting to go to bed, but stuck staying up because the hens were not yet in their coop, safely locked away from predators. (If you've ever raised chickens, you know they don't head to bed until the sun begins setting...and that trying to herd chickens into a coop is <i>not </i>an activity to attempt when you are exhausted.) This is why I've always wanted an automatic chicken coop door - literally, a door that opens by itself in the morning, letting the flock out, and shuts itself securely at night, locking them up securely.</p><p>I did a lot of research over the years to determine what exactly I wanted in an auto coop door opener, and finally, after <a href="https://chickcozy.com/kristinaseleshanko" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chickcozy recently sent me their model</a>, I now have hands-on experience, too. If you're considering buying an automatic coop door, here are some things I believe are important to consider: <br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">1. How is it powered?</span></p><p>Many auto coop doors are battery operated, but some plug in to an outlet, and others are solar powered All of these power sources have their pros and cons. For example, batteries need replacing regularly - and in the case of an auto door, they must be replaced <i>before </i>they actually run out of "juice." (Doors that give a low battery light, like the <a href="https://chickcozy.com/kristinaseleshanko" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chickcozy </a>does, are a boon!) In addition, batteries don't always do well in cold weather, so you'll want to be sure you can use lithium disposable batteries (we recommend <a href="https://amzn.to/44wD4MU" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Energizer Ultimate lithium batts</a>). (Bonus: Lithium batteries, unlike alkaline batteries, do not leak - and a leaking battery will instantly ruin any electronics in your door.)<br /></p><p>Doors that plug in obviously require the coop be near an electrical outlet. But also consider that livestock may unplug the device, making it useless. Chickens will also peck at wiring, so the cord must be completely covered to prevent them from de-powering the door - or possibly causing an electrical fire.<br /></p><p>Solar panels require sun year round, which you may or may not have. And if your coop is in shade, solar might not work at all.<br /></p><p>If possible, search for an automatic coop door that offers at least two of these powering options; this way, you'll have a backup should the first system fail.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunRcQVEc-4X7dx57L0U-_WarLy04t-KZtpSCTANYqGgVlElgnTfi66D22wLZuMBE-VcvcJIzoPmGO9iFd8xJ5aW8ATy5vBZEy4B03rBSYHf2HKcSBTGWnLf6MjQsKz-tfQpDz0vNrb4uYx-rwTGWYnAiJZr3jCPhRHc7fw5GxBoIEuloCVPX_yNUcZ-I/s800/solar%20powered%20poultry%20coop%20door.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunRcQVEc-4X7dx57L0U-_WarLy04t-KZtpSCTANYqGgVlElgnTfi66D22wLZuMBE-VcvcJIzoPmGO9iFd8xJ5aW8ATy5vBZEy4B03rBSYHf2HKcSBTGWnLf6MjQsKz-tfQpDz0vNrb4uYx-rwTGWYnAiJZr3jCPhRHc7fw5GxBoIEuloCVPX_yNUcZ-I/w418-h314/solar%20powered%20poultry%20coop%20door.jpg" width="418" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A chicken coop with a solar powered automatic door. Courtesy of
<a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephanridgway/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1693504408589_2036" rel="author" title="Go to Stephan Ridgway’s photostream">Stephan Ridgway</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">2. How Adjustable Is It?</span></p><p>One thing I love about the <a href="https://chickcozy.com/kristinaseleshanko" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chickcozy </a>automatic coop door is that it's highly adjustable. You can use it with only a daylight sensor - or you can use a timer, set to open/close at a specific time of day. For the light sensor mode, you can add delay time to the opening and closing to ensure the door doesn't close too early in the evening or too early in the morning.<br /></p><p>Note that bright headlights from vehicles, house lights, and security lights may confuse the light sensor on auto coop doors, which could mean the door opens and exposes your chickens to predators in the middle of the night. Light sensors may also fail to open the coop door if it's a dark winter day.</p><p>If your hen house is in the shade, as ours is, a light sensor may pose different issues. Our auto door, had some problems with closing too early - <i>before </i>the chickens had gone to bed. Thankfully the Chickcozy allowed us to adjust the close light level, making the door less sensitive to the evening light change, thereby solving the problem.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">3. How Does the Door Open?</span></p><p>Does the door open by sliding from one side of the coop to the other or does it go up toward the roof? Does your chicken coop have room for whatever type of mechanism your chosen door has?</p><p>It's also good to note if the door uses mere gravity to shut, or if it uses a motor for this function. A motor offers a safer option for birds who might happen to be in the doorway as the door is shutting - assuming the door has a safety sensor that prevents the closure if a chicken is in the way. </p><p>Also pay attention to the size of the door; if you have a larger breed of bird, will they easily fit through?</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxAO5W3ACc7LrO7vh000ssAywNNIoclJ7-LNb_Ocv-NvEonYogPCVdi9el0SqN12iuakmKGDMgTncrKA57bkQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><i> Testing our Chickcozy door's safety sensor.</i><br /></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">4. How Difficult is the Installation?</span><br /></p><p>Some auto chicken coop doors install very easily: You just screw the door frame into the opening of your chicken coop. (Of course, that opening has to be the right size for your door, so it's possible a little carpentry to make that happen will be necessary.) Other door installations might be more complex, even requiring some wiring skill. Before you buy, ensure you're comfortable with the level of expertise needed to install the door. Most manufactures allow you to download the door's manual online, so you can see exactly what installation is required.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">5. Is it Weather Proof?</span></p><p>Not only can cold weather affect the performance of auto door openers (see #1, above), but all electronics must be weather proof. If the manufacturer doesn't state that the control panel, for instance, is weather proof, it's best to find a different product.</p><p>You may also wish to note whether or not the door's plastic is UV stable. If it's not, your door will likely need replacing a few years down the road - but this may be acceptable to you, depending on the upfront cost of the door.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcaXCuxMMc98I-KRo_tHsLREL2PV9C_4CCLNhCtxjpJlQLrQ9gbcAOCnYv4vKVEzUHGv4Ak0A3RRJTz_r-iTKHQ7Yxa2z7pCXdTlavkk8sxaRidCSlgmAgzHkjVcx1WlfCTizbWcbeB-x_PYBt8s7TaSjx9m822Mbt2QDHDevTWLouG-ckPM4TlRfQ4M/s3949/Chickcozy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3949" data-original-width="2790" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcaXCuxMMc98I-KRo_tHsLREL2PV9C_4CCLNhCtxjpJlQLrQ9gbcAOCnYv4vKVEzUHGv4Ak0A3RRJTz_r-iTKHQ7Yxa2z7pCXdTlavkk8sxaRidCSlgmAgzHkjVcx1WlfCTizbWcbeB-x_PYBt8s7TaSjx9m822Mbt2QDHDevTWLouG-ckPM4TlRfQ4M/w257-h364/Chickcozy.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Our new flock, adjusting to the Chickcozy automatic door.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">A Few Other Tips:</span><br /></p><p>It will take time for your flock to adjust to an automatic door. For instance, when we first installed ours, instead of running out the door as soon as it was opened (our flock's usual behavior), our chickens took several minutes to come outside each morning. With time, the flock grew used to the door, and soon they were rushing outside again, just like they used to.<br /></p><p>You should also expect that it will take some time to adjust the settings on your door and get them just right. It took us about a week to ensure our door was closing only after all our chickens were in the coop. (During that time, some chickens were getting locked out; expect to go check on your flock every night until you get the settings right.)</p><p>Finally, be aware that no matter the model you choose, the groove along the floor of the door will probably require daily cleaning in order for the door to function properly. We find that just giving the groove a swipe or two when we go out to feed and water our flock is quick, easy, and effective. This is definitely more of a problem in the wet, muddy months. <b><u>UPDATE 2-15-24:</u></b> Cleaning the door grove with a quick sweep worked fine until winter hit - and with it lots of rain and mud. Unfortunately, we've found we can't rely on the auto door to close at this time of the year; maybe a door with a stronger motor would work...but then it might close on a lingering chicken, too.<br /></p><p>We've had our <a href="https://chickcozy.com/kristinaseleshanko" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chickcozy </a>automatic coop door for over a month now, and so far, we couldn't be more pleased with it. If you think you might like a Chickcozy door for your flock, use this COUPON CODE at checkout for a 5% discount: <b>kristinaseleshanko. </b><a href="https://chickcozy.com/kristinaseleshanko" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Click here to order the door or learn more about it</a>.</p><p> </p><p><b>RELATED POSTS:</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/01/my-chickens-arent-laying-what-can-i-do.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="344" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs__0UCMCbOIgg6HYIZkkehCTQBEbaMelACsTZpzbSLs4oeBBotKnd4a1VtbR-kV4T1c6-cloa52NtRQbj-fALq1OGrI-qyD79dJUBC-nFEZ4UP_iSTZpbi8kcxMZKU_OD3iHwOTuw9U7MHkWv2Wkw9Puei01XNYqrhmblGi-CvIqaxcdKiYCa_yzuboY/s320/When%20Chickens%20Arent%20Laying%20Eggs.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/01/comparing-quail-eggs-and-chicken-eggs.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="448" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlUIn2jrgunFeWj7O_DXGKl1_w0bWi0tGySEhn_2WJwzYpnMzfD2HMbS1mouoIUTa2TmHELk4wAth9xeL2JQpQ654TPTNhSj6KD9niC2M3V0iH1Y18gc2IpNYLytGQyfkHCbVxgREyuOyHdv7VLOflTLcezEuM0iKCrF8Dau3-p1SSkmUqR8GAave804U/s320/Quail%20Eggs%20vs%20Chicken%20Eggs.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/04/how-to-hatch-chicks-with-broody-hen.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4UJxoJOFbKeavCfuxTLQLZTCYVl9liEJaJBJuPUXAsAYx9h9j_nz3MSGqPaD6E1jPnNS_OKJHwok0r-cLTtyEVf3OPyF0tX2Ld7sQecWbY5FqmhHZ4EG4do-nz-e009xtG9NUoZE-ZTRgeUv4o_L3IyvXYAgggEQDMSIwrv5nbGJ39meNPNzDcOSrlg/s320/How-to-Hatch-Chicks-with-a-Broody-Hen.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2021/06/raising-meat-when-you-dont-have-acerage.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="266" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzeyHtrxQ-W82NXUcnS39dHK6XO4Tu01vSVWnqo6VQU4lR9oRJKzV0sVfE5dFIeqyyyraS1L-fNSVVSNau9drB2gQUk22l69lOVhskUcG3DunmGICrdhXttAjXcd5QTJK4D3fsdDy_TmZr_Dv2wdZyBZFgPLJrgirhktj9ieqZXfLKxd_7BlmrAh6j5hc/s320/Raising-Meat-When-You-Dont-Have-Acreage.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>* Cover image courtesy of <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/usdagov/9301799134/" target="_blank">The U.S. Department of Agriculture.</a></i></span><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-29208285256987076012023-08-21T11:42:00.002-07:002023-08-31T12:09:21.116-07:00Summer on the Homestead<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></i></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJQXkKc4i_IrJn6EH0AUKpiBnCrmN5a7Uyu1RN_NPtudE4UIhTp98ymrSeUz6aMHEF9Tx_62Iww_GK62-H4eVTIRlHHq0L5sow66HuFAhogd-TacGsk534Pb0s075gSTn-J2xE8piZ-wAt0RVYsr1x63Fx6dHWVdooZwgfk6qGsnEV3S-g2dysG_j_68/s2048/vegetable%20garden.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1061" height="692" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJQXkKc4i_IrJn6EH0AUKpiBnCrmN5a7Uyu1RN_NPtudE4UIhTp98ymrSeUz6aMHEF9Tx_62Iww_GK62-H4eVTIRlHHq0L5sow66HuFAhogd-TacGsk534Pb0s075gSTn-J2xE8piZ-wAt0RVYsr1x63Fx6dHWVdooZwgfk6qGsnEV3S-g2dysG_j_68/w359-h692/vegetable%20garden.jpg" width="359" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The garden this summer.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. As
an Amazon Associate, and at no cost to you, I earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></i> </p><p><span style="font-size: x-small;">"For I consider that the sufferings of this present time are not worth comparing with the glory that is to be revealed to us. "</span></p><p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=romans+8&version=NIV" target="_blank">Romans 8:18</a></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span>_______________________<br /></p><p>It's been a while since I've updated you on homestead happenings; in fact, I completely omitted a spring update! This was because I had the worst allergies <i>ever </i>this spring; I had to resort to taking Allegra in the morning and Benadryl at night. It certainly made homesteading difficult, since I was trying to stay inside and the allergies themselves made me super tired, but I did get all the essential spring work done. However, I completely ignored my flower beds, so now they are a weedy mess. </p><p>A more fun thing has also eaten up a good deal of my time: I'm rehearsing for the role of Mary Poppins in a local musical theater production. Some of you may know that once upon a time, I was a professional singer and actress. That was many years ago...and frankly, I haven't done a lot of theater since my kids were born, so I'm thrilled to be working on this challenging production. Nevertheless, six rehearsals a week is catching up with me.</p><p>Maybe that's why my body has been rebelling. I usually suffer from pretty severe hip pain in the spring and fall (my hips were never the same after pregnancy bedrest), but this year, it's been all summer, too. In addition, my abdominal adhesion (from having two C-sections) has really been acting up severely. Then, a couple of weekends ago, I woke up with what I think was a pinched nerve in my back - a new ailment for me. (All these aches and pains are much better now; THANK YOU to those who saw my post on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ProverbsThirtyOneWomanBlog/" target="_blank">Facebook </a>and prayed for me.)<br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSwNvKb893AwFPsrogjvZzGlvampXXG4Nu5gq-MbuR94EsKY6ZogYo8fIQZobzqxEtFkNWEPWdE4vs4ZBF05a998lI3ydojBZbCaJtlCII9jWAqrvwxRTbXbKCUoVe8CZxLCnwNgNDEAiU5IQFnsOhtlZTSX0kbiqQuRCF5JLgTj4c8SMCVxLvx3KrPM/s1526/harvest.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1526" data-original-width="1080" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSwNvKb893AwFPsrogjvZzGlvampXXG4Nu5gq-MbuR94EsKY6ZogYo8fIQZobzqxEtFkNWEPWdE4vs4ZBF05a998lI3ydojBZbCaJtlCII9jWAqrvwxRTbXbKCUoVe8CZxLCnwNgNDEAiU5IQFnsOhtlZTSX0kbiqQuRCF5JLgTj4c8SMCVxLvx3KrPM/w266-h376/harvest.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Zucchini, green beans, jalapenos, and patty pan squash.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>Due to cooler than typical weather, the garden got off to quite a slow start, but thankfully now it's producing plenty. I currently have lots of summer squash, cucumbers, Walla Walla onions, cabbages, kale, collards, turnips, beets, green beans, and kohlrabi for harvesting. Soon, they'll be more snow peas, broccoli, cauliflower, and winter squash to harvest. </p><p>Speaking of squash, much of mine got off to a rocky start. This was because a lot of my garden expansion (which was largely designed to make room for more winter squash) included bringing in new soil, which was a bit "hot" (i.e., still composting). At first, I thought the cooler weather was preventing my squash from growing (and it probably did contribute), but I soon realized my squash plants were suffering from a lack of nitrogen. I began fertilizing on overcast mornings, and now those plants are catching up. Only time will tell if I get mature winter squash before the first hard frost.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtHrcKHz3F6gSTAl3TwK8p5BIWvDuoYp5jFRPR7vdhUnqUvve-VwyUr7sk6y84Cb-7TJyLEkwuxD41mpVMERZS7vgrM0nwvRH89fNWVbPGCOFKCVMa4SMUwPJTs7ZSt_xtFZ60edtmTLKn_IGVtV8wQLhmMyMl5f5bTSYY2mLr3z7wDdNjN0Pj0PE-hc/s1440/buttercup%20squash.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtHrcKHz3F6gSTAl3TwK8p5BIWvDuoYp5jFRPR7vdhUnqUvve-VwyUr7sk6y84Cb-7TJyLEkwuxD41mpVMERZS7vgrM0nwvRH89fNWVbPGCOFKCVMa4SMUwPJTs7ZSt_xtFZ60edtmTLKn_IGVtV8wQLhmMyMl5f5bTSYY2mLr3z7wDdNjN0Pj0PE-hc/s320/buttercup%20squash.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The buttercup squash has been thriving!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn_Ng-r27kff-fa9c7hvS3A104lZFXC8vzq-tiQIDqcj_saynJNgG53yd8sni4sZ3pRggx-fpAQfONEjHM1S37LDKhXpfrakngulLBFB4o3em_21dqJnNtzA3AJbUkLZQPoPBwJ6Ss6ccwBOg7UZ-4h-1HrmAw9eiVlOTqrCw8H21fFBxgRQBNZsW3Moc/s1440/early%20harvest.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn_Ng-r27kff-fa9c7hvS3A104lZFXC8vzq-tiQIDqcj_saynJNgG53yd8sni4sZ3pRggx-fpAQfONEjHM1S37LDKhXpfrakngulLBFB4o3em_21dqJnNtzA3AJbUkLZQPoPBwJ6Ss6ccwBOg7UZ-4h-1HrmAw9eiVlOTqrCw8H21fFBxgRQBNZsW3Moc/s320/early%20harvest.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A spring harvest of broccoli, turnips, green beans, and snow peas.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju74P9ZpELfUUp-s9naS5qZt7gLE9SbejUWRSYPCdzQI689a4MDa6Y_6MPYBfDIQ1g9P7Qh4vD7zPJFpJOdm6dZMBCodr7e4WJbPnvVVe6tDvcCff38CR_yMpNsfmDoPO_ftRApD9s-ir6uJd0EKFMdHC3C0qzxtpLYW_jTJcZQ5VqGks86bZcxTw6yKk/s2048/turnips.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1153" data-original-width="2048" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju74P9ZpELfUUp-s9naS5qZt7gLE9SbejUWRSYPCdzQI689a4MDa6Y_6MPYBfDIQ1g9P7Qh4vD7zPJFpJOdm6dZMBCodr7e4WJbPnvVVe6tDvcCff38CR_yMpNsfmDoPO_ftRApD9s-ir6uJd0EKFMdHC3C0qzxtpLYW_jTJcZQ5VqGks86bZcxTw6yKk/w391-h220/turnips.jpg" width="391" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Thems some turnips!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p>Part of the garden expansion was also to accommodate Egyptian walking onions, which I will plant this fall. These are multiplier onions, meaning small bulbs grow at the top of the leaf stalks, the stalk bends down, and the little bulbs on top root into the soil. The idea here is that I should never have to buy onion seeds or starts again. Alas, I still feel like I need more room to plant a section for garlic, not to mention the raspberry plants I really want to grow. Perhaps next year.</p><p>This year in the greenhouse, I chose to only plant one cherry tomato, and then filled the rest of the space with bell peppers (Early Wonder), a store bought jalapeno plant, and some eggplants (Millionaire). I've been very pleased with the results! I would get little, if anything, out of these plants if I grew them outside, but they've been pretty prolific in the greenhouse.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvPv-OPf8Sn2V7soo2lzyAmEThqY7yEGsvXR7PXenNVx3hIq4-sGTkSRCs2OhQCYJ6uFzlXIPqZkj5uADczVdyUyULzSwZFcvbckQh58ay9fzYIy8Uh5IOte0mEZtLIgAO6jyronveRA07kx8CboWLPfV1p2QmA7C1zl6Ub7UOHBstW_RJ34A1i5c-8g/s1261/bell%20peppers.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1261" data-original-width="1080" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvPv-OPf8Sn2V7soo2lzyAmEThqY7yEGsvXR7PXenNVx3hIq4-sGTkSRCs2OhQCYJ6uFzlXIPqZkj5uADczVdyUyULzSwZFcvbckQh58ay9fzYIy8Uh5IOte0mEZtLIgAO6jyronveRA07kx8CboWLPfV1p2QmA7C1zl6Ub7UOHBstW_RJ34A1i5c-8g/w311-h363/bell%20peppers.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Peppers from the greenhouse.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGz9fgirrvrf-DAKSF77X5NxO266g10oxyblJLNB8JDTlBlrycjgW88G_zl26GxLzybISz6IVDtF1uoJ5fwuV7X1Mj2_YmHIvvzb46vgu-Sd9NSUUhLts3yzxlumKt16jfAdMIw2wtp0NvxKN-7zdBc07-7YrsZU_nPVCSKpYPGg_IAmmDqvXK_gFDhwQ/s1080/broccoli.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGz9fgirrvrf-DAKSF77X5NxO266g10oxyblJLNB8JDTlBlrycjgW88G_zl26GxLzybISz6IVDtF1uoJ5fwuV7X1Mj2_YmHIvvzb46vgu-Sd9NSUUhLts3yzxlumKt16jfAdMIw2wtp0NvxKN-7zdBc07-7YrsZU_nPVCSKpYPGg_IAmmDqvXK_gFDhwQ/w337-h337/broccoli.jpg" width="337" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Freeze drying some of the broccoli harvest.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEVfUC5e0OvHGmGdiZCcZJiZAAlh28-Fy5x42dEy76Nal5nb5J6qfNrd126GFn47e2v6yCA9A8AvAc5Mz2ubgokJAu1dKmAW7abVP255dRqaHSN3aL-lcNkB5VD5jheVQmZlH9j79bVTkbCWndKXXeuE5LpxjhgVFtHl37uFjp32vLVPdT3pEmOBNULc/s1350/zoodles.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEVfUC5e0OvHGmGdiZCcZJiZAAlh28-Fy5x42dEy76Nal5nb5J6qfNrd126GFn47e2v6yCA9A8AvAc5Mz2ubgokJAu1dKmAW7abVP255dRqaHSN3aL-lcNkB5VD5jheVQmZlH9j79bVTkbCWndKXXeuE5LpxjhgVFtHl37uFjp32vLVPdT3pEmOBNULc/s320/zoodles.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Dehydrated zucchini noodles.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>On the animal front, we've had ups and downs. I lost my favorite doe, the beautiful Japanese Harlequin Fiona, this winter. I loved that sweet rabbit, and I felt her loss deeply. But I was glad that I had children from her - two beautiful, big magpie does: Chocolate and Vanilla. Chocolate has already given me several litters, including the most beautiful litter of rabbits (lots of magpies and one Japanese harlequin included!). Her sister Vanilla, however, miscarried her first litter and after she gave birth to her second litter - in the wee hours of the morning - she died. I tried to save her litter by giving them to another doe (Clyde) who had 8 week olds and was still nursing. Although Clyde adopted those kits as if they were her own, they died. I'm not really sure why, but I wonder if it's because Clyde didn't have colostrum. I haven't been able to find any reliable information on this topic.</p><p>(Some people wonder why I didn't give the kits milk replacer. You can, indeed, feed kits goat milk replacer, but it requires a lot of time - you have to feed them with a sponge to prevent aspiration - and the results often lead to kit death anyway. This is because rabbit kits eat their mother's milk and manure (cecotropes) in order to get the digestive enzymes needed to properly digest any solid food. Therefore, hand fed kits often die upon weaning.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyXW1tn0jZxAxsMMZgdPooQQehcBmwXMKTYMs_ZKeDdUD0pcVnF2hYTW42ZgLvsFWXreZlfBdu7Yzw1KeYAfc1ALw8t3hWHw84GM3MSt9SR886DhPZWtptu5kK0555KN0BEAkYJmmg506GkKcv71PSF6iXtPDgyk4TD8g4TahpDRjTO5rWojBw3OGhV1c/s960/rabbit%20kit.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="669" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyXW1tn0jZxAxsMMZgdPooQQehcBmwXMKTYMs_ZKeDdUD0pcVnF2hYTW42ZgLvsFWXreZlfBdu7Yzw1KeYAfc1ALw8t3hWHw84GM3MSt9SR886DhPZWtptu5kK0555KN0BEAkYJmmg506GkKcv71PSF6iXtPDgyk4TD8g4TahpDRjTO5rWojBw3OGhV1c/w281-h403/rabbit%20kit.jpg" width="281" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Such cuteness!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFeaV34afeUkXd8VHxqYSluPlXe9Ad1oR95ziggvLvqGrQW37Qdq5-B_J27PBtk93_DqlJlzCVa0QAeGFTJE4ag7yd39-wWWGBhIvw1PaDcEd80VSPiRTCj0pfQYql_spm7oUcQ1_mAiKErkTwy6qIJdZPnMUsXZK5mX0NrOohFcR1y28MFr-nm9pEfY/s1316/rabbit%20kits.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1316" data-original-width="1080" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFeaV34afeUkXd8VHxqYSluPlXe9Ad1oR95ziggvLvqGrQW37Qdq5-B_J27PBtk93_DqlJlzCVa0QAeGFTJE4ag7yd39-wWWGBhIvw1PaDcEd80VSPiRTCj0pfQYql_spm7oUcQ1_mAiKErkTwy6qIJdZPnMUsXZK5mX0NrOohFcR1y28MFr-nm9pEfY/w289-h352/rabbit%20kits.jpg" width="289" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>De babies.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>Our chickens are on the older side and have definitely slowed down their egg laying, so we recently incubated some of our neighbor's chicken eggs. They are "barn yard mix" birds, which is new for us. (We've always raised pure breeds.) They are thriving, and nearly ready to go live outside.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGGmuqTqBzE9lsBnTpiDGemmJt6beeN5t25EN_zoposvtAXb92MUQiwxmNNjxSfWucV3KWxb3c9Jea1sbDABOa1d8lUPZE2M6aFFJUHMiHbKvlT4EtooaYmYbW6mzwM1Gap3EPofEQgWNirZp9jWWsIUIzXzAGa6e3sGsUf6Y-AdmSFbWv15TiqHmSuuc/s960/chicks.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="628" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGGmuqTqBzE9lsBnTpiDGemmJt6beeN5t25EN_zoposvtAXb92MUQiwxmNNjxSfWucV3KWxb3c9Jea1sbDABOa1d8lUPZE2M6aFFJUHMiHbKvlT4EtooaYmYbW6mzwM1Gap3EPofEQgWNirZp9jWWsIUIzXzAGa6e3sGsUf6Y-AdmSFbWv15TiqHmSuuc/w253-h387/chicks.jpg" width="253" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>One of our prettier barnyard mix chicks.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>We're hoping to build a new hen house for them, since our old one is starting to fall apart, but until then, we've been very happy to install an <a href="https://chickcozy.com/kristinaseleshanko" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">automatic door opener/closer</a>, which is something we've wanted for a very long time. <a href="https://chickcozy.com/kristinaseleshanko" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chickcozy </a>sent me one, and I must say, we are loving it! Soon I will write an entire post about what to look for in an auto hen house door opener/closer, so stay tuned!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dywjaNNKpL88aIf0-m8YLrIWuaaFYAmiQFxWnFQV_pO8SD6Gc5uU3aoxjT8rCOVL1syuikjkkTezZs8VMVUvA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /> <p></p><p>As for the quail, they are still leading their crazy lives and giving us eggs and meat. And we are still hoping to someday put up a barn so that we can have sheep and other, bigger livestock again soon. (Our original flock was eaten by the local bear population.) I have no idea when that might happen, though.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijAkIgQTE9gMwfL_taaP_4ck3tcvTYUkBUmDQ1wpLuWnoEOfXydQMHptwko_4m-tfvnr_1gxiZo0epVrDpGj6lheqIMuFFd0Mi3UOvwRVHWVgHmFasb5zP-L9Fh1Kok25k9-BG6wG0OK4B7_zKE8lqiDO4HMcieRx7ChSkGA_KGyDpXcbJhh2d5vMpE84/s1118/tomatoes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1118" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijAkIgQTE9gMwfL_taaP_4ck3tcvTYUkBUmDQ1wpLuWnoEOfXydQMHptwko_4m-tfvnr_1gxiZo0epVrDpGj6lheqIMuFFd0Mi3UOvwRVHWVgHmFasb5zP-L9Fh1Kok25k9-BG6wG0OK4B7_zKE8lqiDO4HMcieRx7ChSkGA_KGyDpXcbJhh2d5vMpE84/s320/tomatoes.jpg" width="309" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Waiting (impatiently) for tomatoes to ripen.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><i><br /></i><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdmr-7gUaKztzFX6xQ-J7Aj7qMJ36eTNBIa8IXGUpxLfi0M6vuHu3kGGPIhastPJ62AP91aJ98E7MrIXZ7SdBBhJh8C7O081_UKeQ5iMdbpfvCxkZdbeAk3sETjH-qesxr5mZsyIimbUPKPUZYuzIHp2Toji1Wuw3PXRPUogrzVATZK-vDwNUhQthJnwM/s1918/dill%20pickles.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1918" data-original-width="1080" height="473" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdmr-7gUaKztzFX6xQ-J7Aj7qMJ36eTNBIa8IXGUpxLfi0M6vuHu3kGGPIhastPJ62AP91aJ98E7MrIXZ7SdBBhJh8C7O081_UKeQ5iMdbpfvCxkZdbeAk3sETjH-qesxr5mZsyIimbUPKPUZYuzIHp2Toji1Wuw3PXRPUogrzVATZK-vDwNUhQthJnwM/w266-h473/dill%20pickles.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Making dill pickles.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxv3ZGJT0Y5u4uihDCT2G8HwhBX7ZW2jy53yAUzkdHe9t9ZUQ3Zqsm92mTGIo2Wt2Qh5lhoI-o6V2tp7VKWjD6Ajanin9tG7aY1yAnOQGG0VYNZxVh3FGoDPgemr0Gbma74HHgBZYk2CLKCOcT5_aLJbW6yrtBU4cGZkRdkCDSiOVzoH3MhE_A4-AttYg/s1477/zucchini%20pickles.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="1477" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxv3ZGJT0Y5u4uihDCT2G8HwhBX7ZW2jy53yAUzkdHe9t9ZUQ3Zqsm92mTGIo2Wt2Qh5lhoI-o6V2tp7VKWjD6Ajanin9tG7aY1yAnOQGG0VYNZxVh3FGoDPgemr0Gbma74HHgBZYk2CLKCOcT5_aLJbW6yrtBU4cGZkRdkCDSiOVzoH3MhE_A4-AttYg/w429-h181/zucchini%20pickles.jpg" width="429" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Zucchini and patty pan squash pickles.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_Op55QVYu7dhnlVs0y2mFms8HrJtdPRT5-E98If0kSZqXiZnYZFUXYyzseTdN12fH9P10thCuCOiwL_xOoKZpZV-I09fQy4v6IcxCvI_9ThxNWUoSPb5Dz9AyyhFEfY0KdiAsoEQEsj-OrP1ldxxJODNV2Kop84hnLvqcxCubLSyVxqrkm6pj6W62x4/s1918/dill.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1918" data-original-width="1080" height="501" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_Op55QVYu7dhnlVs0y2mFms8HrJtdPRT5-E98If0kSZqXiZnYZFUXYyzseTdN12fH9P10thCuCOiwL_xOoKZpZV-I09fQy4v6IcxCvI_9ThxNWUoSPb5Dz9AyyhFEfY0KdiAsoEQEsj-OrP1ldxxJODNV2Kop84hnLvqcxCubLSyVxqrkm6pj6W62x4/w282-h501/dill.jpg" width="282" /></a></i></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fresh dill for pickles...and beneficial insects!</i><b><i><br /></i></b></td></tr></tbody></table><b><i> </i></b><p></p><p><b><i>RELATED POSTS:</i></b></p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/05/freeze-dried-vs-dehydrated-food-whats.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="218" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASt9LT4RL9wWrI1RUCUGhD4Qhv2k-oEpaKZyMFjavFF5zdVgvgP4gIC-bedChUfqBq7t1sMMLH_MG3rZM--6eE1OUIBiVIy5tCMIgaYCkHnAQT6SkoJ_s-IidWZxS1jNZQs8AtXkjE_44rhZiQvpHQBnmXOvcyaTW09jcA2iA4xN0qw2MefJVCwyY-mQ/w211-h388/Freeze-Drying-vs-Dehydrating-Food.jpg" width="211" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/03/how-to-dehydrate-zoodles-other.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="391" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgs8nTwwkx3dFpaEHIcBox0ElIaDB36ixO5qtUvzmQmGAp1anVcU6qQMGsibsyReFEXZrnoW3ftCTpOf1MLKWfxknK2sEnnHl6na_NAfOREJg26fZkqKoEB1xI5mqdNDa9pfgctyPhorZXT--L-TRD6rCibWs0-rFIlJr_hoRpDR4jY-vJBjZeCfIQ08/w223-h364/How-to-Dehydrate-Zoodles.jpg" width="223" /></a><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/09/how-to-preserve-summer-squash-canning.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="454" data-original-width="302" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtcIFuOeyH5GAnNTb-bwxSq7LyB9rb-arc9ZfrjiDgwPs20Qbnl2nPrLrfSd6B-ihs2O0vnfTog_BnZgmzVKxbw_NpY7FHfPcFitw19nPb9Xps8oi14SEgpLmkt5P4b8HXenf-S-vAnRixGVxF2GeUdRjEE0ieVbX1RRqtRK_ppG8n0eDA4bBA12mpkmc/s320/How-to-Preserve-Summer-Squash.jpg" width="213" /></a></div></div><br /><i><br /></i><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-43910342284916639112023-07-20T12:51:00.000-07:002023-07-20T12:51:17.659-07:00Growing Vegetables in the Winter (HINT: Start Now!)<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Xgf7nt1i81n3VNf-YnWF7bSuxFDRjg17YA67YvSfrd9-hfauEmwbHNtBMXcMQWlA1sVDbyPcI2kxG-Ek9ee54WrB7rfCq-pgkhichguY52fquuX7kd7prIjfCWA3cXvjwTu80G4aMfbDCYKOubkxIR3Loha7YiagTKQpeFWAe7MormVQDCbUf37jT_c/s1500/Growing-Vegetables-in-the-Winter..jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Growing Vegetables in Winter" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Xgf7nt1i81n3VNf-YnWF7bSuxFDRjg17YA67YvSfrd9-hfauEmwbHNtBMXcMQWlA1sVDbyPcI2kxG-Ek9ee54WrB7rfCq-pgkhichguY52fquuX7kd7prIjfCWA3cXvjwTu80G4aMfbDCYKOubkxIR3Loha7YiagTKQpeFWAe7MormVQDCbUf37jT_c/w278-h418/Growing-Vegetables-in-the-Winter..jpg" title="Winter Garden for Vegetables" width="278" /></a><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. As
an Amazon Associate, and at no cost to you, I earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i></div><p><i> </i><br /><b><i><u>PLEASE NOTE:</u></i></b> While it may seem odd to publish a piece about winter gardening in the middle of July, <i>now</i> is actually the time to begin planning your winter (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/07/how-to-start-fall-garden-in-july.html" target="_blank">or fall</a>) garden. Read on for more information!<br /></p><p> </p><p>When I first started homesteading, my goal was to grow all my family's vegetables, eating lots of them fresh in the late spring, summer, and fall, and preserving the rest for winter and early spring food. It was a lofty goal, to be sure - more ambitious than I realized at the time. And it's really only been in the last few years that I've learned to truly appreciate winter gardening and the fact that I don't <i>need </i>to spend countless hours preserving veggies for the "off-season." Instead, I can pluck vegetables directly out of our garden in the midst of winter. </p><p></p><p>But...growing vegetables in winter? <i>Surely that's not possible? </i>Ah, my friends, it's completely doable - and <i><u>without </u></i>a fancy hothouse or supplemental lighting! As organic market gardening guru Eliot Coleman writes in his book <a href="https://amzn.to/3XZspbW" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><i>The Winter Harvest Handbook</i></a>, "It's a misconception that all vegetable crops need summerlike temperatures for best growth...Not only do many of them tolerate cold conditions and even temperatures well below freezing...they actually thrive and are sweeter, tenderer, and more flavorful" when grown in winter. </p><p>Although it astonishes many, a good portion of people in the United States can grow vegetables in winter without much effort. If you're in USDA gardening zones 5 and up, the vegetables I mention in this article should do well in your winter garden. But even if your winter temperatures drop below -15 degrees F., these plants will still grow for you; they'll just need some added protection to survive. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie8YMiBJIP8pQFKHk5sH5V5Jfz4SmXmGl-JM9y0J9gWWJha5IjjfD2n5Kr4ielfz3jsAoXztZFy3XSaOzsldjuS2k1Jxg5ESTgCU5NaGWhPirEyrvTrztaBYqXxQaAGKC8jWuOtfE-Btm2QMKyPw6N590b9Y8secNpY-Of-6O_DRmJ1MbJYf5JQMVbHLw/s2048/winter%20kale.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie8YMiBJIP8pQFKHk5sH5V5Jfz4SmXmGl-JM9y0J9gWWJha5IjjfD2n5Kr4ielfz3jsAoXztZFy3XSaOzsldjuS2k1Jxg5ESTgCU5NaGWhPirEyrvTrztaBYqXxQaAGKC8jWuOtfE-Btm2QMKyPw6N590b9Y8secNpY-Of-6O_DRmJ1MbJYf5JQMVbHLw/s320/winter%20kale.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fresh kale harvested during a snowy winter.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">How Much Protection Does Your Winter Garden Need? </span></p><p>For winter gardening, it helps tremendously to choose slower-growing varieties, as these plants tend to have more resistance to frost and snow. Therefore, instead of choosing, say, Lancelot leeks (which mature in a relatively speedy 70 days), you might instead select Giant Musselburgh (which takes 105 days to reach maturity). For most plants mentioned in this article, I've suggested varieties that are suitable for winter gardening - but don't feel these are the only varieties you can grow during winter. When looking at seed catalogs, you can spot potential winter garden varieties by looking for longer-growing types that have "winter" in their name, are noted as being cultivated in a cold region (such as Alaska or Russia), or are described as "cold hardy." </p><p>Also, even if you live in a gardening zone where winter gardens are a breeze, keep an eye on your local weather. If temperatures drop below 25 degrees F. and are expected to stay there - or drop even further - it's important to mulch over your plants. When a thick layer of straw or dry leaves is applied over soil that isn't already frozen, and also placed over growing plants, the mulch significantly warms the vegetables, preventing damage from cold. </p><p>If you live up North and get many feet of snow each winter, you're probably not eager to trek outside and shovel that snow in order to harvest a few carrots. So I recommend that you get creative. For example, while an unheated greenhouse or hoop house might be ideal, a few <a href="https://amzn.to/44OCbjp" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">cold frames</a>, <a href="https://amzn.to/3OkhaHZ" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">low tunnels</a> (sometimes called polytunnels), or <a href="https://amzn.to/3NZnsLF" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">cloches </a>can give you a nice supply of fresh veggies for winter. Even putting a few pots in a sheltered area, like your covered porch, may give you a place to winter garden without much fuss. </p><p>No matter where you live, though, it's best to avoid picking food from your garden when the soil is frozen solid. In some cases (collards, come to mind) this might be okay if you're going to cook and eat the food immediately. But generally speaking, it's better to wait to harvest until freezing temperatures have passed and the plants thaw naturally in situ. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDHXKxlmJuywy-Vi2BZdrKFSk8-xD1tZ8B01nolXoyiYILyYHI-ClAmzS_f5vbjh3GSfTEza76I4hjArSwzd_iecmiqquwSdB1jGD6s-1Zts00s4Ik0yqzp1rLR8AN8N1YxflBerBEaRrY8g0HyEwZcKn6Qna7CG28YbF6xLR2Y689ofbIc-uXGJEPcWY/s2048/winter%20vegetable%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDHXKxlmJuywy-Vi2BZdrKFSk8-xD1tZ8B01nolXoyiYILyYHI-ClAmzS_f5vbjh3GSfTEza76I4hjArSwzd_iecmiqquwSdB1jGD6s-1Zts00s4Ik0yqzp1rLR8AN8N1YxflBerBEaRrY8g0HyEwZcKn6Qna7CG28YbF6xLR2Y689ofbIc-uXGJEPcWY/w282-h376/winter%20vegetable%20garden.jpg" width="282" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>While much of my garden is dormant during winter, I still harvest plenty of fresh veggies.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Timing Is Everything </span></p><p>The key to making winter gardening work is to get your seeds or seedlings in the ground long before winter. The natural decrease in light in winter means that plants do little to no growing during these months. Instead, they just sit there, in a sort of hibernation, waiting to be harvested (or waiting to go to seed when spring comes). Therefore, aim to have your winter crops at full maturity when daylight drops to 10 hours or less per day. (This is sometimes called "The Persephone Period," referencing Greek methodology's harvest goddess, Persephone.) If your crops are at about 75% maturity when the Persephone Period begins, they won't reach full maturity until there are more than 10 hours of daylight available.<br /></p><p>You can learn when your Persephone Period is by looking at the sunrise and sunset dates for your area; <a href="https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/extension-search" target="_blank">your local extension office</a> can provide this information, as can many weather apps. Next, check your seed packets for each plant variety's "days to maturity;" use that figure to count backward from the start of your Persephone Period. Finally, add 2 or 3 weeks as a hedge against slow growth. This date is the very last day you should plant that crop for your winter garden. </p><p>Do note that once the Persephone Period ends, winter vegetables are likely to bolt (i.e., grow flowers and go to seed), which tends to make the edible parts of the plant bitter or woody. You can delay this problem by cutting off any flower buds as soon as they appear. However, once bolting begins, it's time to harvest (and perhaps preserve) as much as possible before the plants become good only for livestock or the compost pile. Perhaps it's specific to my region, but I also find that once the Persephone Period ends, aphids tend to attack my bolting plants. I deal with this by promptly giving our chickens affected leaves or whole plants. This stops pests in their tracks - and gives my hens a much-loved winter treat. (For more tips on dealing with aphids, s<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/06/organic-pest-control-what-really-works.html" target="_blank">ee this article on organic pest control</a>.)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuYfzeoNUuifXyQK7gvgRKGhEVPKU3FMeuQMMuFOslEoXDInLtEja1_I7divA-vsnZFDHUzZ-elz-skROpBggVi1zclhv7GuL10jv1cNbdUVrUDNyVVPbt2cLu-4V9PXPUjJRtKEcQuqLE-hkHUPfNcg6r1Il0xjo4n1boAGzMvjkPD_7BrQPU6hCE6h8/s1440/winter%20carrots.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuYfzeoNUuifXyQK7gvgRKGhEVPKU3FMeuQMMuFOslEoXDInLtEja1_I7divA-vsnZFDHUzZ-elz-skROpBggVi1zclhv7GuL10jv1cNbdUVrUDNyVVPbt2cLu-4V9PXPUjJRtKEcQuqLE-hkHUPfNcg6r1Il0xjo4n1boAGzMvjkPD_7BrQPU6hCE6h8/s320/winter%20carrots.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Carrots harvested in winter.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span style="font-size: large;">What to Grow in a Winter Garden</span> </p><p><u>CARROTS and PARSNIPS:</u> Did you know that carrots and parsnips, like most crops we'll be looking at in this article, actually taste sweeter when harvested in the winter? That's because these plants convert some of their starches to sugar in order to protect their cells from freezing; as a result, their flavor improves.
In my zone 7 garden, I like to plant carrots and parsnips in the spring, then harvest them as needed all summer, fall, and winter - literally leaving them in the ground until needed. In very cold weather, don't be alarmed if the leaves of these plants die back; their edible roots are still perfectly edible. </p><p>Eskimo, Napoli, and Little Finger are nice choices for winter carrots. For parsnips, consider White Spear, Warrior, Gladiator, and Albion. </p><p><u>GREEN ONIONS:</u> If you plant onions in the fall, you can clip off their green tops to use as green onions (a.k.a. scallions) all winter long. (Just be sure to always leave behind at least two leaves.) If you stop harvesting the greens in the late winter or early spring, the plant roots will develop into full-sized onions, ready to harvest that summer or fall, depending upon the variety you're growing. </p><p>For best results in the winter garden, look for onion seeds or starts that are labeled as "overwintering;" most will be "long-day" types. Bridger, Walla Walla, Hi-Keeper, Electric, and Tough Ball are popular choices. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhXwXpJ9P-FQYMuqNkae-MKevtWybgwEX4vm7rhXBtZ2KSGPmybmNiL8bose0kYQKMwtkVszJQ6UBJQi0G2oG6PfRX6FrVhIUG9tdwzVnhQ4_O5BIR-78d24_P93sfIWnsoW03hoISvPFVmnTKmZMXZtoHEee2K0sX5lawJ4L4y4R3lADzY3oTRrVAWMg/s2048/leeks%20and%20parsnips.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhXwXpJ9P-FQYMuqNkae-MKevtWybgwEX4vm7rhXBtZ2KSGPmybmNiL8bose0kYQKMwtkVszJQ6UBJQi0G2oG6PfRX6FrVhIUG9tdwzVnhQ4_O5BIR-78d24_P93sfIWnsoW03hoISvPFVmnTKmZMXZtoHEee2K0sX5lawJ4L4y4R3lADzY3oTRrVAWMg/s320/leeks%20and%20parsnips.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Winter leeks and parsnips.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><u>LEEKS:</u> Leeks are a quintessential winter crop, but not all varieties are as hardy as others. In general, look for types that have thick stems, which better resist cold damage. </p><p>Durabel, Tadorna, Giant Musselburgh, and Bandit are some of the most cold hardy leeks available. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtrQdhWBjlc5XeNNbRo-KbEabOCAjh21mUgUkaNzN68yjnH1yhwrfpnVS39JocPtsG547UHhhntR09u7QUDzgQSt8NCK2f4i00HjhUIlNb_eD-Zmc4TZVh5Hy4EwjklfpfDC_c8zJCKXl6gXJwaj90JYM9rTv4y2_JLQxprvXsKNEoSuq8o7k6hGK1lAE/s2015/winter%20beets.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2015" data-original-width="1511" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtrQdhWBjlc5XeNNbRo-KbEabOCAjh21mUgUkaNzN68yjnH1yhwrfpnVS39JocPtsG547UHhhntR09u7QUDzgQSt8NCK2f4i00HjhUIlNb_eD-Zmc4TZVh5Hy4EwjklfpfDC_c8zJCKXl6gXJwaj90JYM9rTv4y2_JLQxprvXsKNEoSuq8o7k6hGK1lAE/s320/winter%20beets.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Winter beets.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><u>BEETS:</u> I always seem to have some spring-planted beets that aren't mature by fall. I leave them in the ground over winter and by early spring, they are of edible size. Of course, you can also time your beets so they mature right before the Persephone Period, and then harvest beets as needed throughout the winter. Just watch their growth, especially as daylight hours begin increasing; if the beets get huge, they will likely be too woody to eat. You can also grow winter beets just for their tasty leaves. </p><p>For winter gardening, Lutz is a popular variety, as is Detroit Dark Red. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGSs0UtTzNPdBwjMAxNN3MeyUp9K8h2OPPEECPBeq_5rQmfW9mZn6eaf1uMWE2HR4H7UpdeBhf1aP6-sZzdM6hD9BV65vfXkZIiZUZoyXQZdjUcRpqkfTtRZ5spPxSEqEL1bG07nRw7YfAUiUOr78e_Ic0Eg1mcFeaVrZasEACXRRA7rqI0WFLybyOFxk/s1280/winter%20turnips.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGSs0UtTzNPdBwjMAxNN3MeyUp9K8h2OPPEECPBeq_5rQmfW9mZn6eaf1uMWE2HR4H7UpdeBhf1aP6-sZzdM6hD9BV65vfXkZIiZUZoyXQZdjUcRpqkfTtRZ5spPxSEqEL1bG07nRw7YfAUiUOr78e_Ic0Eg1mcFeaVrZasEACXRRA7rqI0WFLybyOFxk/s320/winter%20turnips.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Turnips are a great winter crop.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><u>TURNIPS and RUTABEGAS:</u> These vegetables improve in the cold months, and provide not only their tasty root, but nutritious leaves that can be eaten like spinach or kale. (Don't worry if the leaves feel prickly; those prickles disappear as soon as the leaves are cooked.) Eventually, both turnips and rutabagas get woody if you let them sit in the garden too long, but they are usually slower to do this than are beets. </p><p>For winter gardening, try Purple Top or All Top turnips, as well as Helanor or Marion rutabagas. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKEuejopzMmLh2TpGVPg2n57EDRZOzizLCQCiVUqHC5kZj4gQW0H9HrghYnjjNqdCJxGDAT6RA48ggyX2tNDTg_KqURzj6jwVhfGTxL4j-dByo-XohXIE6AOJUs_VgbMVD8lQnqCxEbXNffVcRBn3JtNWS0KAVnPK7TdaaufoRA40aRKd5gLuRvqG1OU/s960/winter%20brussels%20sprouts.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKEuejopzMmLh2TpGVPg2n57EDRZOzizLCQCiVUqHC5kZj4gQW0H9HrghYnjjNqdCJxGDAT6RA48ggyX2tNDTg_KqURzj6jwVhfGTxL4j-dByo-XohXIE6AOJUs_VgbMVD8lQnqCxEbXNffVcRBn3JtNWS0KAVnPK7TdaaufoRA40aRKd5gLuRvqG1OU/s320/winter%20brussels%20sprouts.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Brussels sprouts harvested in winter.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><u>BRUSSELS SPROUTS: </u>If you grow your own Brussels sprouts, you're in for a real treat; they taste <i>so </i>much better than the Brussels sold at grocery stores! For best flavor, wait to harvest them until after a good hard frost. Brussels sprout plants will last in the garden all winter long, unless they get buried in snow. </p><p>To avoid the plant's large leaves from getting mushy and making a mess on the round heads we like to eat, pick them off and eat them (like any other leafy green) as the heads mature. (Or, if you prefer, toss them to your livestock or into your compost pile.) If your Brussels sprout heads look unappealing due to weather damage, just peel back the first couple of layers of leaves on each head, revealing fresh, quite edible food. </p><p>Some great varieties for cold weather include Igor, Redarling, Snowdrop Kalettes, and Red Rubine. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixw7MXduSmcyzw9bZvB__97ApYsWOSeaqKBtZ59EXNdBZjjIFuDe3E-4I4ZF-nn5ORn1dOYp81YSiE3acjPJcNQxZZBVJuzOBvt728qF650GmscqsPFC_7HbN9VclbbYmL6Fa8H5i71zvl8R8SCqpgA4egXvDBoJ_nlheWKjy3-K9CdlYZEyt6XcJAdYU/s2015/kohlrabi.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2015" data-original-width="1511" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixw7MXduSmcyzw9bZvB__97ApYsWOSeaqKBtZ59EXNdBZjjIFuDe3E-4I4ZF-nn5ORn1dOYp81YSiE3acjPJcNQxZZBVJuzOBvt728qF650GmscqsPFC_7HbN9VclbbYmL6Fa8H5i71zvl8R8SCqpgA4egXvDBoJ_nlheWKjy3-K9CdlYZEyt6XcJAdYU/s320/kohlrabi.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Kohlrabi and winter radishes.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script></p><p>
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</script></p><p><u>KOHLRABI: </u>As long as you don't get enough snow to bury the plant, kohlrabi will sit in the garden all winter, waiting to be harvested as needed. Don't forget that their leaves are edible, too. Eventually, the bulb part will get woody, so it's smart to finish harvesting your kohlrabi before the days begin lengthening. </p><p>I find that both Giant Winter and Superschmelz varieties do well in winter gardens. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESF289QV1xLamS0nJv-LNDFor9ZOMHQh0R6TkVErwzEvikUpJ4qNLM6YZZ3FsYfeaMbR1v7YFagsBOQqBiwTVdhTPQQLRQoMiqKqjTl0YtMFpLBUg5bXJhDnjQt02_vFf06UpACVFUEhEq6aYyXOATUfmdOOoQfZt6YIrYZG4cdRfANOuNWPiXSjJtps/s2048/icy%20leaves.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESF289QV1xLamS0nJv-LNDFor9ZOMHQh0R6TkVErwzEvikUpJ4qNLM6YZZ3FsYfeaMbR1v7YFagsBOQqBiwTVdhTPQQLRQoMiqKqjTl0YtMFpLBUg5bXJhDnjQt02_vFf06UpACVFUEhEq6aYyXOATUfmdOOoQfZt6YIrYZG4cdRfANOuNWPiXSjJtps/s320/icy%20leaves.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Collard leaves after a hard frost.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><u>KALE and COLLARDS:</u> Both of these leafy greens sit very well in the winter garden, but collards survive snow considerably better. I plant both in the spring, and then harvest all summer, fall, and winter. </p><p>For winter kale, Wild Siberian (sometimes called Wild Russian kale) is my favorite, but Winterbor, Siber Frills, and Scarlet are also popular choices. For collards, consider Top Chop, Champion, and Georgian Southern. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUO2UPXvsxw0Wokj2MiorzuMrXJA6nl_-p9yxsxqn0OYsC_GZKr3A3pBv4dveO6RLf9Ic5YQeXQW9wRnt3jtR07bkfM8OV57WoQmoHANI8oHb4m8w2f5zPazFv2ArRAVAUAcK9vY3GWmSFAI0x9BNHknJpwK3mw55vWSwTflpTyn9kRPmwQEfeeY12SY/s2048/winter%20cabbage.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUO2UPXvsxw0Wokj2MiorzuMrXJA6nl_-p9yxsxqn0OYsC_GZKr3A3pBv4dveO6RLf9Ic5YQeXQW9wRnt3jtR07bkfM8OV57WoQmoHANI8oHb4m8w2f5zPazFv2ArRAVAUAcK9vY3GWmSFAI0x9BNHknJpwK3mw55vWSwTflpTyn9kRPmwQEfeeY12SY/s320/winter%20cabbage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cabbage harvested in winter.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><u>CABBAGE: </u>Although the outer leaves, which aren't typically eaten (although they are perfectly edible if steamed or sliced thin and then cooked) will die back, the head of cabbage itself will survive in the garden as long as the plant isn't buried in snow. Expect to peel back a few outer layers of leaves, which will be damaged by cold temps. I plant my cabbage in the spring to enjoy all the way through to the early days of the <i>following </i>spring. </p><p>Some particularly cold hardy cabbages include Danish Ballhead, Late Flat Dutch, and Tundra. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8nz0JFB815bSjmlejrbVTqqB2ExPxVtwOTZrr3KoM7NVDr2LAy8NNY2oDWIwL-gEbdS9XY_D9MSXPaa_tiOzb_ejrdD-VsmWDHlYAEP9chhgydP4Uf2FXIW1KN5qaDuG0qcLVh3ucYt4eeQP6TANjRNb4WAcxKwBuujIoNV34GH33b-k-whqZEm1bW6k/s3062/Jerusalem%20artichoke.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3062" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8nz0JFB815bSjmlejrbVTqqB2ExPxVtwOTZrr3KoM7NVDr2LAy8NNY2oDWIwL-gEbdS9XY_D9MSXPaa_tiOzb_ejrdD-VsmWDHlYAEP9chhgydP4Uf2FXIW1KN5qaDuG0qcLVh3ucYt4eeQP6TANjRNb4WAcxKwBuujIoNV34GH33b-k-whqZEm1bW6k/s320/Jerusalem%20artichoke.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Freshly harvested Jerusalem artichokes</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><u>JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES:</u> Although the above-ground parts of this plant (which look a lot like sunflowers) will die back in the fall, the tuber remains quite edible all winter long. If you're unfamiliar with Jerusalem artichokes (sometimes called sunchokes), the tubers look something like a bumpy potato - and while they have a flavor that's unique from potatoes, they are eaten in the same ways (i.e., mashed, baked, fried, etc). </p><p>Be aware that a common and deserved nickname for this plant is "fartichokes;" however, eating the tubers after a hard frost makes them easier to digest - as does fermenting them into pickles. Jerusalem Artichokes also reproduce easily; because they can sometimes take over a garden, I recommend growing them only in raised beds or containers. </p><p>If your local gardening centers don't have Jerusalem Artichoke tubers to use as "seed," try looking for them in grocery stores - especially higher-end markets, or shops that focus on a wide variety of fresh produce. Store-bought tubers can be planted as seed, directly in the ground. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Crops Requiring a Little More Protection</span></p><p>The following plants will also provide winter harvests, but if you get sustained hard frost or snow, they will need some protection, such as a low tunnel, cold frame, or unheated greenhouse. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JXeVs6e2WVfkistKheYIEVqvyAgfu5kBh0GZQpxfQUT2d9XTN43eIZvOd9oQ7yM7mAPH1jd2OkmOeYB-l-kDSGzziGpN2seHtqfeGJDc6maEWfPoaCSQocxoxK388TNxrazx-GCRyEoc7ljmarw5R0ZBp3HgxYb5vnzUCvwT8zA935gQQgYtS6rjf88/s799/frosty%20swiss%20chard.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="799" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JXeVs6e2WVfkistKheYIEVqvyAgfu5kBh0GZQpxfQUT2d9XTN43eIZvOd9oQ7yM7mAPH1jd2OkmOeYB-l-kDSGzziGpN2seHtqfeGJDc6maEWfPoaCSQocxoxK388TNxrazx-GCRyEoc7ljmarw5R0ZBp3HgxYb5vnzUCvwT8zA935gQQgYtS6rjf88/w395-h263/frosty%20swiss%20chard.jpg" width="395" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Swiss chad after a hard frost. Courtesy of
<a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/132399483@N05/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1689708446377_1839" rel="author" title="Go to Local Food Initiative’s photostream">Local Food Initiative</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><u>LETTUCE, SPINACH, MUSTARD GREENS, and SWISS CHARD:</u> Although non-gardeners think of lettuce and spinach as things that grow well all year long, they both grow best in cool weather. This makes them ideal for spring, fall, and yes, winter gardens. Likewise, Swiss chard and mustard greens thrive when overwintered. </p><p>For lettuce, Little Gem, Prizehead, Red Montpelier, or Royal Oakleaf are good winter garden choices. For winter spinach, consider Giant Winter or Bloomsdale Savoy. For mustard greens, try Green in Snow and Pizzo. And for chard, consider Bietola a Costa Fine, Joy's Midnight, and Rainbow. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDFFp2tMYyoDWsbQmGmGpAXKhkYOE9w7etxiioA01cUkiJnkAKJtVonW-S-pQJdRGu5O6EIKb0lvdvuUDiKGD1dbMdO_kr0nt6CasP5PDbsSWCWg-defGj2o-bXbZCjYFvzYMKguC-s3pxsiHQbnTuq6uBnLCmcteFvuM0f2Ut4OpK7noXlOMOZ48Gv80/s799/bok%20choy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="532" data-original-width="799" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDFFp2tMYyoDWsbQmGmGpAXKhkYOE9w7etxiioA01cUkiJnkAKJtVonW-S-pQJdRGu5O6EIKb0lvdvuUDiKGD1dbMdO_kr0nt6CasP5PDbsSWCWg-defGj2o-bXbZCjYFvzYMKguC-s3pxsiHQbnTuq6uBnLCmcteFvuM0f2Ut4OpK7noXlOMOZ48Gv80/w377-h251/bok%20choy.jpg" width="377" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bok choy can be grown in winter. Courtesy of <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/stone-soup/" target="_blank">J</a><a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/stone-soup/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1689708376827_38706" rel="author" title="Go to jules’s photostream">ules</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><u>BOK CHOY:</u> This cool-season crop doesn't mind colder temps, and if started in the summer (for fall planting), will likely provide multiple cuttings of crisp leaves and stalks. </p><p>For winter gardening, consider Baby Choi or Yellow Heart Winter varieties. </p><p><u>RADISHES:</u> Most radishes don't do well in low temperatures, but if you select a winter variety, they will become a favorite in the colder months. Don't neglect to eat their tasty leaves, too! </p><p>Consider Daikon, Runder Schwarzer, or Spanish Black radishes for winter gardening. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1-4HNVUoLeNSxh5KJyRTOPkUPhXcpS0_SX_pJ8NFwAp4FSN8M4vXBB78nQiHfnmtlGmha_y7_8F88aCcZVNZfAOE19tbVuVFc8eKxQBTmvZinrxmYPOakBGuYUJrKJJCA6CDE239cHnFijhcBCKIkZgxqcSGdpfi7KDqAgvNdl2FDmzE750rxTpwh4k/s800/broccoli%20and%20cauliflower.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1-4HNVUoLeNSxh5KJyRTOPkUPhXcpS0_SX_pJ8NFwAp4FSN8M4vXBB78nQiHfnmtlGmha_y7_8F88aCcZVNZfAOE19tbVuVFc8eKxQBTmvZinrxmYPOakBGuYUJrKJJCA6CDE239cHnFijhcBCKIkZgxqcSGdpfi7KDqAgvNdl2FDmzE750rxTpwh4k/w348-h261/broccoli%20and%20cauliflower.jpg" width="348" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Broccoli and cauliflower can be harvested in early winter. Courtesy of <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/cookylida/" target="_blank">Ella</a></i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><u>BROCCOLI and CAULIFLOWER:</u> Of all the plants listed in this article, broccoli and cauliflower are the trickiest to grow in the winter garden. While both pants love growing during cooler months, they don't last long when left to sit in the garden. Therefore, it's especially important to check on these plants daily. For best flavor, both broccoli and cauliflower should be harvested when the head's buds are still tightly bunched together; if they show any sign of separating from each other, harvest immediately. Don't forget that broccoli and cauliflower leaves and stems are edible, too. </p><p>Be sure to choose winter varieties such as Snowball Y, English Winter, or Candid Charm cauliflower or Emerald Crown, Purple Sprouting, Rudolf, Sequoia, or Waltham 29 broccoli. </p><p> </p><p>Once you understand winter vegetable gardening, I think you'll be delighted by the results. While most homesteaders are stuck eating canned, dried, or frozen veggies, you'll be eating fresh vegetables <span style="font-size: small;">in the cold, dark days of winter! </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b>RELATED POSTS:</b></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/07/how-to-start-fall-garden-in-july.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxjEclFFuSPirYt00RZToxiC87cH3hSDziS9-2UfT0z6F0_CWyQujSzEpFTMkKgwMUk19Zj0x7UftwNY7BYS7iCnjFgcsDwb0Qg-aaAyFeFHhstXOr6G_lJmohFzVwDm54i9LTz6eNhsen2BWHOv2h3BmoLB7D5BOzfALzQ9t9rRrPvFy2CDs4rn-IhA/s320/Start-a-Fall-Garden-in-July.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2014/08/easier-gardening-through-edible.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4L37h7vv8FiGoPnOCGdH12PgzC8Dwcwr9sRqLRrQEYmKkRcLwPIwIEUSb6SpuX_H4Lt5a_TPWD7Kl9nTjgapm5tO6Bb5b0SXES9razgt0eOXcu7DLw-V0vm2wmr_MJ1SLPw8YSJxlAf3Qxo7it9SoC9KbLoekIGx06QyNH2X5WmJvmLOuQ5ZHYNSX8A/s320/Easier-Gardening-Throug-Edible-Perennials.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2023/04/get-most-from-your-vegetable-garden.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="342" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jfaLUt6hJhlWaEkcUhPKwkcz6G1ShT5bhAKF90_9XqYHrROv71M8B4EqFnyzOtMqvzD6N0RKHAs_51YVwoWBNTjNUMDXhwzO8ZzFMjtdFoGQfibIgEsoO_q78PNfeq2IipgnKajQCTHYxZqcVcIOs1DcLwthSeuBUvVW45BvgkpDqke2jYRFzesQ61w/s320/Get-the-most-from-your-vegetable-garden.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> </div><br /><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-37495567452796251712023-06-23T14:27:00.004-07:002023-06-23T14:27:35.544-07:00Organic Pest Control: What REALLY Works?<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAipJ3m6lG8bN3pSHAjGW4WmsPoeUv5h2eRKOzCX-wSlh8fxUEbak4wxS0T9N1W_3szqkNBgpih-cBzNj-XNIPH34rYY8o2RcNtJrWB5SxDq8TP0Yiac0ckqfVZnPW_EzmlUuqo6jot7jJP69fZrl4pELXPArsDqb077aGHD4NITHPxHFMM-7PZa_0dk/s1500/Organic%20Pest%20Control.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Oreganic Pest Control What Really Works" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="563" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAipJ3m6lG8bN3pSHAjGW4WmsPoeUv5h2eRKOzCX-wSlh8fxUEbak4wxS0T9N1W_3szqkNBgpih-cBzNj-XNIPH34rYY8o2RcNtJrWB5SxDq8TP0Yiac0ckqfVZnPW_EzmlUuqo6jot7jJP69fZrl4pELXPArsDqb077aGHD4NITHPxHFMM-7PZa_0dk/w375-h563/Organic%20Pest%20Control.jpg" title="Organic Pest Control in the Garden" width="375" /></a></span></i></div><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />This post may contain affiliate links. As
an Amazon Associate, and at no cost to you, I earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p>Not all bugs are bad. In fact, some bugs are so good, you can practically see their halos; they enrich your soil (like worms and centipedes do), eat pests that harm your plants (ladybugs, dragonflies, and spiders, for instance), and pollinate your plants (hello, bees and moths). Even "bad" bugs are tolerable if there aren't too many of them...in fact, several <a href="https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2020/01/200109112857.htm" target="_blank">scientific studies</a> show that vegetables lightly eaten by pests are actually more nutritious to eat. However, when pests start increasing in number, they can completely destroy your garden. </p><p>A few generations ago, the answer to any bug problem was to buy a man-made chemical and spray it everywhere. However, now we know this not only kills the bad bugs, but it kills the good bugs, too. Besides, who wants to grow their own food just to end up eating a bunch of pesticides? ("Cide" means "killer" in Latin, you know.) </p><p>The good news is, organic methods of pest control are extremely effective. It's just a matter of knowing how to use them. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Prevention is Key </span></p><p>The number one best way to deal with pests in the garden is through prevention. There are several basic ways you can reduce the risk of pests attacking your crops: </p><p><i><b>* Make great soil.</b></i> If your soil is full of organic matter and well-balanced nutrients, your plants will be strong and better able to fight off pests. To ensure your soil stays in tip-top condition, do a yearly soil test and amend accordingly, add organic matter (such as manure, compost, dry grass clippings, and dry leaves) at least once a year, ideally in the late fall; this gives the amendments time to break down and enrich the soil before spring planting. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEAsRtmSAgp4ejVSnAvs6CcEzKEjGu4a9o_3CToQBNdRHNRqS7ccuqFU9yeu79dPH86BU_ybFSAvYttP3aKK93hsduuaYKgsZMYJH67rYZ7-GK07EDU7bmM0y5gGqT5nWLXc3WrIn_2DWEWUee9GKpYPbiI2nSw7q2seAAYSUZoixQ4HqmA_qIebTQ_LA/s3024/Organic%20Vegetable%20Garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEAsRtmSAgp4ejVSnAvs6CcEzKEjGu4a9o_3CToQBNdRHNRqS7ccuqFU9yeu79dPH86BU_ybFSAvYttP3aKK93hsduuaYKgsZMYJH67rYZ7-GK07EDU7bmM0y5gGqT5nWLXc3WrIn_2DWEWUee9GKpYPbiI2nSw7q2seAAYSUZoixQ4HqmA_qIebTQ_LA/w363-h363/Organic%20Vegetable%20Garden.jpg" width="363" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Organic gardening is absolutely attainable.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><b><i>* Rotate crops. </i></b>To keep the soil healthy and help break the cycle of pest egg-laying, crop rotation is important. For example, if you plant broccoli in one spot in your garden this year, you should not plant broccoli <i><u>or anything in the broccoli family</u></i> in that spot for the next three years.
For the purposes of vegetable crop rotation, there are only six families of plants: </p><p>1. Alliums: Like garlic, leeks, and onions. </p><p>2. Brassicas: Like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard greens, radishes, and turnips. </p><p>3. Cucurbits: Like cucumbers, melons, summer squash, and winter squash. </p><p> 4. Legumes: Like green beans, peas, and peanuts. </p><p>5. Nightshades: Like eggplant, peppers, potatoes, and tomatoes. </p><p>6. Umbellifers: Like carrots, dill, fennel, parsley, and parsnips. </p><p><b><i>* Encourage wild birds and beneficial insects</i></b> (that eat bad bugs) in your garden. Give birds safe places to nest and consider putting out feeders. Encourage good bugs by planting flowers that attract them in or around your vegetable garden. </p><p><b><i> * Observe your garden daily.</i></b> Look closely for any changes to plants, and check under leaves and on the soil for any signs of pests or disease. Catching problems early is a major key to success in gardening. </p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><{><span style="font-size: large;">Slugs and Snails </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWVsvH2-bAfCRbx5B9qIo9Vk8JC94f27TsSVryBn1k899CLZncFtAQKC3VQM_quloQRfS0BC38UhkPM_XQKGNx8ySl_BnyqDQdd7XptwPWsf1noFoWBscAHG7-y6f03XexV8jnqMZ41joPq-DRQ6evzgINwhOVtyCWO5cD6_BrbG7dHti5PVkmh4H7LA/s1440/Garden%20slug.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1211" data-original-width="1440" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWVsvH2-bAfCRbx5B9qIo9Vk8JC94f27TsSVryBn1k899CLZncFtAQKC3VQM_quloQRfS0BC38UhkPM_XQKGNx8ySl_BnyqDQdd7XptwPWsf1noFoWBscAHG7-y6f03XexV8jnqMZ41joPq-DRQ6evzgINwhOVtyCWO5cD6_BrbG7dHti5PVkmh4H7LA/w414-h348/Garden%20slug.jpg" width="414" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Garden slugs are one of my great <span class="sen has-num-only"><span class="if">nemeses</span></span>.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>On summer evenings, I can step out onto my porch and literally hear the slugs and snails chowing down on my plants. It's not an exaggeration to say we have <i>millions </i>of slugs and snails on our homestead, both native and non-native. Fortunately, there are many organic ways to prevent them from completely destroying our garden. </p><p>Whenever possible, I hand pick slugs and snails. I go out early in the morning - or even just after dark - and pick all the slugs and snails I see, putting them in a bucket. (You can also lay down a piece of plywood or some wood boards the day before and then turn them over in the morning to find slugs and snails hiding under them.) When I'm done picking, I sprinkle ordinary salt over the critters to kill them. (I don't recommend salting slugs and snails directly on the soil because salt builds up over time and will prevent plants from growing.) </p><p>If you have small numbers of snails, you can simply crush them with your boot; larger slugs can be dispatched by poking a stick through their bodies. </p><p>For small gardens, <a href="https://amzn.to/43IuoUb" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">copper tape</a>, which shocks slugs and snails, can be applied to pots or raised beds. <i>However</i>, if even one leaf grows over the copper tape, slugs and snails will use that pathway to get to your plants. Since copper tape can be pricey, I typically use other methods. </p><p>Beer traps, for example, are relatively inexpensive (use the cheapest beer you can find) and quite effective. Lay out empty tuna cans, upside-down Frisbees, or similar shallow containers, pour a bit of beer in them, and in the morning you'll find slugs and snails have drowned themselves in the brew. Rinse and repeat. </p><p><a href="https://today.oregonstate.edu/news/slugs-and-snails-destructors-crops-and-gardens-could-be-controlled-bread-dough" target="_blank">Recent studies</a> by Oregon State University, however, find that bread dough is the very best way to attract and kill slugs and snails. Just mix together 1 cup of flour, 1 packet (about 2 1/4 teaspoons) of yeast, and about 2 cups of water. If the mixture isn't liquidy, add more water. (OSU calls this mixture a "slurry.") Pour the mixture into empty plastic containers, such as clean, empty sour cream or cottage cheese tubs. Dig a shallow hole in the garden - just big enough that the container's rim is about level with the soil. Place the container inside. Check this trap daily, removing pests and refreshing the slurry as needed.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ijKykvMYisse6AmY5tGgtl-j2m-F5jDMEMHFYmqX0JBnVKkiLfqF4DNplDieLaGHSJK_DFWywb02K_3w3-G8Ax-YGMDK9aY7mGgFkGV1ukYY-_VQCheGsWf7fbcQn97BLU5xVt4ohIcoPsCG7U-9OynessZkL0G_OgC9IzDqvwht9tRiBj2BuqvCDZY/s1531/Banana%20slug.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1049" data-original-width="1531" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ijKykvMYisse6AmY5tGgtl-j2m-F5jDMEMHFYmqX0JBnVKkiLfqF4DNplDieLaGHSJK_DFWywb02K_3w3-G8Ax-YGMDK9aY7mGgFkGV1ukYY-_VQCheGsWf7fbcQn97BLU5xVt4ohIcoPsCG7U-9OynessZkL0G_OgC9IzDqvwht9tRiBj2BuqvCDZY/w429-h294/Banana%20slug.jpg" width="429" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Banana slugs may be cool-looking, but they are garden destroyers!<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p>But even given these useful methods, we have <i>so many</i> slugs and snails that I find myself needing to sprinkle iron phosphate (which occurs naturally in the soil and is best known under the brand name <a href="https://amzn.to/443NQdI" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Sluggo</a>) around the garden when my plants are at the vulnerable seedling stage. When applied according to the directions on the package, it is "relatively non-toxic" to pets, children, and wildlife, according to the Oregon State University Extension Office. (This means they'd have to eat a <i>lot </i>of it to get sick.) It can withstand some rain and irrigation before it needs re-applying. </p><p>If slugs and snails are a problem for you, you'll also want to avoid two common gardening practices: Drip hoses and larger wood bark mulch. Slugs and snails love both. (On the other hand, many people swear pine needle mulches repel these pests.) </p><p>Some gardeners swear by <a href="https://amzn.to/3PauuzD" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">food-grade diatomaceous earth</a> (DE, for short) for slugs, snails, and any pest with an exoskeleton. This readily-available powder is made from the ground up bodies of fossilized algae. There are a few drawbacks to DE, however. One is that it only works when it's kept dry, so if it rains, or you irrigate, it will require reapplication. DE is also irritating to eyes and dangerous to breathe in, so you need to pour it out with care - ideally wearing a mask and goggles. Worse, DE kills bees. To help keep the bees in your garden alive and buzzing, you should never apply DE to flowers; in fact, avoid applying it anywhere but the soil. Reduce the risk to bees even further by applying DE at dusk, when bees aren't flying around - and only when there is no wind. </p><p><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2015/05/eggshells-for-slug-and-snail-control-do.html" target="_blank">In my experience</a>, crushed eggshells work just as well against slugs and snails, but as soon as water splashes earth onto them, they become much less effective. (Both DE and eggshells work by being painful for slugs and snails to slink over.) </p><p>Finally, you might want to consider getting ducks and allowing them to roam your garden. Ducks <i>love</i> eating slugs and snails! The only trouble is, they will eat your desirable garden plants, too, so they are best used when the garden is dormant. For example, you could allow ducks into your garden in the late winter and early spring, when they will eat pests and gently fertilize the soil, then move them to a different area before planting your spring garden.</p><p>Incidentally, if you don't realize you have a slug problem until you harvest your veggies (the slimy suckers are famous for hiding in the inner leaves of cabbage and Brussels sprouts, for example), place the veggies in a clean sink and cover them with water. I use a dinner plate to hold the veggies down, and after a few minutes, all the slugs have crawled out of their hiding places. Most end up on the dinner plate, but a few others will be on the sides of the sink. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Aphids </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelvkzEQO_oNjHK4cWZ115et_b9TYEY8mB6bPj6fLIbnCce4YYxKYe18vq6IwG0iA9vNNIdGzOmero0RjutRyCD9g7eJLcvAp_C-ofrUv6CKhleyC97rkDDra03LlZ1icYHFRCT8zCLqpdp6-GOwqDLpfaFlu6rCyXOxNVtrm6sZbvCO3pFYuiPVaW_k4/s4000/Aphids.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelvkzEQO_oNjHK4cWZ115et_b9TYEY8mB6bPj6fLIbnCce4YYxKYe18vq6IwG0iA9vNNIdGzOmero0RjutRyCD9g7eJLcvAp_C-ofrUv6CKhleyC97rkDDra03LlZ1icYHFRCT8zCLqpdp6-GOwqDLpfaFlu6rCyXOxNVtrm6sZbvCO3pFYuiPVaW_k4/w420-h315/Aphids.jpg" width="420" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A bad aphid infestation.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>These tiny, clustering pests literally suck the life out of plants, so at the first sign of aphids, kick them off with a blast of cold water from the spray nozzle of your hose. This will often completely take care of the problem, but in the days following, do check under leaves to make sure new aphids don't appear. If the aphids are attacking only one or two leaves, I prefer to simply cut off those leaves and feed them (and the aphids) to my chickens. (Alternatively, you could secure the affected leaves in a sealed plastic or paper container, then throw them away.) </p><p>If aphids still persist, <a href="https://amzn.to/3CwYiyM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">organic neem oil</a> is an excellent solution. (Not all neem oil products are organic, so read labels carefully.) Avoid spraying the oil on a windy day; you want to keep it out of your eyes and lungs. Like many pest control solutions, neem oil will have to be re-applied if it rains or you use a sprinkler. To apply it, simply spray it all over the plant, including <i>under </i>leaves.
If you don't want to buy neem oil, you could use a homemade spray. These are usually soap based (a common recipe is 1 quart of water and 1 or 2 teaspoons of liquid dish soap), but these should be used with caution because sometimes they burn plants, especially if applied on a sunny day. Like neem oil, these soap-based sprays work by suffocating aphids. </p><p>You could also try buying and dispersing a natural predator of aphids, such as <a href="https://amzn.to/3NuImDC" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">ladybugs </a>or <a href="https://amzn.to/3NcnG1B" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">lacewings</a>. In my experience, however, this isn't always successful; these predators may fly away, leaving aphids behind on your plants. I suggest you first ensure you have plenty of plants to attract these predators (for example, ladybugs love dill, carrots, fennel, and yarrow). This will help keep purchased predatory insects in place - and it will attract wild ones, too. </p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Cutworms </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihisRstjMzcYFXn8D5ZEAbz2NqmEdwzP6zvqx9sUcAFc8SokT8QrAkEGHvsRU7fn835uMwwy99TDsty3HkK6LtGgPeYggPGJuGkL_nVI3rEUSnkUWyEffk9H3PVuDR7oLZppZkYbwenS5CCtEPRPqic7I9rcGeXH0B5ZRwKktvM1cL3C14JgOPSiY7sCE/s800/Cutworm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="800" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihisRstjMzcYFXn8D5ZEAbz2NqmEdwzP6zvqx9sUcAFc8SokT8QrAkEGHvsRU7fn835uMwwy99TDsty3HkK6LtGgPeYggPGJuGkL_nVI3rEUSnkUWyEffk9H3PVuDR7oLZppZkYbwenS5CCtEPRPqic7I9rcGeXH0B5ZRwKktvM1cL3C14JgOPSiY7sCE/w381-h269/Cutworm.jpg" width="381" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Black cutworm. Courtesy of <br /></i><div class="attribution-info" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1687552899520_5393">
<i><a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/usgsbiml/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1687552899520_5394" rel="author" title="Go to USGS Bee Inventory and Monitoring Lab’s photostream">USGS</a>.
</i> </div></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="attribution-info" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1687552899520_5393"> </div></td></tr></tbody></table>If your seedlings look fine one day, but then are suddenly chopped off at soil level the next day, cutworms are likely to blame. Fortunately, you can stop cutworms in their tracks by using cutworm collars. You can purchase these collars at gardening centers or you can make your own from a plastic drinking cup (cut the bottom out and put the seedling inside), a toilet paper roll (cut into three-inch lengths and plant the seedlings in the center), or even rings of aluminum foil. (<a href="https://youtu.be/zozMrMRqtc8" target="_blank">I've always used aluminum foil</a>, but this year I used toilet paper rolls and found it easier and just as effective.)<br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Cabbage Worms </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbyZz-zes7R-1DhYTXbXreLBZr_Xm5aE-6gMCT5Yk6lKri9zCncjmTFv9UPm9Vhy8F3ufksVfPJJkmoU1elWVyBUrOBwCxYtZofXW54I4z--7-71s8drFwQrILl5A5sKmJiz7c2InbLzhPb_94Bxia1q7kVQNbVKUdSmGl61GOTK3C8Eh9o-rnujeKPs/s800/Cabbage%20worm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="536" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbyZz-zes7R-1DhYTXbXreLBZr_Xm5aE-6gMCT5Yk6lKri9zCncjmTFv9UPm9Vhy8F3ufksVfPJJkmoU1elWVyBUrOBwCxYtZofXW54I4z--7-71s8drFwQrILl5A5sKmJiz7c2InbLzhPb_94Bxia1q7kVQNbVKUdSmGl61GOTK3C8Eh9o-rnujeKPs/w287-h430/Cabbage%20worm.jpg" width="287" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cabbage worm. Courtesy of the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table>If you find small, green worms on your brassicas, you can try hand picking them off and then either squishing them or killing them in soapy water. You can also soak affected harvested veggies in salt water, which will make the pests crawl out of their hiding places and drown. <p></p><p>But if you want to prevent cabbage moths in the first place, place <a href="https://amzn.to/43IgWQm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">row covers</a> over your brassicas. Just make sure you do this as soon as your garden is planted in the spring, or the pretty white moths (whose children are cabbage worms) will have a chance to lay their eggs in your garden. Another trick that some people swear by is planting orange-flowering nasturtiums in amongst your brassicas. </p><p>Truly, these steps should take care of cabbage worms, but if you find yourself in the midst of a huge infestation, you could also bring in the big guns: biological pesticides. These include <a href="https://amzn.to/3JhKDzl" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Bt (Bacillus Thuringiensis</a>, a natural soil bacteria that's toxic when ingested by insect larvae) or <a href="https://amzn.to/3PdNop8" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">spinosad </a>(a natural substance made by soil bacteria that's toxic to certain insects). Spinosad is less desirable because it may harm aquatic invertebrates and earthworms; it must also be applied at dusk so it has a chance to dry before bees are exposed to it. These pesticides are organic, but really should only be used when other measures don't do the trick. </p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Grasshoppers </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="799" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrJaSIbZHRvy2xULL60mAZJuag7WCtWu4jgZiNLJw03wfCzttnchS8hCOhCr4cQvOodNtkP2mf2tlrdsxDyNiq4XU_RlpzEHS8mthiIQMzYtp7vSbCYTZmSezpDPB07GS0GRJxmf4fQUo2J6K50J8bY0KwQkaaE_5ohPbwt4HKifmWjQ0Zw_wDo3ehJA/w413-h275/grasshopper.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="413" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A few grasshoppers are pretty harmless, but lots of them are devastating. Courtesy of
<a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/jean_hort/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1687553172247_1903" rel="author" title="Go to Jean and Fred Hort’s photostream">Jean and Fred Hort</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>Who can forget the vivid image <i><a href="https://amzn.to/3qDPCUy" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">On the Banks of Plum Creek</a></i>, Laura Ingalls Wilder's autobiographical novel, gives of a grasshopper plague? "Grasshoppers beat down from the sky and swarmed thick over the ground..." Wilder wrote. "The air whirred and the roof went on sounding like a roof in a hailstorm. Then Laura heard another sound, one big sound made of tiny nips and snips and gnawings...The grasshoppers were eating...You could hear the millions of jaws biting and chewing..." And then, when they had eaten everything in sight: "All across the dooryard the grasshoppers were walking shoulder to shoulder and end to end, so crowded that the ground seemed to be moving. Not a single one hopped. Not one turned its head. As fast as they could go, they were all walking west." <p></p><p>Fortunately, most gardeners don't have to worry about invasions like this. Still, even a few grasshoppers can definitely damage our plants. The good news is, just as Laura learned, chickens love eating grasshoppers. So do guinea fowl, geese, and ducks. So if you spot a large number of grasshoppers in your garden, your poultry friends should be able to take care of them. </p><p>It's also smart to encourage grasshoppers' natural predators (such as wild birds, toads, lizards, and small snakes) to take up residence in your garden. For example, you could make sure there are some slightly elevated areas with plenty of foliage for toads to hide under, build a ditch or small pond for water, and make a <a href="https://amzn.to/3Xce8sn" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">toad house</a> that sits nearby. </p><p>In addition, <a href="https://amzn.to/3PauuzD" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">DE</a> and <a href="https://amzn.to/3CwYiyM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">neem oil</a> can help protect plants against grasshoppers, as can <a href="https://amzn.to/3qO02kM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">sticky traps</a>, and <i><a href="https://www.katyayaniorganics.com/product/beauveria-bassiana-bio-pesticide/?attribute_quantity=3+Litre+(+1Litres+x+3+)" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Beauveria Bassiana</a></i>, a natural - through pricey - fungus that kills certain insects, including grasshoppers, termites, thrips, whiteflies, and aphids. Even though this fungus is generally considered safe for beneficial insects, it should be used only as a last resort, as it does have the power to kill bees if the fungus ends up on flowers. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Squash Bugs </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDuT6qbemzL1pQWeQJSL5quqy5jsFJ2R-5PH6d1ddEpNcEDr9SN747NmzU1a0CxFh6KiDVhtuwoJaijLomjcHGGE_qspf1P-IEhSIn5vgXHOzDihsRW5Mnn2YuI58EB1rl8X3bwy97g7jWcENqI-JARjVEDvtU1J9ah44ZGIHTrqUzR0yeJd5q7a67cIw/s1200/Squash%20bug.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDuT6qbemzL1pQWeQJSL5quqy5jsFJ2R-5PH6d1ddEpNcEDr9SN747NmzU1a0CxFh6KiDVhtuwoJaijLomjcHGGE_qspf1P-IEhSIn5vgXHOzDihsRW5Mnn2YuI58EB1rl8X3bwy97g7jWcENqI-JARjVEDvtU1J9ah44ZGIHTrqUzR0yeJd5q7a67cIw/s320/Squash%20bug.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A common type of squash bug. Courtesy of
<a class="external text" href="https://www.flickr.com/people/144198875@N02" rel="nofollow">Christina Butler</a> and Wikipedia Commons.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>These critters can absolutely devastate your cucurbit crops, and many people find them quite a difficult enemy. Hand picking squash bugs off plants and then squashing them is an effective method (although not an easy task, since cucurbits are so viney). It's also vital to interrupt the bug's life cycle so they don't persist in your garden. Make sure you clean up all plants at the end of the season, burning rather than composting them. And while thick mulches are recommended for most gardens, squash bugs love them, so they must be avoided if you have issues with these pests. <p></p><p>You can also spray <a href="https://amzn.to/3CwYiyM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">neem oil</a> on any egg clusters you find (or simply scrape off the eggs with a butter knife or cut off and dispose of affected leaves). <a href="https://amzn.to/3NdzMYA" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Row covers</a> are also a helpful ally in fighting squash bugs; put them up as soon as you plant cucurbit seeds or seedlings and only remove them when the first female flowers appear. As summer progresses, predators who love to eat squash bugs (including bigeyed bugs, damsel bugs, and feather-legged flies) tend to come out in full force, so consider not planting any cucurbits until early summer. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Squash Vine Borers </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9l7RoPaGNR7aGueNDK6JkPugL17cD3JxouJm5Z_ockpGL39e_7iuduyF62JHlrPEPSWSlw25hS9PuZeV7cef-Mf26eVm9IIk6CLYM7dZTPfcEFWnkTr6MW1DSS81LerUaiTjQThcdSHxPbgkvhlCLHU-bz1ltUk6cQQBgyRXNloqezruEHpsfUmWPeBA/s1600/Squash%20vine%20borer.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9l7RoPaGNR7aGueNDK6JkPugL17cD3JxouJm5Z_ockpGL39e_7iuduyF62JHlrPEPSWSlw25hS9PuZeV7cef-Mf26eVm9IIk6CLYM7dZTPfcEFWnkTr6MW1DSS81LerUaiTjQThcdSHxPbgkvhlCLHU-bz1ltUk6cQQBgyRXNloqezruEHpsfUmWPeBA/w424-h316/Squash%20vine%20borer.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Squash vine borer. Courtesy of <a class="external text" href="https://www.flickr.com/people/99758165@N06" rel="nofollow">NY State IPM Program at Cornell University</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i></td></tr></tbody></table>Using crop rotation is essential if squash vine borers are a problem in your area; choosing resistant varieties may also be necessary. These resistant varieties (which include Eight Ball, Tatume, Poquito, Cucuzzi, Butternut...anything in the<i> Cucurbita Moschata</i> family) have thick, solid stems that repel borers. In addition, long-vined, open-pollinated summer squashes will fare better than hybrid varieties (because they develop additional roots wherever the vines touch the soil; if borers attack the plant, you can cut off the affected parts and still keep the squash alive). <p></p><p>Planting squash later in the season and then keeping a <a href="https://amzn.to/3NdzMYA" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">row cover</a> over it until you begin seeing female flowers, is also effective. If all else fails, <a href="https://amzn.to/3JhKDzl" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Bt</a> sprayed onto the main stem of the plant (but never the flowers) should do the trick; see the section on cabbage worms for more information on Bt. </p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Cucumber Beetles </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ierCgYAsBKCyfMzfkjgr2FDdRZ5QGPW--hry3bW3Q0pyA5EchpAiK5DqewTmpnHRlIzi1i133SVWaHlQnPlMGaYoXVYEuHKsv8SOPMCQu4IZsW2JTvLjeFBblWP2RCaxhYCCMJ29aAl4eTakCECVj7zuGjky2js3pXDcF9PhAewpGYd6fXxXcDmUqmY/s1597/Cucumber%20beetle.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1198" data-original-width="1597" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ierCgYAsBKCyfMzfkjgr2FDdRZ5QGPW--hry3bW3Q0pyA5EchpAiK5DqewTmpnHRlIzi1i133SVWaHlQnPlMGaYoXVYEuHKsv8SOPMCQu4IZsW2JTvLjeFBblWP2RCaxhYCCMJ29aAl4eTakCECVj7zuGjky2js3pXDcF9PhAewpGYd6fXxXcDmUqmY/w398-h299/Cucumber%20beetle.jpg" width="398" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A common striped cucumber beetle. Courtesy of <a class="external text" href="https://www.flickr.com/people/86548370@N00" rel="nofollow">Katja Schulz</a> and Wikipedia Commons</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p>The main issue with this pest is that it transmits bacterial wilt to cucurbit plants; there is no effective treatment for this wilt, so affected plants will die. </p><p>Handpicking (using rubber gloves smeared with Vaseline) vacuuming (with a handheld vac), <a href="https://amzn.to/3PawLe9" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">sticky traps</a>, <a href="https://amzn.to/3CwYiyM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">neem oil</a>, and making sure to remove and burn all plants from the garden once they are spent, are helpful practices. Putting <a href="https://amzn.to/42QLiis" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">row covers</a> over seeds or seedlings until the first female flowers appear is also highly effective, as is planting in early summer, instead of spring, when the pests are making themselves known in the garden. </p><p>Also, if you till your garden in the spring, be sure to let your poultry - especially chickens and guinea fowl - follow behind you. Cucumber beetles burrow under the soil during winter's cold conditions, but tilling brings them up where your poultry can use them as a tasty meal. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Japanese Beetles </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcYTHEwsBwNya15ahEXcAOBFgiHk1dD6BrsSZfOyEgb1H0p9a3HLLOB1nSh9c1Tu6ilLw3LM2TgUO1TlK0jiN_nq6_nzqXMbTh6YB3rR06EnLKwUS_NT8q8mK2Blg6zlKG-4aZb5m2nsIsDkSzyMx6gVr3cStQKNdyd8MD7WpmRrDfHjbR-_zGYRk7_c/s1597/Japense%20Beetle.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1198" data-original-width="1597" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcYTHEwsBwNya15ahEXcAOBFgiHk1dD6BrsSZfOyEgb1H0p9a3HLLOB1nSh9c1Tu6ilLw3LM2TgUO1TlK0jiN_nq6_nzqXMbTh6YB3rR06EnLKwUS_NT8q8mK2Blg6zlKG-4aZb5m2nsIsDkSzyMx6gVr3cStQKNdyd8MD7WpmRrDfHjbR-_zGYRk7_c/w396-h297/Japense%20Beetle.jpg" width="396" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Japanese Beetle. Courtesy of <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Ryan_Hodnett" title="User:Ryan Hodnett">Ryan Hodnett</a> and Wikipedia Commons.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p>If you live where it's very hot or very cold, Japanese beetles shouldn't be much of a problem in your garden. Elsewhere, however, removing the pests by hand and then squishing them (or dumping them in a bucket of soapy water) is an effective method of control. Although <a href="https://amzn.to/3Jg4UFr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">traps are available</a> for Japanese beetles, they may not be as effective as you wish. </p><p>Letting your chickens, guinea fowl, geese, or ducks into the garden to feast on these bugs can put an abrupt end to an infestation. The best way to do this is to allow your birds into the garden in late spring, when Japanese beetle larvae are close to the surface of the soil.
In addition, using <a href="https://amzn.to/3XbIVVT" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">row covers</a> at the right time of year is helpful. In the southern part of the U.S., put them up 8 weeks before mid-May; in the North, 8 weeks before mid-June. Just note that row covers keep out pollinators, too. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Hornworms </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRNqJfEuUxGs5RBRU1A5THmqNzVNlodZ22GwsNwRXksIpJxmofhUrSpr6a6CJ2Xgjqr9TNzwAxkZSV5ch0Oj_8Sco4ukjVVAGiKTk-NRpZXjRQQaEH34g9qiTyHwPcpB_0SzlDn6bncBmXzEdd3ixhtJh-HypRKWxW_xJW2nozitfy-kzY4pvm_JibzzM/s800/Hornworm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="651" data-original-width="800" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRNqJfEuUxGs5RBRU1A5THmqNzVNlodZ22GwsNwRXksIpJxmofhUrSpr6a6CJ2Xgjqr9TNzwAxkZSV5ch0Oj_8Sco4ukjVVAGiKTk-NRpZXjRQQaEH34g9qiTyHwPcpB_0SzlDn6bncBmXzEdd3ixhtJh-HypRKWxW_xJW2nozitfy-kzY4pvm_JibzzM/w415-h337/Hornworm.jpg" width="415" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tomato hornworms. Courtesy of
<a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ikewinski/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1687553799845_1917" rel="author" title="Go to Mike Lewinski’s photostream">Mike Lewinski</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p>The very best way to get rid of hornworms is to pick them off by hand and then either squish them or dump them in soapy water. However, sometimes they are very good at hiding! If that's the case, use a <a href="https://amzn.to/468Ya64" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">blacklight </a>to spot them; it will make the pests light up brightly. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEj_gfOEWbYBd-Z8DMMVBt-_nQb4BvBsUdJB6rDg-dkcZNb4KSAo61T_rIbBIQmZrFlG6PE_rvFGfX-LNEejwURc8zAI9tNP8YZhOj3Ceppbg4iuJ07SMm9tMiHIWoFkt4_VSK5VO1MO9LfC3hhVPuHY1XS-2C5RQi3jn9jWwz6f0OKnRiWpzJ0MCpf8/s1440/hornworm%20damage.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1072" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEj_gfOEWbYBd-Z8DMMVBt-_nQb4BvBsUdJB6rDg-dkcZNb4KSAo61T_rIbBIQmZrFlG6PE_rvFGfX-LNEejwURc8zAI9tNP8YZhOj3Ceppbg4iuJ07SMm9tMiHIWoFkt4_VSK5VO1MO9LfC3hhVPuHY1XS-2C5RQi3jn9jWwz6f0OKnRiWpzJ0MCpf8/w288-h387/hornworm%20damage.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Hornworm damage.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Ants </span></p><p>Generally, ants are more of a nuisance to the gardener than an actual pest to plants; although you might see ants crawling on your veggies, they are after honeydew (the sweet excrement of certain pests, like aphids), not the plants themselves. </p><p>However, if ants have a nest in an inappropriate place in your garden, a very easy way to get rid of them is to use <a href="https://amzn.to/3N9LZ0m" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Borax </a>(a naturally occurring mineral which you can find in the laundry aisle of grocery stores). Borax is considered safe to use around pets and children, but since large quantities could make them sick, it's a good idea to watch both to ensure they don't eat the bait. </p><p>There are two tricks to using Borax as ant killer. The first is to correctly mix it with an ingredient that appeals to ants. Most ants are attracted to sugar, so the most common recipe is to mix equal parts of borax, warm water, and granulated sugar. If this doesn't seem to attract your ants, try equal parts of borax and peanut butter instead. </p><p>The second trick is to put the bait in the correct location. If you can see a line of ants marching, put the bait (placed on a plastic lid) at the beginning or end of the line. If you can see the ant's nest, put the bait there instead. The ants will eat this mixture, take it back to their nest, and die. </p><p>Fire ants are a whole different problem. They may not harm plants, but they can surely cause gardeners pain! <a href="https://amzn.to/3PdNop8" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Spinosad </a>(as discussed in the section on cabbage worms) is highly effective against fire ants if it's applied directly to their mounds <i>and </i>set out as bait. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Finally, Be Vigilant! </span></p><p>Even though organic methods of pest control are effective, often gardeners make the mistake of not being vigilant enough. Keep checking your garden daily. Re-apply sprays or powders or granules as needed. Keep gloves, a bucket, and dish soap handy in the garden to make hand picking easier. Don't neglect to hand pick every time you see a pest. (I assure you, there are plenty more pests you don't see, so you needn't be afraid of depriving wildlife of food.) </p><p>Small problems can lead to much bigger ones, and the best way to ensure insects don't destroy your garden is to be an alert watchman.
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</script></p><p></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2019/03/how-to-test-garden-soil.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="323" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYMocvqhP-u-G_jLy2f21psueJwJbNUQRlZg7f8RWbBbWiWjKBJQMNlQbj8zr5ILN4if9CkGUqWmzuHklnRuF3ZrvPeWeZ-B104_IgM_m6Dy2UTOjpvsw7JcmAdAHzrzFpnpwKdt44MUxhZhBK1RdfRFVeWBZtsFY57N4iKbA-krsPojKesmsbBrpz6dg/s320/how-to-test-garden-soil.jpg" width="258" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="335" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4Giem4EDdyqOr0Fyems8TwYfSeuB1qfgSnHo33ITUi4jPXOb6qzxlcKpv7taMgwqOgRG3o6BW4aGCuciMLoVJ0pnRmrmrLqOEq92YZgPuHETQXYHHj6vQ1t6mLs0OBGd-mmFzlQ-jlEEcvZU99rTjjajWaq-mfBZsDr9WnkdBDwjW0ETgVIDs5nTL80/s320/Creating-a-New-Vegetable-Garden.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/09/you-should-be-eating-that-waste-not.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="449" data-original-width="299" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeVro9oSwtCy3TrhhqxRlvpwsXyc8YXVprzRwwr1cxOt5fo5zSZKd-eeq9vXWm6h3hbuaf-0mYsTZ099WhhIMkeQ36W0cTNJ9hDnZDa4qVg1vMkbb07bAVlwKLEcfMjt2ga38rZspwqvwQ1rqmy0Ntss-TR2MxnK342auZmwBWRrXyTTedOu8sptOCrIg/s320/Waste%20Not%20Want%20Not%20in%20the%20Garden.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-8482152702257024062023-05-23T12:17:00.008-07:002023-06-01T09:26:09.713-07:00Using Red Mulch to Grow More Tomatoes<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. As
an Amazon Associate, and at no cost to you, I earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Are lots of ripe tomatoes <i>not </i>a sure thing where you live? Do you have trouble with tomato pests? Read on, because there may be a simple cure!</span><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1mGvuO3RzQkyHMhoHMbbjh6RPN4CkmgKutwNh9yMzRv9hkx4ui5cT81de1PfK5GAkTaHXH60T_o_-XxGARXqlaAIojZzDec5StXjoGAUDCAeonzvdZVvH2aiaCzNmfsHEtZW9iKDP0l9HRaXACXYq2c5NbOYjY8NQS9GoHiiypOqRN8rO_PmyUsp/s1500/Red-Mulch-to-Grow-More-Tomatoes.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Red Mulch for More Tomatoes" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="429" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1mGvuO3RzQkyHMhoHMbbjh6RPN4CkmgKutwNh9yMzRv9hkx4ui5cT81de1PfK5GAkTaHXH60T_o_-XxGARXqlaAIojZzDec5StXjoGAUDCAeonzvdZVvH2aiaCzNmfsHEtZW9iKDP0l9HRaXACXYq2c5NbOYjY8NQS9GoHiiypOqRN8rO_PmyUsp/w286-h429/Red-Mulch-to-Grow-More-Tomatoes.jpg" title="How to Use Red Mulch for Tomatoes" width="286" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>I live in a place where cool season crops (like cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower) grow fantastically, but where warm season crops (like corn and tomatoes) don't necessarily thrive. When we first moved to this homestead nearly eight years ago, I grew all our tomatoes in a small greenhouse. They did well, but I really wanted to see if I could successfully grow tomatoes outside, freeing up the greenhouse for other things. Last year, I finally got a good-sized garden in place and my hubby surrounded it <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" target="_blank">with proper deer fencing</a>. The tomatoes I planted did well...but many of them had to be ripened indoors. (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/07/the-easy-peasy-way-to-freeze-tomatoes.html" target="_blank">Learn how to ripen green tomatoes here</a>.) This year, however, I'm implementing some simple, but effective help.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVDpsQs-RbxA6UAJsysXwfMlhLaugskvDOlc1VT1ndyfUM3SvU-bl1y9KSWkYv2ZLtykS8P6LDrYG1mShtXLxMY7J0xxDXLJFiUPsD2aVepROhwfbMjjAU4GLeKMkV-CgNdphh7zdWsfv5rY4402hhbjZUluVqz5UdRge2rdLM9fj2N68fAJ5zBMJi/s2048/ripening%20green%20tomatoes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1972" data-original-width="2048" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVDpsQs-RbxA6UAJsysXwfMlhLaugskvDOlc1VT1ndyfUM3SvU-bl1y9KSWkYv2ZLtykS8P6LDrYG1mShtXLxMY7J0xxDXLJFiUPsD2aVepROhwfbMjjAU4GLeKMkV-CgNdphh7zdWsfv5rY4402hhbjZUluVqz5UdRge2rdLM9fj2N68fAJ5zBMJi/w370-h356/ripening%20green%20tomatoes.jpg" width="370" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ripening green tomatoes indoors at the end of the growing season</i>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: large;">Increasing Chances of Ripe Tomatoes </span><br /></p><p>For years I've known that there are two big things gardeners can do to increase the chance of getting ripe-on-the-vine tomatoes. One is to use a product called <a href="https://amzn.to/422m6oB" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">"wall o' water" or a plant cozy</a>. This is a plastic tube that you fill with water and then wrap around each tomato plant. It increases warmth around tomatoes - because it's warmth, not light, that causes the fruit to ripen. While these devices work well, I grow so many tomato plants that I'd have to invest more money than I'd like to warm my entire crop.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWaP_3JuYmJfVSD1IXc4kVWwwBOVyBscxBwaE4G5oI_SUf4yfJGeiM69hohETvl6LsJKfv1kinrrYweEK6cFyk1sypauKFrGatVN9jnCUMTMcK--jC7hb3UbBWj8dIc0xoPGgZxPXZaeepV3WtZoPKsDM9M9QPmYKGtCShXqUnvVuwV7CwX7OB0hyZ/s1440/harvesting%20tomatoes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWaP_3JuYmJfVSD1IXc4kVWwwBOVyBscxBwaE4G5oI_SUf4yfJGeiM69hohETvl6LsJKfv1kinrrYweEK6cFyk1sypauKFrGatVN9jnCUMTMcK--jC7hb3UbBWj8dIc0xoPGgZxPXZaeepV3WtZoPKsDM9M9QPmYKGtCShXqUnvVuwV7CwX7OB0hyZ/w373-h373/harvesting%20tomatoes.jpg" width="373" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Vine-ripened tomatoes are what we're after!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>However, <a href="https://amzn.to/422m6oB" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">if you take a peek at th</a><a href="https://amzn.to/422m6oB" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">ose device</a>s, you'll notice they are almost always red in color. Which leads me to the second thing gardeners can do to urge plants to grow ripe tomatoes: Use red mulch.</p><p>This may sound like a dubious old wives' tale, but Clemson University and the USDA's Agricultural Research Service did <a href="https://www.ars.usda.gov/news-events/news/research-news/1998/red-plastic-could-bloom-in-gardens-this-year/" target="_blank">testing and development</a> on red plastic mulch for tomatoes and discovered that this simple product can not only increase the size of individual fruit, but also increase overall tomato yields by 12 to 20%. (However, if you have ideal tomato growing conditions, red mulch may make absolutely zero difference in your crop yields; there are other benefits to using red plastic mulch, though...Keep reading.)<br /></p><p>Now, mulch of any kind is beneficial in the garden. It helps suppress weeds and keeps moisture and warmth in the soil. But it is red plastic in particular that is magical for tomatoes. This is because certain pigments in tomato plants, called<span style="background-color: initial;"> phytochromes, are actually color-sensitive proteins that regulate plant growth and development. These phytochromes have varied reactions to different types of light, and when light wavelengths from particular shades of red bounce up to tomato plants, the phytochromes make the plants fruit more abundantly and quickly.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: initial; font-size: large;">Deterring Tomato Pests<br /></span></p><p><span style="background-color: initial;">But wait! There's more! It turns out red plastic mulch also deters root knot </span>nematodes - pests that feed on the roots of tomato plants. The <a href="https://www.ars.usda.gov/news-events/news/research-news/1997/red-plastic-mulch-thwarts-nematodes/" target="_blank">Agricultural Research Service believes this</a> is because the light reflection from red plastic makes more of the growth of the plant happen above ground. In other words, more of the plant's energy and nutrition goes into making fruit and leaves instead of into making deeper, more nutritious roots...And without lots of nutritious roots to eat, nematodes are far less likely to attack tomato plants.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEPEWRL_4J2Zg4gvYJKxUAM3MoQ0UngehPN3uYZunTQIrtLkxkpay0YTxK0Q4dykSIGExFyT-nd8RBEZX1Iuix4dzMxXrYsm36vZfb083ne4NbAAzw8TqIg202Owic9xBvUpo3oszXaxHSykxzlEPz6CraAYqZCbnQc_CTrqfZTn1zkt8I4QHa99gu/s2016/9.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1504" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEPEWRL_4J2Zg4gvYJKxUAM3MoQ0UngehPN3uYZunTQIrtLkxkpay0YTxK0Q4dykSIGExFyT-nd8RBEZX1Iuix4dzMxXrYsm36vZfb083ne4NbAAzw8TqIg202Owic9xBvUpo3oszXaxHSykxzlEPz6CraAYqZCbnQc_CTrqfZTn1zkt8I4QHa99gu/w309-h414/9.jpg" width="309" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Using red mulch can increase tomato harvests by up to 20%.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">How to Apply Red Plastic Mulch to Tomatoes</span><br /></p><p>You can find red plastic mulch in many places where garden supplies are sold. Because I live in a small community, I ended up purchasing mine off Amazon. <a href="https://amzn.to/45qNakr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Here's the exact stuff I'm using</a>; I chose this particular plastic because it's a bit thicker (3 mil.) than many other brands, and I felt this would be easier to work with, would keep the soil warmer, and might be reusable for a few years. </p><p>I was tempted by the <a href="https://www.gardeners.com/buy/red-tomato-mulch/8586839.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">red plastic mulch sold by Gardener's Supply</a> because it's perforated, which would allow rain water in. However, this was the only place I could find perforated red mulch, and it was fairly pricey once I added in shipping. Plus, if perforations allow more water in, they also allow more light in, and that could lead to more weeds - which would be more difficult to pull if they are under plastic. </p><p>First, I laid the plastic over my beds; to eliminate frustration while working alone, I chose to cut smaller pieces of the plastic and lay them down individually. Then I determined exactly where I wanted to transplant my seedlings. Everywhere I wanted a plant to go, I cut into the plastic with scissors, making a plus-sign shape. I folded back the triangles this created and then planted my tomatoes in the resulting holes. Because it's windy here, I may end up cutting off these triangle flaps; we'll see if they inhibit the seedlings in any way. Another option is to use a <a href="https://www.johnnyseeds.com/tools-supplies/mulches-and-weed-barrier/mulch-tools-accessories/mulch-hole-burners/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">mulch hole burner</a> (sometimes called a horticultural hole punch) to create perfect holes to plant your seedlings in.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjIe7zCxQi4msbg4FOgcby4-PrJQWrKHQJjU63CABTCpjiVGgMw78lDKATBW58i2NSIWKVghGztTBm52vSbUH1dLhwIIP0EdSRJdiLnlNX5ZowJ-AYCB-V-TeiDaaIxpuQPGHBM2MQiTLGvtzzF1x6WQSF38QgXKwYut8MwyfsJXbD-Q_Yeomr-14l/s2416/20230518_104530.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2416" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjIe7zCxQi4msbg4FOgcby4-PrJQWrKHQJjU63CABTCpjiVGgMw78lDKATBW58i2NSIWKVghGztTBm52vSbUH1dLhwIIP0EdSRJdiLnlNX5ZowJ-AYCB-V-TeiDaaIxpuQPGHBM2MQiTLGvtzzF1x6WQSF38QgXKwYut8MwyfsJXbD-Q_Yeomr-14l/s320/20230518_104530.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cut a plus sign in the plastic.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA2xQ_-mf-qQjrPkVrKaTJeBU3wvajYNJxIVs82hbTG8TflHvWW5uofXdI3qtZghqItW6XadFVyMgjHqg2uIY53lBwULN0z_yNiCyKZB7_-vYupflUwzyeQc7Y59Yy6sntGCrffRf6wD-lIymNj_jYPs0pAv4RZMoYcibiX6-73CWmGArXQrF7a9Tj/s4000/20230523_111731.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA2xQ_-mf-qQjrPkVrKaTJeBU3wvajYNJxIVs82hbTG8TflHvWW5uofXdI3qtZghqItW6XadFVyMgjHqg2uIY53lBwULN0z_yNiCyKZB7_-vYupflUwzyeQc7Y59Yy6sntGCrffRf6wD-lIymNj_jYPs0pAv4RZMoYcibiX6-73CWmGArXQrF7a9Tj/s320/20230523_111731.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fold back the triangle flaps and plant a tomato seedling.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>I think you could easily weigh down the plastic with mulch or soil (just make sure the red plastic is well exposed all around the tomato plants; <a href="https://amzn.to/3MPXRVh" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">landscape staples</a> might be a good choice if you choose a thicker plastic. But we are in a very windy area, so I felt bricks (which I had on hand) would be the easiest solution to keeping the plastic in place. </p><p></p><p>To irrigate my tomato plants, I water by hand with a hose, focusing the spray inside each hole in the mulch. Another good option is to install <a href="https://amzn.to/3MqaR3G" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">drip irrigation</a> or a <a href="https://amzn.to/3WGPfEZ" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">soaker hose</a> underneath the plastic. <br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Is Red Mulch Good for Other Plants?</span></p><p>You might wonder if red plastic mulch works well for any other plants. Good question! I've found sources saying it <i>is </i>also helpful for peppers and eggplants (which makes sense, because tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are all in the same nightshade family), as well as strawberries (studies show the red plastic not only increases yields, but also <a href="https://lifehacker.com/grow-sweeter-bigger-strawberries-and-other-fruit-with-1692637990" target="_blank">makes strawberries sweeter</a>), beans, melons, and even more abundant turnip greens. As far as I can tell, not a lot of research has been done on other crops, but it could be fun to experiment and see what you think.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRcdXMl10YodZE7TmKLdNoZlpJRPY4LM-Rp8sLVeDD1R6G1Ih-AxGrP6lLCIT0E9ZG4IRfmv_yfMBbUiUkOEuAYHviTqTstHrXelQq70mXvNSddBIl6BsBSKnz9MZgzrzrslepOmwxUeeAeCSmBVsaJ5n8UpFqVuPFtr7KU9zIgrwsugj7wbpOm0hZ/s2443/20230523_111935.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2443" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRcdXMl10YodZE7TmKLdNoZlpJRPY4LM-Rp8sLVeDD1R6G1Ih-AxGrP6lLCIT0E9ZG4IRfmv_yfMBbUiUkOEuAYHviTqTstHrXelQq70mXvNSddBIl6BsBSKnz9MZgzrzrslepOmwxUeeAeCSmBVsaJ5n8UpFqVuPFtr7KU9zIgrwsugj7wbpOm0hZ/s320/20230523_111935.jpg" width="295" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My garden in progress, with some of the tomato seedlings nestled into red plastic mulch.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">BONUS: More Tips for Ensuring Ripe, Red Tomatoes</span></p><p>If you live in a cool climate or have a short growing season, there are a few other important things you can do to ensure you get a good crop of ripe tomatoes:</p><p><b>1. Choose the right variety. </b>If you live where temperatures are not ideal for growing most tomatoes, choose varieties that were developed for cool climates, such as those in Russia and Alaska. If your growing season is short, or you really want to maximize the number of ripe tomatoes you get, select varieties that mature more quickly, too.</p><p><b>2. Winter sow your seeds. </b>Not all tomato varieties will sprout when you winter sow them, but those that are ideal for cool climates should! <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/01/how-to-winter-sow-vegetables-and.html" target="_blank">Learn how to winter sow seeds here</a>.</p><p><b>3. If you choose to start your seeds indoors,</b> do so 6 - 8 weeks before you'll plant them outdoors. It's important to give your plants a proper head start.<br /></p><p><b>4. Manure tends to warm the soil</b>, so add it in the planting hole and consider using it as a top dressing underneath your red plastic mulch.<br /></p><p><b>5. Every yard has micro-climates</b>; put your tomato plants in the hottest spot you have.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts:</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/06/the-biggest-lie-about-growing-tomatoes.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="349" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KuJ3KIPYErDrC3frbsBxZYWI3HRQIpslhAjY5hcxo8xKvJtCeL0Ke2KA8jyDm_y3hGqHKtc1vtbpBu1v7E_mFbMAfN1qVljBgsJDI8eYjqEloY3HKq93ZRXpZ-99g9ODcigfLZNNAZFwhs347vpkEUWyqAG8U0FJK-pgv9HZ9IA7XAIOkxn7-0eP/w221-h404/The-Biggest-Lie-About-Growing-Tomatoes.jpg" width="221" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/01/how-to-grow-epic-tomatoes.html#.ZG0NbCjMKFY" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="265" data-original-width="400" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgZUDDyGLYO58OJa-huTmiElwz0qxTsqlT4n7WtRI6W_4NEyz95lCxxwZjqjhHuARgT8phm5lumE_g3BZSvk8JshI2xOLUccrhheiI_e8x446hgdInsQ2lhX4trCzNq9yqklP0DMcDTW0O44LmQWFvku3ieHrb6dN4Xbe4QPIeFITm7clALIn28Ha/s320/How-to-Grow-Epic-Tomatoes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2021/10/how-to-save-tomato-seeds-and-cucumber.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="286" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg34-UFAr6QmCG0C42I3L5WteKtb4u2hohKrwr_ep3p0y8Z-pQalVQRN-zhamDnGhtTOrO73kBWz_Zy93eyrnHsoJGKwuqX0sd_11jZw_Gfpk4tTnHX73aybtyqObOF6IOjdELZWzeE7fCVhcmqxzrmy4YxBodIYePWCfaW53L4VfJR0SztaeO2Osm8/w240-h360/How-to-Save-Tomato-Seeds.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2011/08/canning-tomatoes-why-how.html" target="_blank">How to Can Tomatoes</a></span></b><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2011/08/canning-tomatoes-why-how.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="261" data-original-width="400" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQKisnUyJIoUwRadGJrqmgJ3vu-8bfbvl-xoJTA2WrGQpD7lN1RAEKW7EhAzfs_J_5i9X5r3dpEPQC--UAfu72R0r4TT0y5XT4KWi9LuE9Epbun4IswVt2vH5ikd0MXm_BatFHMd4iFVac_sj6gcqkqLeSxw0o3rxdA2suc8QzpkLyJGXIsf6deoBF/s320/tomatoes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><br /><p> </p><p></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-89017848022314988982023-05-09T12:42:00.002-07:002023-05-09T12:43:11.023-07:00What is the Problem with Harvest Guard Reusable Canning Lids?<p>I've often recommended Harvest Guard reusable canning lids in the past (for example, <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/09/how-to-use-harvest-guard-reusable.html" target="_blank">in this post about how to use them</a>), but today there is a big problem with this product that you need to know about.</p><p>Last week, Harvest Guard emailed certain influencers, myself included, about a production situation they'd recently discovered. I spoke about this on Facebook and Instagram, but now that I have more information, I want to make sure those of you on YouTube and the blog know about it, too.</p><p>Watch the video below for the details, or keep reading.</p><p>
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<br /><p></p><p>During the shutdowns, Harvest Guard was hit hard, as were so many other small businesses. Once they were able to reopen their factory, the people who manufactured the rubber gaskets for their lids could not find enough workers to produce the quantities Harvest Guard required. So Harvest Guard started searching for someone else to produce their gaskets. At last, they found someone who could, but it meant buying a huge quantity of stock - much more than they were used to buying at once. Still, wanting to keep their customers stocked with reusable canning lids, they made the deal.</p><p>Some time later, however, Harvest Guard learned that these new gaskets were not truly reusable; they were one-time use only. This means that after one use, the gaskets (like the rubber on standard canning lids made by the likes of Ball) get a big indentation in them where they seal against a canning jar. These indentations don't go away, so getting a second (or third or fourth) seal from them is iffy, at best. And if you <i>do </i>get a seal, there's no guarantee it won't come lose in the pantry.</p><p>So, Harvest Guard announced they were reducing the price of their gaskets and offering three instead of just one with every lid. They also said that going forward, they would only sell one-time use gaskets. </p><p>Of course, the first question most people had was: "Did I buy reusable gaskets from Harvest Guard that are really only one-time use?" Immediately, I emailed Harvest Guard about this. Just yesterday, they gave an answer. <u>Yes, it <i>is </i>possible you got one-time se gaskets when you were attempting to by reusable ones.</u></p><p>The good news is, Harvest Guard is promising to give customers who erroneously ended up with one-time use gaskets replacement reusable gaskets free of charge. All you have to do is email them at info@canninglids.com. (In your email, I recommend including a photo of your one-time use gaskets; I'd hate to see scammers get free product.)<br /></p><p>Harvest Guard has also decided to <i><u>continue selling reusable gaskets</u></i>, even if just in limited quantities. Their website now clearly labels their reusable and one-time use gasket offerings.</p><p>But how do you know if you got one-time use gaskets when you bought reusable ones? Fortunately, it's easy to tell. The one-time use gaskets are bright red. The reusable ones are duller - a sort of brownish red.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaTOpwu8DyiVzpL7PKwdUIyLiki4BQAii_TrY8uY0dxh-e5I4axEIcyGedbaGUWxrJdWcoCPX9Thev1qldyxJ4k5HvX3eSHTTcbq9PGh80UagqzIic9NCqtToIVPbN7zYCM9Eksqm5CT4An7WLmevrRiLTNAnTtYxVTFRMd1HqaHtPv5fJCled_pGn/s2048/Harvest%20Guard%20gaskets.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1704" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaTOpwu8DyiVzpL7PKwdUIyLiki4BQAii_TrY8uY0dxh-e5I4axEIcyGedbaGUWxrJdWcoCPX9Thev1qldyxJ4k5HvX3eSHTTcbq9PGh80UagqzIic9NCqtToIVPbN7zYCM9Eksqm5CT4An7WLmevrRiLTNAnTtYxVTFRMd1HqaHtPv5fJCled_pGn/w377-h454/Harvest%20Guard%20gaskets.jpg" width="377" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The bright red gaskets on the bottom are one-time use. The duller gaskets on top are reusable.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7XB7Myr1XlOGvqtR-M-AqdcNlDPRC1uF_e1eEEvgmVLgVBTNqow-ff78Byer6yOnNYOUEhQvzm63RvZiPmqvQlgIm_TOnkFMOSs-5K_yp4L7lXHotwBymUt4wnncISqMzNwGLuoYapNNz-mFP2LuLhl9ktFBedbHu_ETrS7LCwKdN6FWlEPHLsvw2/s1080/Harvest%20Guard%20one%20time%20vs%20reusable%20lids.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1017" data-original-width="1080" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7XB7Myr1XlOGvqtR-M-AqdcNlDPRC1uF_e1eEEvgmVLgVBTNqow-ff78Byer6yOnNYOUEhQvzm63RvZiPmqvQlgIm_TOnkFMOSs-5K_yp4L7lXHotwBymUt4wnncISqMzNwGLuoYapNNz-mFP2LuLhl9ktFBedbHu_ETrS7LCwKdN6FWlEPHLsvw2/s320/Harvest%20Guard%20one%20time%20vs%20reusable%20lids.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Reusable gaskets (left) vs. one-time use gaskets (right), from the Harvest Guard website.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>Now, I understand that many people are unhappy about this situation. I wasn't thrilled to learn that some of the gaskets I'd purchased were not reusable.<u> <i>HOWEVER</i></u>, I have high praise for Harvest Guard. Many companies would have swept this problem under the rug. Harvest Guard, on the other hand, was open and honest with their customers. They are doing the right thing: Not only are they being transparent about their error, but they are compensating customers who mistakenly received the wrong product.</p><p>I hope you will continue to support Harvest Guard, as I will. We only have two companies making reusable canning lids; both are small businesses and I want <i>both </i>to stay in business because they provide a valuable homesteading product.</p><p>Can on!</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-149019115831189622023-04-27T12:53:00.000-07:002023-04-27T12:53:25.894-07:00Get the Most from Your Vegetable Garden<p><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQsGHVe5Tsvy-bXk41QyWF7njRkSsgZ1Mg8AEwc2DEDsghxfMfBc2ZU0q1gakWn9r8ZzcKunG5u9Y4KrLzh9ZTe0ljqRfbAu4H0q7hvMfbekwRMP8Sbuyt-rssxEncRUMV582ywnjYxMiBo_Iq1nE8bY2CxSfgO0-TKclPQ6_pAtEzlJA33NEdkqn_/s1500/Get-the-most-from-your-vegetable-garden.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Get the most from your vegetable garden" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQsGHVe5Tsvy-bXk41QyWF7njRkSsgZ1Mg8AEwc2DEDsghxfMfBc2ZU0q1gakWn9r8ZzcKunG5u9Y4KrLzh9ZTe0ljqRfbAu4H0q7hvMfbekwRMP8Sbuyt-rssxEncRUMV582ywnjYxMiBo_Iq1nE8bY2CxSfgO0-TKclPQ6_pAtEzlJA33NEdkqn_/w342-h514/Get-the-most-from-your-vegetable-garden.jpg" title="maximizing yeilds in the vegetable garden" width="342" /></a></span></i></div><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. As
an Amazon Associate, and at no cost to you, I earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i><p></p><p>When you set your mind to grow your own food, you don't want your garden merely acceptable - you want it as productive as possible, giving high yields of healthy food. Here's my advice on how to make that happen. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Feed Your Soil </span></p><p>The number one thing you can do to maximize your garden and improve yields is to feed your soil well. The more accessible nutrients your soil contains, the healthier your plants are, and<br /> the more food they will produce. </p><p>The best way to begin feeding your soil is to <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2019/03/how-to-test-garden-soil.html" target="_blank">conduct a simple soil test</a>. You can either purchase an inexpensive soil testing kit at a gardening center, or you can mail samples to a soil testing company. Either way, the results will tell you if your soil is low in any macronutrient, and how to amend the soil to correct any deficiencies. Ideally, testing is done in the fall, so that any organic amendments you use will have time to break down and become accessible to plants come spring - but as long as the soil isn't frozen, you really can do testing and amending any time of year. </p><p>No matter what your soil test says, however, you should always add lots of organic matter (such as manure, dry grass clippings, dry leaves, and compost) to the soil at least a couple of times a year. In my garden, I add <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/08/why-bunny-manure-is-best-fertilizer-ever.html" target="_blank">rabbit manure </a>(which does not have to age before going into the garden) or chicken and quail manure (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/07/how-to-use-manure-in-garden.html" target="_blank">which <i>does </i>need to age first</a>), as well as <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/02/composting-easy-cheap-way.html" target="_blank">homemade compost</a>, to my soil in the late winter or early spring, before planting anything new in the garden. Once my garden is planted, I often add wood chip mulch. Throughout the growing seasons, I add more manure and/or compost, as needed, giving special attention to plants that feed heavily, like tomatoes. Finally, as the garden quiets down in the late fall, I add more manure, so it can break down over winter. If I'm really on top of things, I also add additional mulch, to help suppress weeds over the winter; as the mulch breaks down, it also adds nutrients to the soil. </p><p>Because vegetables grow quickly and need lots of nutrients to do so, you should also consider fertilizing your garden. For instance, I like to fertilize seedlings with <a href="https://amzn.to/3HgtIfv" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">fish emulsion</a>, which is packed with nitrogen and encourages leafy green growth. I also fertilize tomatoes all season long, using manure tea or a store-bought <a href="https://amzn.to/3HgtIfv" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">balanced vegetable fertilizer</a>. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFmVxttIPAtEiDqdQS-TIJRroVgvfgl61niQAPWLxLQNKIHzuMhBQpdj3hLDNXy02trZETZYmHERE-yrJYpXyu0j1CiYihu7YTyUO2YOwZyI9qlSi_7lMARJvbCYATWqqIe20Ektb4mMCuFl6f8vmpZ-f3Ff9T7njOVjasYq64FaR2vyBSCXSMt3H/s3024/Choosing%20the%20right%20vegetable%20varieties.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFmVxttIPAtEiDqdQS-TIJRroVgvfgl61niQAPWLxLQNKIHzuMhBQpdj3hLDNXy02trZETZYmHERE-yrJYpXyu0j1CiYihu7YTyUO2YOwZyI9qlSi_7lMARJvbCYATWqqIe20Ektb4mMCuFl6f8vmpZ-f3Ff9T7njOVjasYq64FaR2vyBSCXSMt3H/w340-h340/Choosing%20the%20right%20vegetable%20varieties.jpg" width="340" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">If you want to maximize your garden, it's important
to plant quick-growing varieties.</span></i></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Choose the Right Varieties </span></p><p>An oft-overlooked tip for maximizing your garden is to choose vegetable varieties that grow quickly. For example, if I have a choice between a variety of beans that takes 54 days to reach maturity and a variety that takes 75 days to reach maturity, I'll almost always go with the faster-growing variety. (The only reasons I might go with a longer-growing variety is if it has a certain disease resistance I need or if I just really favor its flavor.) If I gather in the harvest and plant something else in that quick-growing plant's place, ultimately, I get more food from the same amount of garden soil. </p><p>It's also smart to consider how many big producers vs. small producers you are planting. One example is Brussels sprouts vs. collards. Being relatively big plants that must grow all spring, summer, and fall before their delicious heads are ready for harvesting in the late fall or winter, Brussels sprouts are a small producer. </p><p>On the other hand, collards are a big producer. They produce food continually throughout spring, summer, and fall. They will even survive some snow, giving you winter harvests. If your goal is to fully maximize your garden, you'll want a lot of big producers and few, if any, small producers. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Get Cozy </span></p><p>Planting crops in rows is a poor use of space. Instead, plant in berms or plots. Arc the soil at the center of your berms or raised beds, which will give you a bit more space for plants. </p><p>Plant things at minimum distances apart; not only will you get more plants in your allotted space, but vegetables that grow close together choke out weeds. This saves you work and prevents weeds from competing with food crops for soil nutrients and moisture. </p><p>Also, whenever possible, interplant. For example, plant out your tomatoes in the spring, and then, in the space around those tomatoes, plant lettuce, radishes, or other quick-growing, smaller veggies that won't crowd out your tomato plants and will be harvested long before the tomato plants get large. Let no space go to waste in your garden! </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMCYN2imXv2ctoneq7f1Sa7XSd2duRiF1118BM8FqKlCLzZufvHk1JzsMh1oc_4bue8eoinC0fO2wZt-GWiy8F35YgkbNkC4zW9TDbC7hz9UBdWwioxv9nUqjKHPb21crze16ZafiiAWfwR8zT0rEhVIKBGIUzJRPdH_PgakV5v3rrdG39lM4znbn/s3024/garden%20berms.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMCYN2imXv2ctoneq7f1Sa7XSd2duRiF1118BM8FqKlCLzZufvHk1JzsMh1oc_4bue8eoinC0fO2wZt-GWiy8F35YgkbNkC4zW9TDbC7hz9UBdWwioxv9nUqjKHPb21crze16ZafiiAWfwR8zT0rEhVIKBGIUzJRPdH_PgakV5v3rrdG39lM4znbn/w340-h340/garden%20berms.jpg" width="340" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><i>Planting in arced berms gives you more space to
plant food.</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Succession Plant </span></p><p>If you want to eat fresh veggies, spring through fall, succession planting is highly valuable. To achieve this, simply plant a certain amount of one type of vegetable one week, and then every week or two after that, plant a little more. That first planting should reach maturity first; harvest that bounty and eat it right then. As subsequent plantings mature, continue to eat them right away. </p><p>If you're looking to can lots of vegetables, you may be inclined to avoid succession planting and instead plant all your seeds (or seedlings) at once; however, if there are vegetables that aren't safe to can (or perhaps you don't enjoy eating them after they are canned), it pays to succession plant them. Another good reason to succession plant even when you want to preserve most of your veggies is that having huge gluts of food come in all at once makes preserving exhausting. If the harvests come in a little at a time, the task of canning, freezing, or otherwise preserving the food is much more manageable. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Vertical Gardening </span></p><p>You can save a lot of space in your garden, allowing you to raise more food, if you grow some of your plants vertically. Train them up fences, trellises, poles, and tepees...really anything you can devise that is sturdy enough to support the growth. Good candidates for vertical growing include pole beans, cucumbers, peas, and summer squash. You can even grow smaller winter squashes and melons vertically if you devise slings made of soft netting to help support the edible part of the fruit or veggie. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ve-bg13EW6UNYndeC9iFLPI3elZ_HzsGnb5HPHdrSIwudNH347TzpOzengs19dd1JX2mIGphANvcLHr1zQ5kSaQuPh2Srql34laRs_-pkGUI7TGZ4k3cKMh7A0BHPQcWxLaN9ZVyC_WXC2mgQwXyQaJs2MxSMl4vebODoc5VCdUIQihovTnr4Jya/s3024/vegetable%20garden%20yeilds.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ve-bg13EW6UNYndeC9iFLPI3elZ_HzsGnb5HPHdrSIwudNH347TzpOzengs19dd1JX2mIGphANvcLHr1zQ5kSaQuPh2Srql34laRs_-pkGUI7TGZ4k3cKMh7A0BHPQcWxLaN9ZVyC_WXC2mgQwXyQaJs2MxSMl4vebODoc5VCdUIQihovTnr4Jya/w358-h358/vegetable%20garden%20yeilds.jpg" width="358" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A thriving vegetable garden requires the correct amount of water.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p><span style="font-size: large;">Optimal Watering </span></p><p>Last year, my neighbor stared at my vegetable garden, bemoaning his gardening skills. As we discussed why my garden was thriving and his was not, one of the important points that came up was water. I live in a windy area where we don't get rain during the summer. Therefore, during the warm months, I water my garden every single day. This astonished my neighbor. But the fact is, plants will not grow to their full potential if they are dehydrated. </p><p>Now, you may not have to water daily as I do, but you should check your soil frequently for moisture. Every day, stick a finger an inch or so down in the dirt. If it feels moist, your plants are fine. If it feels dry, you need to give them water. </p><p>When irrigating, water deeply, and whenever possible, water only at the base of plants, avoiding the leaves. Using a sprinkler is easy, but it puts a lot of water on plant leaves. Much of this water gets "wasted" through evaporation. </p><p>To avoid diseases that slow down or kill your crops, water in the morning, before it gets hot, so that any water that accidentally lands on plant leaves can evaporate off during the day. (When you water in the evening, water may linger on plants overnight, encouraging fungal and bacterial diseases.) </p><p>To water less and keep your plants stress-free, use thick layers of organic mulch to hold moisture into the soil. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Keep Weeds Down </span></p><p>Weeds compete with vegetables for both water and nutrients. This means a weedy garden is a struggling garden. No one wants to spend tons of time weeding, so here are a few tips for keeping weeds down while still having a life outside of the garden: </p><p><u>1. Use the no-dig method: </u>Place two layers of plain cardboard (edges overlapped) over mowed weeds, and then spread either garden soil or compost (for growing spaces) or a thick layer of organic mulch (for walkways) over the top. This not only helps suppress and kill weeds, but if weeds do manage to come up, they are MUCH easier to pull. The cardboard and mulch also slowly break down, feeding the soil. (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" target="_blank">Find full instructions for creating a no-dig garden here</a>.)<br /></p><p><u>2. Weed early and often.</u> If there are weeds in the garden, try to weed a little every day, instead of pushing yourself into marathon weeding sessions. </p><p><u>3. Never let weeds go to seed.</u> If you can't pull or dig out weeds that are blossoming, cut off their heads to prevent their seeds from spreading. </p><p><u>4. Make sure your garden is well-weeded by the end of fall. </u>That way, come spring, you should have fewer weeds to contend with. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlb3HiwIYjop9KDNm5mIsqkD95kUhwrdpXh3m9xgQlK6Iz9CshR5vLHMdE17jCwF5eudq07CpOH5-kiNLdw3j56ag_G8GA01u4fT1uBl1gg43mg90SGCGI26gzrsreZH8WPYQZHDAQdM0AEMOnJZ0P23vC8F-3saOO2Leja-htReuw3sO91Z4LqbWg/s3024/fall%20winter%20vegetable%20garden.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="355" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlb3HiwIYjop9KDNm5mIsqkD95kUhwrdpXh3m9xgQlK6Iz9CshR5vLHMdE17jCwF5eudq07CpOH5-kiNLdw3j56ag_G8GA01u4fT1uBl1gg43mg90SGCGI26gzrsreZH8WPYQZHDAQdM0AEMOnJZ0P23vC8F-3saOO2Leja-htReuw3sO91Z4LqbWg/w355-h355/fall%20winter%20vegetable%20garden.jpg" width="355" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Keep your garden going into fall - and even winter!</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script><p><span style="font-size: large;">Extend It </span></p><p>As the cold months approach, gardening isn't over! For example, you could install cold frames, row covers, hoop houses, or a greenhouse to extend your growing season into winter. </p><p>More than that, you can easily have a thriving fall garden - and, depending upon your location, even a winter garden. Choose cool-season crops (such as cabbage, lettuce, kale, collards, peas, broccoli, cauliflower, bush beans, radishes, spinach, and turnips), and sow the seed so it will have plenty of time to mature before your first hard frost. To determine this timeline, look up the first killing frost date for your area, then check your seed packets to see how many days to maturity your plants require. Count backward that exact number of days, then add time for the seeds to germinate and be transplanted out into the garden. <br /></p><p>Here's an example of how to do that: If I want to plant Buttercrunch lettuce for my fall garden, I note that the seed packet says it takes 48 days to reach maturity. It also says the seeds take 2 to 15 days to germinate. So I need about 63 days for my lettuce to go from sowing to harvesting. If my first killing frost is November 21st, I know I need to plant the last of my lettuce no later than September 19th. If I can plant a few weeks earlier than that, all the better, since plants tend to grow more slowly as the weather cools and the hours of sunlight they see diminishes. (Do note that if your September is hot, you'll need to shade your lettuce seedlings until the weather cools; otherwise, the lettuce will tend to "bolt" or go to seed.) </p><p><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/07/how-to-start-fall-garden-in-july.html" target="_blank">For more information on creating a fall garden, click here</a>.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHg8bUZlsTCy9Fp6Fz7WQmInSSfSzuQP9kkxgY-r2FB44_h1y66E-iRNNHLZkV5dFhM2BYwSc9_z4IelMl0OeubCUbkKuFeYfzqarU5bIKJglhZx8Xrt5cTPchKrPyxTYkbTmkr5kaQkAxiDv1SokdM-pnWiNDGR3TUxpTrMsPiP1n9Sd0QJ0kQ7jA/s3024/fall%20vegetable%20harvest.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="367" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHg8bUZlsTCy9Fp6Fz7WQmInSSfSzuQP9kkxgY-r2FB44_h1y66E-iRNNHLZkV5dFhM2BYwSc9_z4IelMl0OeubCUbkKuFeYfzqarU5bIKJglhZx8Xrt5cTPchKrPyxTYkbTmkr5kaQkAxiDv1SokdM-pnWiNDGR3TUxpTrMsPiP1n9Sd0QJ0kQ7jA/w367-h367/fall%20vegetable%20harvest.jpg" width="367" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Catching problems early results in higher garden yields.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Be Vigilant </span></p><p>One unfortunate reason gardens can be less productive is disease and pests - but there are several ways to avoid this, or at least minimize the damage. </p><p>The first trick is to choose varieties that are resistant to the diseases that are common to your garden. Does late blight keep hitting your tomatoes, despite careful cultivation? By choosing a tomato variety that's resistant to late blight, you are far more likely to have a successful tomato harvest. </p><p>Another trick is to aim for biodiversity. Plant lots of different veggies. Throw some flowers in, too, if possible. (For instance, aphids will attack nasturtiums before they go for almost any other plant. The nasturtiums in your garden can look pretty for a while, and then become a sacrifice to save your food crops.) Also, instead of having one row of broccoli and another row of lettuce, interplant them or scatter varieties across your garden. That way, when pests or disease do come, your entire crop likely won't be hit. </p><p>If you know flying pests have been a problem in the past, be proactive and put row covers over your plants. Get them on as soon as you plant seedlings, though, or the pests may beat you to the punch. </p><p>It's also tremendously helpful to be on the lookout for early signs of disease or pests. Check your garden <i>at least</i> once a week - more ideally, every day - for hints that your plants are under attack. At the first sign of pests or disease, strike back! For instance, if you catch aphids when they are just beginning to suck the sap from your plants, you can spray them off with a blast of hose water or hit them with insecticidal oil, preventing a more serious problem. On the other hand, if you wait until the infestation is large, you'll likely lose your crop, no matter what steps you take.</p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Posts:</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="335" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLw2YylGLkqbYraHCk1eb6gj-e1urHfVVxlWfENkcesjDZ8aBOSX8NLZyz3hybFD60PijN2zud5-qmhRyOqfcKsADrdCPKTU8iqkvImgh1URALQFQWB_diayhRSpmSY0JpwZMo8ov1MPvokyUoD7ch1Qej8ZsdqLTQXgnyAc06f2glBW562t-Pz9KP/s320/Creating-a-New-Vegetable-Garden.jpg" width="241" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/07/how-to-start-fall-garden-in-july.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhP-j1AXAUFtY6HOaMhOsKxNdy6qXBwEyTZ2C9GtS24MnwXTEFHmVOTO_7rWRq-kbNMY_Ya8xEHkadug5Adcntw7dVvaU2O1Da-SdRSJIkYjRcKcbCNa82CD3Fo3XsIqNBgvKX8BzehJZoOwkWgbVgAdeIBz3C2YV47opK7iWpMmAJskGXxt_pXmhl/s320/Start-a-Fall-Garden-in-July.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2015/01/vegetables-to-harvest-in-winter.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHtB3UrOhZ1D6OACOLvEfTqFEdl6bIzE7-aBezmFeqCnIJeOUE47zPgOEoqOpcpcqkEh9qh69ladtajQbh40DSNqME2mQQW8GoH8a3ZN_2l7i5XjNQU-un6yRZOcrx2dNTX2esQORvxPZlrYFMsDd1VHeQGBqErqAYq9mBmDwdbjcsXa6RIE9oAINk/s320/Winter-Vegetables.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2019/03/how-to-test-garden-soil.html" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="323" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQgtVxwbc2Bhkj7tqwKtJmBzme3EvI6BUv3uuCA9IcvC2B7qN1CdtSBniuElUwn3bXX1NKMNoP7ygGGwe6CTvSVSz7AtDpWLRCB7U8Ekj0N7yO6zmMPA3oO85IpdV6jHHxVBRwWkhU-U5GbEmn0QyuA9-ZCMn6sSlxaJ07orkxgu8I3EryHiYY3BS7/s320/how-to-test-garden-soil.jpg" width="258" /></a></div><br /><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-80094130993907814642023-04-20T13:01:00.002-07:002024-01-21T09:56:33.209-08:00How to Can Kale and Other Leafy Greens<p><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i></i></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8X-lTcSAVMVOlbPXyAh2ZmWFltI2zv7CLOwSBzIERDEFMIKakTACxkvNDHf9yfx6IXuIqD2U6Nmom_74dK9fQhnaqFkZNjBJcmwHbPpqF4fK2B2No0OGTYNjFj0oai9WnBeI1CT-nS2H9vFICU_SiTO9EKSXNQiMUkFtuKDmvV-J8NPZHWumb142q/s1500/How-to-Can-Kale-and-Other-Leafy-Greens.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="How to Can Kale and Other Leafy Greens" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="451" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8X-lTcSAVMVOlbPXyAh2ZmWFltI2zv7CLOwSBzIERDEFMIKakTACxkvNDHf9yfx6IXuIqD2U6Nmom_74dK9fQhnaqFkZNjBJcmwHbPpqF4fK2B2No0OGTYNjFj0oai9WnBeI1CT-nS2H9vFICU_SiTO9EKSXNQiMUkFtuKDmvV-J8NPZHWumb142q/w289-h451/How-to-Can-Kale-and-Other-Leafy-Greens.jpg" title="Pressure Canning Kale and Other Leafy Green Vegetables" width="289" /></a><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post may contain affiliate links. As
an Amazon Associate, and at no cost to you, I earn from qualifying
purchases made through some links. Please see FCC disclosure for full
information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i></div><p></p><p>Last year, I over-planted kale...big time. I start all my leafy greens by seed in the spring and then we eat off them all spring, summer, fall, and winter. (Yes, kale an collards overwinter nicely unless you get feet of snow! <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2015/01/vegetables-to-harvest-in-winter.html" target="_blank">L</a><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2015/01/vegetables-to-harvest-in-winter.html" target="_blank">earn more about overwintering veggies here</a>.) And while we love leafy greens (especially when they are sliced and then sauteed in bacon drippings or olive oil, along with some onion, garlic, salt, pepper...and maybe some bacon pieces...yum!), there was only so much we could eat. I hate to see produce go to waste - and nobody seemed to want my free offerings of kale. Although I've blanched and <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2013/04/how-to-preserve-dandelion-greens-and.html" target="_blank">frozen leafy greens</a> in the past, this winter I thought: "I should try canning this kale."</p><p>But my schedule has been hectic this year, and my kale bolted (started to flower) before I got around to the project. Usually, this makes vegetables bitter, but my kale still tasted great. So last weekend, I finally took the plunge.</p><p>But before I give you the how-tos, I want to issue a couple of small warnings. I canned my kale in the morning, and when I went back
into the canning kitchen in the evening, it smelled like I had a gas or
propane leak...but I don't have any gas or propane in the canning
kitchen! The smell turned out to be the water in my pressure
canner, which was tinted green from the kale. So if you're canning
inside your home, you'll probably want to crack open a window.<br /></p><p>Thankfully, when I opened a couple of jars several days later, the contents did <i>not </i>smell
like gas or propane! As far as taste went, my entire family preferred the jars
seasoned the way Angi Schneider suggests...but none of us were real fans of either version of canned kale. I want to stress here that we are used to lightly cooked leafy greens. If you enjoy
traditional Southern-style greens, which are cooked for a long time,
or store bought canned greens, you may well enjoy home-canned leafy
greens. You'll never know until you try them!<br /></p><p><b><u>IMPORTANT NOTE:</u></b> Canning leafy greens requires the use of a pressure canner. (<a href="https://amzn.to/3A4LkXG" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Here's the canner I used</a>.) Do not water bath kale or other leafy greens. Do not use a pressure <i>cooker </i>to can them, either. (Not sure what the <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2016/12/pressure-canners-vs-pressure-cookers.html" target="_blank">difference is between a pressure canner and a pressure cooker? Click here</a>.) If it's been a while since you've pressure canned, <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/06/canning-101-how-to-use-pressure-canner.html" target="_blank">review this how-to guide</a>. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3rgfG_f0kXdVf8DhSQO7rR6Hgt5lkFNG6du_94Mj1TxqSzBVPw5krHfeziuJmUcTK6ixF0yi3ifGdw3LJHQsFUOqdLZEcZnLhQNCZKX_uSU4w2DQG9O9USa6ndNDfBnUdOBDwmdddTISfDlN0bzSlBYfriOzqoA6eyhpwUo9JK79eDESQu2DLN6K/s4000/Overwintered%20kale.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="421" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3rgfG_f0kXdVf8DhSQO7rR6Hgt5lkFNG6du_94Mj1TxqSzBVPw5krHfeziuJmUcTK6ixF0yi3ifGdw3LJHQsFUOqdLZEcZnLhQNCZKX_uSU4w2DQG9O9USa6ndNDfBnUdOBDwmdddTISfDlN0bzSlBYfriOzqoA6eyhpwUo9JK79eDESQu2DLN6K/w237-h421/Overwintered%20kale.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Harvesting over-wintered kale for canning.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">How to Can Kale & Other Leafy Greens </span><br /></p><p>The National Center for Home Food Preservation (<a href="https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_04/spinach_greens.html" target="_blank">NCHFP</a>) says it takes about 28 pounds of leafy greens to fill 7 quart jars. After picking a large basket-full of kale and then removing the large stems, I had about 4 lbs. of Wild Russian kale, which gave me 7 pint jars, plus part of a half-pint jar: Enough to fill my canner. Here's the process: <br /></p><p>1. Start by using the freshest leafy greens possible. Do not use frozen greens. Do not use older greens that are getting wilty from sitting in the refrigerator. Do not use greens that look yellow or brown. <br /></p><p>2. NCHFP instructs us to thoroughly wash leafy greens before canning them. While I wouldn't have washed my kale before sauteing it for dinner, I went ahead and washed them for this project. I simply filled my sink with cool water and added a few large handfuls of kale at a time. If your greens are dirty, you'll need to rinse and repeat as needed. In my case, the water stayed clean, so I didn't repeat the washing.</p><p>3. Remove the thick stems. For most greens, you can simply place your fingers on the bottom of the stem, then run them down the sides of it to push off the leaves.</p><p>4. Place an inch of two of water in a large pot and place it over medium heat. Once the water is hot (not simmering or boiling), add the prepared greens. The idea here is to just wilt the leaves. To prevent overcooking, stir repeatedly. Remove wilted leaves with a slotted spoon and place them in a sink filled with ice water (to stop the cooking). You can also use a steamer basket for this step; <a href="https://amzn.to/3N1T5Wr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">this is the one I use</a>.<br /></p><p>5. In the meantime, fill a pot with water and place it over high heat. Bring to a boil.</p><p>6. Pack the prepared greens into pint or quart jars, leaving 1 inch headspace.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6_DCsxNXdwkwYNZZctmFuE4odItzES8ph1j4Vu49qhcEZ_plmjIq7kwUPHlFIlWXoXEcdcEGZJHiun884VvffKubF68ZL1Q3g7z6wlA-jWcYyie9eL_8Hdrd9oErFhn5TSP2M6FOdpwreDiHThInRu35xpyQmRH99Zs94Fvry1yu4vCxsp4aoMnEs/s3348/Filling%20jars.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3348" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6_DCsxNXdwkwYNZZctmFuE4odItzES8ph1j4Vu49qhcEZ_plmjIq7kwUPHlFIlWXoXEcdcEGZJHiun884VvffKubF68ZL1Q3g7z6wlA-jWcYyie9eL_8Hdrd9oErFhn5TSP2M6FOdpwreDiHThInRu35xpyQmRH99Zs94Fvry1yu4vCxsp4aoMnEs/s320/Filling%20jars.jpg" width="215" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Packing jars.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>7. Add seasoning. NCHFP recommends 1/2 teaspoon of <a href="https://amzn.to/3KBNCCE" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">canning salt</a> per pint jar or 1 teaspoon per quart jar. In <i><a href="https://amzn.to/3GJQPz8" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Ultimate Guide to Preserving Vegetables</a></i>, Angi Schneider recommends 1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder, 1/4 teaspoon of canning salt, 1 teaspoon of bottled lemon juice, an 1/4 cup of chopped onions for every pint jar. I did some jars just with salt and some with Angi's seasonings. (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2021/10/the-best-canning-resources-for-safe.html" target="_blank">See my review of Schneider's book here</a>.)</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqUJK70TyfpdhcnAslZlTdxedRqpLYVdGDhA0ZLFtX-NzUa-iop71OqOLIEntswTElMxdZ5DZThp7rw17Ywp7lDnmi6lgLKKzsHvK4GQ6hi-NbIF1Z17IFGE-jZXUyRz-fGkkj2Ctat9q_Ca92kRt3ka_ooe-ck6nda0DWRUdpMctYGvnAeMVNL7KY/s3060/Adding%20Seasonings.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3060" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqUJK70TyfpdhcnAslZlTdxedRqpLYVdGDhA0ZLFtX-NzUa-iop71OqOLIEntswTElMxdZ5DZThp7rw17Ywp7lDnmi6lgLKKzsHvK4GQ6hi-NbIF1Z17IFGE-jZXUyRz-fGkkj2Ctat9q_Ca92kRt3ka_ooe-ck6nda0DWRUdpMctYGvnAeMVNL7KY/s320/Adding%20Seasonings.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Adding seasoning to jars.<br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>8. Pour boiling water into the jars, maintaining 1 inch headspace.</p><p>9. Bubble jars, wipe rims, put on a lid and ring, and process pint jars for 1 hour and 10 minutes, quart jars for 1 hour and 30 minutes in a pressure canner.<b>*</b></p><p><b> </b><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">* NOTE:</span> Read <a href="http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/adjustments-for-highaltitude-canning.html">this important information about adjusting canning times for your altitude.</a></p><p><b> </b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTIZ-a35iyVrVMMxRS4muTw_FtCFvajViK69Tc4O9f0xaFA1u79qebr7GZty0IwjqvknSBem3UJOmacL4zShWwa9BgvKftG-prurUvazUXFoa4DHsifFsSxS1ats9d1Rjh_xs0NplQ_l9Mj8AJLO4sNMZpwBVLQFzBt4rBYV--crjsJ8Ezeozo_sn/s3165/canning%20kale.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3165" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTIZ-a35iyVrVMMxRS4muTw_FtCFvajViK69Tc4O9f0xaFA1u79qebr7GZty0IwjqvknSBem3UJOmacL4zShWwa9BgvKftG-prurUvazUXFoa4DHsifFsSxS1ats9d1Rjh_xs0NplQ_l9Mj8AJLO4sNMZpwBVLQFzBt4rBYV--crjsJ8Ezeozo_sn/s320/canning%20kale.jpg" width="228" /></a></b></div><b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHrD5gbcNNYfRLaHjbasJZvXyz9His2kEPv8SbLTKZ8lnvk5WDgyA6w8tzYX5JRF-I0OgpaBTi1Nk4wbgD46yP4QMcnUR_jn6W88ZV3wnqr6AhgYda3EUFoGXeiNJ2beYjxcOTe5PqLZkQ7kZ17zT6vM8zXn5lXIStV2to2n18NmxHwZyi8OBjfoU_/s4000/Canned%20kale.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2252" data-original-width="4000" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHrD5gbcNNYfRLaHjbasJZvXyz9His2kEPv8SbLTKZ8lnvk5WDgyA6w8tzYX5JRF-I0OgpaBTi1Nk4wbgD46yP4QMcnUR_jn6W88ZV3wnqr6AhgYda3EUFoGXeiNJ2beYjxcOTe5PqLZkQ7kZ17zT6vM8zXn5lXIStV2to2n18NmxHwZyi8OBjfoU_/s320/Canned%20kale.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Canned kale.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></b><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Tips for Success<br /></span></p><p>Canned greens tend to lose liquid during the canning process. As long as the finished jars are <u><i>at least half full of liquid once they are processed</i></u>, the jars are safe to store and eat.</p><p>To help prevent liquid loss, there are several steps you can take:</p><p>1. Make sure you correctly vent your pressure canner before you begin the processing countdown: Once you seal the canner's lid, wait for steam to come out of the vent, then set a timer for 10 minutes. After the 10 minutes have passed, place the weight on the canner and allow it to begin building pressure.</p><p>2. Let your processed jars cool down extra slowly: Once the processing countdown is done and you've turned the heat off, allow the canner to naturally reach zero pressure. Then let the canner sit for another 10 minutes, untouched. Next, remove the lid of the canner for only a few moments, then put it back on WITHOUT LOCKING IT. Let it sit like that for 5 minutes. Next, remove the lid completely and let the canner sit another 5 minutes. Finally, take the jars out and let them rest undisturbed on a heat-protected counter. </p><p><br /></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-65512991246487199252023-04-12T14:00:00.004-07:002024-01-21T10:32:00.560-08:00Top 13 Uses for Eggshells<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpBe6lAA1vJkiR6bgrP-kn0FlFpZ7OcnTpIsqUwYRNeIZXGE1wPA4GVN2NxVLZIzIocucI7eNrzy-QUd00bqlHOntPeqYoarJgJfcUj8EfhF7lw7Q7HItat5lRFQxPxefx3wHeNxAqRY1L4P4CFIQIHAMbwGeTW5jK8aAmGPMHN7SXQeYyHvfnmPp/s1500/Top-13-Uses-for-Eggshells.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Top 13 Uses for Eggshells" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcpBe6lAA1vJkiR6bgrP-kn0FlFpZ7OcnTpIsqUwYRNeIZXGE1wPA4GVN2NxVLZIzIocucI7eNrzy-QUd00bqlHOntPeqYoarJgJfcUj8EfhF7lw7Q7HItat5lRFQxPxefx3wHeNxAqRY1L4P4CFIQIHAMbwGeTW5jK8aAmGPMHN7SXQeYyHvfnmPp/w278-h418/Top-13-Uses-for-Eggshells.jpg" title="What to do with eggshells" width="278" /></a></div><i><i><i><i><i><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">This post contains
affiliate links. All opinions are my own. Please see FCC disclosure
for full information. Thank you for supporting this site!</span></i></i></i></i></i></i><p></p><p>To a lot of people, eggshells are trash. But to a homesteader, that "trash" is gold. There are <i>so </i>many ways to use eggshells - and many benefits in doing so. Here are the very best ideas I've run across. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">1. Feed Them to Your Chickens</span> </p><p>Hens (and other egg-laying poultry) require plenty of calcium to produce eggs with strong shells. Moreover, hens who are low in calcium often develop a serious health condition called <a href="https://the-chicken-chick.com/prolapse-vent-causes-treatment-graphic/" target="_blank">prolapsed vent</a> (where their vent - the hole that eggs come out of - literally pushes outside of their body). Often, chicken keepers purchase specially packaged, <a href="https://amzn.to/3KX7vpj" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">crushed oyster shells</a> or <a href="https://amzn.to/402VPWe" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">limestone</a> from feed stores, but eggshells from your own flocks work just as well. </p><p>(PLEASE NOTE: I don't recommend using the shells of store-bought chicken eggs for any food-related purposes; factory-farmed hens are often deficient in macro and micro-nutrients and store-bought eggs are washed in bleach or other antimicrobial liquid before they arrive on grocery store shelves.) </p><p>You may either immediately feed your hens the shells from eggs you've just cracked, or you may collect egg shells to feed to them later. If doing the latter, it's wise to air dry the shells, then sprinkle them onto a rimmed baking sheet; bake at about 350 degrees F. until the shells are brittle, approximately 10 - 15 minutes. This kills any harmful bacteria that may be present and makes the shells much easier to crush. (If using shells from hard-boiled eggs, you may skip putting the shells in the oven.) </p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWQVZ3dreo-P6J6z-FlstGUFPgKfdvzGBDOC8MDFwBMR8B312luG1YQi9XbhgVXZf-QfnK4MN99-grAqn1r_hWdhlWD25i4O00MgnELm9xp2VP3UsGyI174nksqr-iSWrlQfTW7wFkCDp1wIPIJTulhXHIsNSUnBM-OCWXCfafkWI0hQOLxAyM6OC/s799/Eggshells.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="799" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIWQVZ3dreo-P6J6z-FlstGUFPgKfdvzGBDOC8MDFwBMR8B312luG1YQi9XbhgVXZf-QfnK4MN99-grAqn1r_hWdhlWD25i4O00MgnELm9xp2VP3UsGyI174nksqr-iSWrlQfTW7wFkCDp1wIPIJTulhXHIsNSUnBM-OCWXCfafkWI0hQOLxAyM6OC/w460-h306/Eggshells.jpg" width="460" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Dried eggshells are perfect for birds. Courtesy of
</i><a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/26344495@N05/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1681331934578_2103" rel="author" title="Go to Ivan Radic’s photostream"><i>Ivan Radic</i>.</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p>When serving your hens eggshells, <i>always </i>crush them. This prevents hens from equating their just-laid eggs with food. (Because yes, chickens and other poultry will sometimes eat their own eggs.) Crushing can be done by hand (I favor putting the shells in a bag and running over them with a rolling pin), or you can run dried eggshells through a coffee grinder, blender, or food processor. (Just be aware that eggshells will scratch plastic food processor/grinder bowls.) </p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQFhFm6cOJjIgQbipdo77lnk2jKKj3js7ojt2bw_jqzNeqORH9Q43R4jAFODcx2EIkB5QVng8mIvqJKX9hdFyYBB1F_yWUS729bzmTC24VNKaz_Q4HG8ss3BahZakXxlRHDWVlDzXOhhPeOj8UbkxnGhdCUdKGbBJ664dplphdOcL2biQ4V9zI4TBf/s1600/Crushed%20eggshells.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQFhFm6cOJjIgQbipdo77lnk2jKKj3js7ojt2bw_jqzNeqORH9Q43R4jAFODcx2EIkB5QVng8mIvqJKX9hdFyYBB1F_yWUS729bzmTC24VNKaz_Q4HG8ss3BahZakXxlRHDWVlDzXOhhPeOj8UbkxnGhdCUdKGbBJ664dplphdOcL2biQ4V9zI4TBf/w421-h316/Crushed%20eggshells.jpg" width="421" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>It's easy to crush eggshells in a food processor.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> </p><p>It's considered best to offer the eggshells in a separate bowl from your chicken's feed, since this allows hens to self-regulate how much calcium they are eating. Too much calcium can lead to calcium deposits on the outside of eggshells...and eventually will damage a chicken's kidneys. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">2. Feed Them to Wild Birds </span></p><p>Just as eggshells provide a boost of nutrition for your chickens, they can do the same for wild birds. Follow the same steps outlined above, and simply mix the crushed shells into wild bird food. If you prefer, you may place the shells on a flat surface outside - such as an empty bird bath - but be aware that this method may attract other wild animals, some of them undesirable (like rodents). </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">3. Feed Them to Your Dogs</span></p><p>Most dogs adore eggs, shells and all. I offer our dogs small amounts of eggshells immediately after cracking and using eggs. If you want to amass shells for your dogs, follow the same guidelines as you would for chickens. If you powder the dried eggshells, you can add a bit of nutrient-rich powder to their food now and then. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyH3IG6i5cxLxfwEqtH1MFtPywcqLSEDuh7avJlFQqBmpTSlrnFPwfgsgmhds7_po4MvzcFva-totEF1KuMb2x2qgJQGx07emKgYGAs1mnClMIdaDcGiU8joOj56MbcIBc_l0uMTD_jsbY3RonpaLlZ3IzlOJSl3-XWzZjMzleRVuHKM63FOA3VQ08/s1600/eggshells%20for%20slugs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyH3IG6i5cxLxfwEqtH1MFtPywcqLSEDuh7avJlFQqBmpTSlrnFPwfgsgmhds7_po4MvzcFva-totEF1KuMb2x2qgJQGx07emKgYGAs1mnClMIdaDcGiU8joOj56MbcIBc_l0uMTD_jsbY3RonpaLlZ3IzlOJSl3-XWzZjMzleRVuHKM63FOA3VQ08/w413-h310/eggshells%20for%20slugs.jpg" width="413" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Eggshells can deter slugs, snails, and even cats.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">4. Use Them as a Deterrent </span></p><p>Crushed eggshells can keep slugs and snails from destroying your garden. Simply dry them out and crush into small pieces. (Don't powder them and don't leave large pieces behind; in this application, eggshells work because their sharp edges cut - or at least, irritate - slimy pests.) Do note that rain or heavy irrigation will shift the eggshells and perhaps cover some up with soil, making them a less effective deterrent. </p><p>Some people also find that the sharp edges of eggshells deter house cats. If, for example, you have a spot in your garden that cats use as a litter box, try putting eggshells in that location. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">5. Feed Your Tomatoes </span></p><p>One of the most common issues gardeners have with tomatoes is blossom end rot, which is often caused by the soil not having enough calcium or by the plant being unable to absorb calcium (because of inconsistent watering, for example. <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2020/08/how-to-treat-blossom-end-rot-its-not.html" target="_blank">Learn more about blossom end rot here</a>.). Therefore, it's always smart to add calcium to the holes you plant tomatoes in. </p><p>For best results, use powdered eggshells, which will release their nutrients more quickly than whole or crushed shells. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">6. Feed the Soil </span></p><p>Other plants love the nutrients in eggshells, too, so don't hesitate to add them to potting soil, or use them as a general organic amendment in the garden. Just remember that if you want those nutrients to quickly become available to your plants, you should powder the shells first. </p><p>Another way to use dried eggshells as a fertilizer is to soak them in a jar of water. Let the mixture sit for at least a week, and when the water is no longer clear, strain out the shells and use the water to irrigate your plants. </p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmS6b1JoFR_bJBpbNdGAKWmD2jSemWsFaTSs-mygtJTcHGaRijNInQ25niCyCN8F9qBMAspcPBv4S-WOSnkzD1jdLjYvSEd-5w5gCQSDCeanzEedvgIZza_tNA0IfM52ygA8nWwgblXWhVgumeOk8g401O3EbjhxwQRDMu8dUeqN4V1DM5MOc7-zC/s799/homemade%20compost.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="799" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmS6b1JoFR_bJBpbNdGAKWmD2jSemWsFaTSs-mygtJTcHGaRijNInQ25niCyCN8F9qBMAspcPBv4S-WOSnkzD1jdLjYvSEd-5w5gCQSDCeanzEedvgIZza_tNA0IfM52ygA8nWwgblXWhVgumeOk8g401O3EbjhxwQRDMu8dUeqN4V1DM5MOc7-zC/w446-h297/homemade%20compost.jpg" width="446" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Eggshells are an excellent addition to the compost pin. Courtesy of
<a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/lindsaydeebunny/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1681332079216_1898" rel="author" title="Go to Lindsay’s photostream">Lindsay</a>.</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table> </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">7. Compost Them </span></p><p>Similarly, eggshells make an excellent addition to compost. I usually put them in without crushing them first, but this does mean they take a long time to break down. I often have "finished" compost with still-visible eggshells in it. There's nothing wrong with that, but if you prefer, you may finely crush or powder the eggshells so they decompose faster. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">8. Add to Kefir </span></p><p>Eggshells can be used to feed your water kefir grains and add nutrients to your finished product. Just make sure your eggs are well washed - inside and out - before you begin. Use up to one whole shell for a half-gallon of water kefir. Once the first fermentation is completed, the eggshell will be broken down and may even be completely disintegrated. </p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlwPqfWuAI1bvIEngab3TZMB61zBrERldQDO3Kj6jGpdt-0kyA2w5KptnEZdgdiXmMqMOBFP5L_ZDm68Kb_nSwQpJewYPVH-awZ47ctWQzRQxyXu7F-X2_nQ_FNlTdF2InKmo-vJS2EH0hC-0gpF76da0m7522REmaiMI6WAchaXERSZ4TY8Koqt_/s799/campfire%20coffee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="799" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlwPqfWuAI1bvIEngab3TZMB61zBrERldQDO3Kj6jGpdt-0kyA2w5KptnEZdgdiXmMqMOBFP5L_ZDm68Kb_nSwQpJewYPVH-awZ47ctWQzRQxyXu7F-X2_nQ_FNlTdF2InKmo-vJS2EH0hC-0gpF76da0m7522REmaiMI6WAchaXERSZ4TY8Koqt_/w456-h303/campfire%20coffee.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Coffee can benefit from eggshells. Courtesy of
<a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/rengber/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1681332409134_1986" rel="author" title="Go to Robert Engberg’s photostream">Robert Engberg</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">9. Add to Coffee </span></p><p>Old-timers used eggshells when making campfire coffee. They crushed the shells and put them directly in the coffee pot to keep the coffee grounds at the bottom, where they wouldn't end up in anyone's cup. If you want to try this at home, make sure you're either boiling your coffee well or using oven-dried shells, to prevent unwanted bacteria that could make you sick. </p><p>Another way eggshells are used when making coffee is to mellow out a brew and make it less acidic. For example, if you over-brew your coffee, add crushed eggshell, then strain; the flavor of the coffee will be improved. As a guideline, use a single eggshell for every 4-cup pot. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">10. Add to Broth or Stock </span></p><p>Some people swear by adding eggshells to their homemade stock or broth - which makes some sense, when you think about it. After all, seafood shells are frequently used to make fish stock. Certainly, shells add some great micro-nutrients to the liquid, including calcium, magnesium, selenium, zinc, and phosphorus. Just add the shells to the pot when you add bones and vegetables, then strain them out when the mixture is done simmering. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">11. Clean Cast Iron or Stainless Steel </span></p><p>If you cook with cast iron, you've likely heard of using salt to scrub out stubborn food from your pans. But did you know you can use eggshells for the same purpose? Crush the shells a bit first. They will break down as you rub, but then can be rinsed away easily. This trick works well for stainless sinks, too. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">12. Make Chalk </span></p><p>Have your kids help you make fun sidewalk chalk by drying some eggshells and then finely grinding them. Stir together 3 tablespoons of ground eggshells with 1 tablespoon of warm or hot water, 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, and, if desired, a bit of food coloring. Pour this mixture into an empty toilet paper tube placed on a rimmed baking sheet - or simply shape the dough-like mixture into the shape you desire. Allow it to fully dry, then remove the tube and have fun with your homemade chalk! </p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4J9J-sEutUQFgyFoJuzUjg2bawj1zlnF-J2Zms-3YGlIr0rXq7D0kSt7gYQOlWvFQ4uJ-xbW7dC6Xbbn_utB4spVvzIcIGkBiryo7QwsDLHnPhtr4SAvFYU5O6p7ggCxjDJnnaP9glGFcME9Q1R_6vykKSIbjXnWg1d7MKfjJJ3nN_ewlvgceZK4f/s1600/eggshell%20toothpowder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4J9J-sEutUQFgyFoJuzUjg2bawj1zlnF-J2Zms-3YGlIr0rXq7D0kSt7gYQOlWvFQ4uJ-xbW7dC6Xbbn_utB4spVvzIcIGkBiryo7QwsDLHnPhtr4SAvFYU5O6p7ggCxjDJnnaP9glGFcME9Q1R_6vykKSIbjXnWg1d7MKfjJJ3nN_ewlvgceZK4f/w405-h304/eggshell%20toothpowder.jpg" width="405" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Finely crushed eggshells are an old-timey tooth powder. Courtesy of <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Bergsten" title="User:Bergsten">Jonas Bergsten</a>. </i></td></tr></tbody></table><i><br /></i></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">13. Make Tooth Powder </span></p><p>Many years ago, eggshells were used to clean teeth. According to some modern natural health gurus, brushing with eggshells can even improve tooth enamel. Use oven-dried eggshells (or the shells from hardboiled eggs) and grind them into a powder first. Some people like to add the ground shells to coconut oil to make brushing easier. Personally, I would consult my dentist before trying this old-timey trick.<br /></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-57029957617814037092023-04-04T12:24:00.005-07:002023-04-05T10:22:57.316-07:00Foraging Morel Mushrooms (Identifying, Cleaning, Storing, Preserving, and Cooking)<p style="text-align: left;"><b><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><b><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><b><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i></i></span></b></b></b></span></i></span></b></b></i></span></b></b></p><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><b><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcB8gnXIIZKsKtyq-Zz48uTjd8jXve5aD40k_ixS2YYF3oLJ435cPGICpxPI0FfgTyKHgsxvfLvh0iPGeVuDEI3BenDY0sP8cfo5xqFsDoTjfqFM-LSp1PR5dw18ewbRiayhDoIvIPJ1e89zy7aWkf64rOOvJ1833sIRWqfcfUF-Wr78cRvy7-Qe_/s1500/How-To-Forage-Morel-Mushrooms.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Foraging Morel Mushrooms" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="481" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcB8gnXIIZKsKtyq-Zz48uTjd8jXve5aD40k_ixS2YYF3oLJ435cPGICpxPI0FfgTyKHgsxvfLvh0iPGeVuDEI3BenDY0sP8cfo5xqFsDoTjfqFM-LSp1PR5dw18ewbRiayhDoIvIPJ1e89zy7aWkf64rOOvJ1833sIRWqfcfUF-Wr78cRvy7-Qe_/w320-h481/How-To-Forage-Morel-Mushrooms.jpg" title="How to Forage, Clean, Store, Preserve, and Cook Morel Mushrooms" width="320" /></a><b><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><b><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><b><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>This post contains affiliate links. All opinions are my own. Please see<a href="http://proverbsthirtyonewoman.blogspot.com/p/fcc-disclosure.html#.Vxe1-now6MI" target="_blank"> FCC disclosure</a> for full information. Thank you for supporting this site!</i></span></b></b> </b></span></i></span></b></b></i></span></b></b></i></span></b></b></b></span></i></span></i></div><p></p><p>I didn't grow up eating mushrooms - especially not wild ones. But I do love foraging wild food...and I can't help but get excited about mushrooms; they are fascinating - and so yummy. (A gazillion times better than store bought mushrooms!) Sadly, I haven't had a lot of time for foraging lately, but sometimes God sends you gifts you can't ignore. This weekend was one such time.</p><p>A few weeks ago, I was helping my husband extend the deer fence in our vegetable garden and I noticed a <i>huge </i>mushroom growing near some cabbages. I pointed it out to him and he replied, "Don't touch it! I think those are dangerous!" (He says this about <i>all </i>wild mushrooms and always questions me repeatedly when I feed him any new wild plant. "Are you <i>sure </i>this isn't going to kill me???"). I shrugged it off and went about the business of homesteading. But last weekend, as I was pulling the remaining winter turnips out of the garden, I noticed a cluster of mushrooms growing in one bed. I took some photos because I thought they were interesting.</p><p>Not long after, I posted these photos in a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/156706504394635" target="_blank">plant identification Facebook group</a>. The immediate answers were exciting: "You hit gold!" and "I'm jealous!" were frequent comments. The mushrooms were morels (<i>Morchella esculenta</i>), one of the most sought after and expensive wild mushrooms around. And I found them through dumb luck...</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Where to Find Morel Mushrooms<br /></span></p><p>Or maybe not. Because it turns out there's a thing called "Landscape Morels." This is a commentary on where these mushrooms are often found: In gardens where bark mulch has been laid down. My hunch is that last year, <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2022/03/creating-new-vegetable-garden-step-by.html" target="_blank">when I purchased and hauled in my garden soil</a>, which is rich in native forest bark mulch, some morel spores and mycelium came along with it. So if <i>you </i>laid down wood chips anywhere in your yard last year, it doesn't hurt to check it this spring for any morels that might pop up!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vhnoVo-MAK2kt4ulFMNmBD9yCwCWXmg9vRiOEoBEf7pei9ZLZOa8Aw9KAO9OMPSyzR_6cBjWdvI6rkZ_aKIcRRk3nKzZllPd0J79tF0DJ4sMflpS1V6uZ6ILn-RWkGub6B6FGd1U16tHznQ3Qw_QcgSmLfd8PatPElfKId7aTiPZPcXIxDN3DrJt/s4000/morel-mushroom.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="475" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1vhnoVo-MAK2kt4ulFMNmBD9yCwCWXmg9vRiOEoBEf7pei9ZLZOa8Aw9KAO9OMPSyzR_6cBjWdvI6rkZ_aKIcRRk3nKzZllPd0J79tF0DJ4sMflpS1V6uZ6ILn-RWkGub6B6FGd1U16tHznQ3Qw_QcgSmLfd8PatPElfKId7aTiPZPcXIxDN3DrJt/w267-h475/morel-mushroom.jpg" width="267" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqNXD_OWDrtTvRVGAUnHaROLsAFy_38EiOfL9hyxPGlbbJWS8j_PkigByjODEWbezg5Lb0sb2c2sUcdg9EU7Md2OWRx50yhtq5xW205uKiThcqrwY7pMLLcCv19_Rd69lVok9gEhPXzlbUpX02TgrJXZF8zG4LwEyncI8rsBPxfxrDOy3dBde7UJt/s4000/landscape%20morels.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqNXD_OWDrtTvRVGAUnHaROLsAFy_38EiOfL9hyxPGlbbJWS8j_PkigByjODEWbezg5Lb0sb2c2sUcdg9EU7Md2OWRx50yhtq5xW205uKiThcqrwY7pMLLcCv19_Rd69lVok9gEhPXzlbUpX02TgrJXZF8zG4LwEyncI8rsBPxfxrDOy3dBde7UJt/w281-h498/landscape%20morels.jpg" width="281" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My landscape morels.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>Now, assuming you can't find landscape morels, you may be able to find morels in an old apple orchard - or in the woods, especially near ash, oak, elm, tulip poplar, maple, pine, sycamore, and hickory trees, as well as around any wild or feral fruit trees. Start looking for them in the early spring; they grow anytime between February to June, depending on where your climate. Early in the season, southward and westward slopes are the best places to look. Later in the season, all slopes are worth checking. </p><p>Morels don't like soggy soil that retains water, although they do like to grow along creeks and riverbeds. Morels may be more likely to grow around dead or dying trees - especially those with bark is falling off. (Do note, however, that they don't grow <i>on </i>trees; morels only grow in the ground.) They are also likely to grow in fields of wildflowers, or along the edge of a meadow in the woods. Finally, locations where there was a forest fire, a controlled burn, or a logging operation can be spots to look for morels, especially if a year or two has since passed. This, experts say, is especially true in conifer forests.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia5i6USEoKDf0W1nslsB-aYrWlMzwZ4_H44n6KW6a1gJJH4TnWFARknwYexkQ27u8Q8gFy6vQdrp9v6kSGBp73w53zIZaA30UoIwqlJzUIO-3CRnsir5qCLpso--l_vB-sIUc-xQDCAuhuxsconSjgCrZBtcGng2OVjM5AoGH_ENJZxuiv69pT-H4B/s1200/identifying-morels.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="401" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia5i6USEoKDf0W1nslsB-aYrWlMzwZ4_H44n6KW6a1gJJH4TnWFARknwYexkQ27u8Q8gFy6vQdrp9v6kSGBp73w53zIZaA30UoIwqlJzUIO-3CRnsir5qCLpso--l_vB-sIUc-xQDCAuhuxsconSjgCrZBtcGng2OVjM5AoGH_ENJZxuiv69pT-H4B/w267-h401/identifying-morels.jpg" width="267" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Morels vary in color from tan to dark brown. Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and Amada44. </i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Morels need just the right conditions to grow, experts say. Not only do they need just the right amount of moisture, but they grow best when soil temperatures are around 50 degrees F. and air temperatures are between 50 and 60 degrees F. These weren't the temperatures we were experiencing when I found my morels - but it's still a good basic guideline.</p><p>The experts also say that morels grow between 400 and 5,000 feet in elevation, but that you're most likely to find a good number of them at 400 to 6000 feet above sea level.</p><p>One final tip: If you find one morel, slow down and look carefully around you. Almost certainly, there are more nearby.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRZlPjh4yeG2YLpOi5aQhvnWvpI-nVqxlUj42ljZFmbR6sTShPWx0EiIG7Vd-KUnFnmr1RnQV8QaSdtOMVabKomkxutOwXtfyORuII3doZpBM8HQs50bkKzbBiR2VHpfaF2PZcTiJvlNTuCssreu48sHdlMm-ItMBlX_iRHUjB7DfXhEn9kAPHwx1C/s2331/large%20morel%20mushroom.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2331" data-original-width="2252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRZlPjh4yeG2YLpOi5aQhvnWvpI-nVqxlUj42ljZFmbR6sTShPWx0EiIG7Vd-KUnFnmr1RnQV8QaSdtOMVabKomkxutOwXtfyORuII3doZpBM8HQs50bkKzbBiR2VHpfaF2PZcTiJvlNTuCssreu48sHdlMm-ItMBlX_iRHUjB7DfXhEn9kAPHwx1C/s320/large%20morel%20mushroom.jpg" width="309" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The largest morel I harvested weighed 4.16 oz., but there were bigger ones I left behind.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Identifying Morel Mushrooms</span><br /></p><p>Here's the number one thing to know about morels: Yes, there are look-alikes that can make you very, very ill (some even say they can kill you). <i>However</i>, there is one super easy way to distinguish these fungi from a morel: Cut the mushroom in half, lengthwise. <b><u><i>A true morel is completely hollow, from cap to stem</i>.</u></b> The dangerous look-alikes are not fully hollow. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrg_ZPco31Pnx4wRgY3sqnNZbkd_hH6cdBMtnHkB6ZRAFbgtEuk6qW_yvpAecr283mzDZkDYHTFlqyANdMNFLZcQRX6qVL0wG2XMUgPvGfSElqfeS4x8b3m4BbnrsR2c0EMy7SCx27bWwIvLqU3B_NBckfKlyNh2ms8kJlf2wocKbq6sx7X36NkZBe/s1200/Morel-mushroom-half.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1078" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrg_ZPco31Pnx4wRgY3sqnNZbkd_hH6cdBMtnHkB6ZRAFbgtEuk6qW_yvpAecr283mzDZkDYHTFlqyANdMNFLZcQRX6qVL0wG2XMUgPvGfSElqfeS4x8b3m4BbnrsR2c0EMy7SCx27bWwIvLqU3B_NBckfKlyNh2ms8kJlf2wocKbq6sx7X36NkZBe/s320/Morel-mushroom-half.jpg" width="287" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Morels are completely hollow inside. Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and Amada44.</i></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>That said, it's important to add: <b>Never eat any wild plant you are not 100% certain you've identified correctly. </b></p><p>Before you cut into a potential morel to check for that hollow center, however, take a good look at it's cap - that's the weird, brain-looking part on top. It should be pitted inwards. With most types of morels, the entire cap is attached to the stem, not hanging free. (There is a "half-free morel," where the cap is only partially attached to the stem; these, experts say, are harder to identify and are outside the scope of this article.) Also, with most types of morels, the cap is noticeably longer than the stem.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi91ehYpUk-_6j0OyLBUVJfZFPfsM9XhEJE-OBlAy8vDr66V5DUhALHHxIU0UtpcH9amM28M2Ji9e4wpkHQpLBX9KttRyWr5CP2R4dWQMKscFXcxGB-uWdu3A3rwfDrW5XnDkHLX6BxxAbkvvqLHk6AyqN-ZoyqXRBN6NloVVTIsoKB5kBPKxKyVs5S/s1599/Close%20Up%20of%20Morel%20Cap.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1599" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi91ehYpUk-_6j0OyLBUVJfZFPfsM9XhEJE-OBlAy8vDr66V5DUhALHHxIU0UtpcH9amM28M2Ji9e4wpkHQpLBX9KttRyWr5CP2R4dWQMKscFXcxGB-uWdu3A3rwfDrW5XnDkHLX6BxxAbkvvqLHk6AyqN-ZoyqXRBN6NloVVTIsoKB5kBPKxKyVs5S/w388-h258/Close%20Up%20of%20Morel%20Cap.jpg" width="388" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Close up of a morel cap. Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and
<a class="external text" href="https://www.flickr.com/people/40948266@N04" rel="nofollow">Björn S</a>.</i></td></tr></tbody></table><i><br /></i><p></p><p></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">What About False Morels?</span></p><p>Whenever we talk about mushrooms, it's a good idea to discuss the dangers of misidentification. To prevent this problem, first cut the mushroom in half lengthwise. False morels may have air pockets where they are partially hollow inside the stem or cap, but a true morel is <i>completely </i>hollow.</p><p>From my research, only two look-alikes can be hollow: The half-morel<i> (</i><i>Morchella punctipes</i>) and the Wrinkled Thimble Cap (<i>Verpa bohemica</i>). As stated above, half morels' caps are only partially attached to the stem. They are edible, but commonly thought inferior in flavor to true morels. True to their name, Wrinkled Thimble Caps have much smaller caps than true morels. They are edible, but only after long cooking. For photos and more information on these look-alikes, head over to <a href="https://wildfoodism.com/2015/04/02/how-to-find-and-identify-morel-mushrooms/" target="_blank">this Wild Foodism's post</a>.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting Morel Mushrooms</span><br /></p><p>There's a lot of controversy in the mushrooming world about the best way to harvest morels (and mushrooms in general), but most experts say cutting the mushroom off at soil level is best. This helps prevent disruption in the soil, which is not only beneficial to soil health, but helps mushrooms survive year after year. It also tends to help keep the mushrooms cleaner.</p><p>Two other rules to live by are to never take more than you can actually use - and <b><u><i>always leave some behind.</i></u></b> In the case of morels, the fungi spreads both through mycelium (a mass of branched, tubular filaments, akin to roots) and through spores (reproductive cells, akin to seeds). Leaving a healthy number of mushrooms behind means the fungi can reproduce and continue as a healthy source of wild food for you and others.</p><p>Although some people like to spread mushroom spores around, thinking this will help the fungi thrive, with morels, most experts say it's probably better to let nature do it's own thing. Morels have to be fully mature and at a certain level of dehydration before their spores will release and be fruitful.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sE8P0Clkfxq9dsHdWvrqe6_eODh1ekJ4OrjTJTYKeq1HYkZyNn4m25IDzzXq2y_c-pmsfTI87cUjWu1C2xWRmR3wrvBOx-R28BK7sDChJcacSZpVsVoy95eGo0KzEQ1KBSpldSsYaxNCg55kIWM6YKh4SI9cUe3l7v4RnPoaE7hNobRAFmUh4TAX/s4000/morel%20mushroom%20foraging.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sE8P0Clkfxq9dsHdWvrqe6_eODh1ekJ4OrjTJTYKeq1HYkZyNn4m25IDzzXq2y_c-pmsfTI87cUjWu1C2xWRmR3wrvBOx-R28BK7sDChJcacSZpVsVoy95eGo0KzEQ1KBSpldSsYaxNCg55kIWM6YKh4SI9cUe3l7v4RnPoaE7hNobRAFmUh4TAX/w278-h494/morel%20mushroom%20foraging.jpg" width="278" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My morel mushroom harvest.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></p><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Cleaning Morel Mushrooms</span><br /></p><p></p><p>Mushrooms tend to get dirty because...well, they grow so low to the ground. You can help ensure cleaner mushrooms by using care as you harvest them. Wipe your harvesting knife off after each harvest, and use an artist's brush or your own clean fingers to whisk off as much soil as possible before putting the mushroom in your harvesting bag or other container.</p><p>That said, most experts seem to agree it's a good idea to rinse off your morels. I cut mine in half vertically and rinsed them under cool, running water on both the outside and the inside (where bugs may linger). Only after I did this did I read that some foragers like to capture the rinse water in a container and then spread that water around an area where morels might thrive. The idea is that any spores that end up in the water might produce a new crop. Next time, I'll definitely do this.<br /></p><p>As I rinsed the morels, I placed them in <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=salad+spinner&ref=nb_sb_noss" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">a salad spinner</a> and spun them until they looked dry. Then I placed them inside a vegetable storage container, which is vented and designed to keep produce fresh longer. (My containers are older and I can't find them anywhere online, but <a href="https://amzn.to/3zs6mPJ" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">these produce containers </a> are the same idea.) Do <i>not </i>use an air tight container. If you don't have a produce storage container, place the morels in a paper bag and roll down the top. Store in the refrigerator.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ETnia-COhyPeC717JI7MzbMlTDzaS4L9U7FHNikEre_o66VU1v8blSDohTtbfkz1vQyx0rXOIql9Ty4UR6zANHsHihPZKFjrAUjdIhvHCuQqlL5dM0m1D54oGri7ku5MM7t2cJba2AbpT_2epVseEP_BNLD9NubYxd4KyatQ8Oz0Katu-9fCpkE3/s3746/storing%20morel%20mushrooms.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3746" data-original-width="2252" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ETnia-COhyPeC717JI7MzbMlTDzaS4L9U7FHNikEre_o66VU1v8blSDohTtbfkz1vQyx0rXOIql9Ty4UR6zANHsHihPZKFjrAUjdIhvHCuQqlL5dM0m1D54oGri7ku5MM7t2cJba2AbpT_2epVseEP_BNLD9NubYxd4KyatQ8Oz0Katu-9fCpkE3/w245-h408/storing%20morel%20mushrooms.jpg" width="245" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cleaned morels in a produce storage container last up to a week in the fridge.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p>Mushrooms taste best when they are fresh, so I recommend eating at least some the same day you harvest them. Kept in a produce container, they last up to a week in the refrigerator. If you have more morels than you can eat in that time, consider sharing your harvest, or try your hand at preserving them.<br /></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Preserving Morel Mushrooms</span></p><p>Freeze drying or dehydrating are the two most common ways to preserve morels. To freeze dry them, place clean, halved raw morels (or if you prefer, sliced or chopped mushrooms) on the tray of a home freeze dryer. Pop them in the machine and let it do it's thing. When the machine says the mushrooms are done, pull them out and check them carefully for any cold spots. If there are cold areas, put them back in the machine and freeze dry them a bit longer. Store freeze dried morels in Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers, or (for shorter term storage) in vacuum sealed canning jars containing an oxygen absorber. In Mylar bags, mushrooms will remain shelf stable for at least 20 years (For more information on home freeze drying, see "<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/05/freeze-dried-vs-dehydrated-food-whats.html" target="_blank">Freeze Dried vs. Dehydrated Food: What's the Difference?</a>")</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8Bo3v-URrzto_0YwMoO8herfSRMHH89_stBwkYa7HlOzR86ApgmxGcJg69-UWRbLp1vnLYpat67n5eEkH-X5xHV-C9BimSOy03CibMscsbJPQ52Wv7qVPLWQ5TbIh3_pLxxLVhM_JcP46RWWBflAfmPld0RCyBeYHGUabdDmbZ526rknGXZVq5JN/s4000/freeze%20dried%20morel%20mushrooms.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="2252" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8Bo3v-URrzto_0YwMoO8herfSRMHH89_stBwkYa7HlOzR86ApgmxGcJg69-UWRbLp1vnLYpat67n5eEkH-X5xHV-C9BimSOy03CibMscsbJPQ52Wv7qVPLWQ5TbIh3_pLxxLVhM_JcP46RWWBflAfmPld0RCyBeYHGUabdDmbZ526rknGXZVq5JN/w245-h436/freeze%20dried%20morel%20mushrooms.jpg" width="245" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Home freeze dried morels.</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script></p><p>To dehydrate morels, place cleaned, halved (or sliced) raw mushrooms on the tray of an electric dehydrator, making sure the mushrooms aren't touching. Dehydrate at 110 degrees F. until the mushrooms appear completely dry. To check for doneness, break off a thicker piece of mushroom; no moisture should appear at the break. (<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/08/how-to-dehydrate-just-about-any-food.html" target="_blank">For a complete guide to using an electric dehydrator, click here</a>.) </p><p>If you live in a dry climate, you can try air drying morels. Thread a sewing needle with buttonhole or quilting thread, then run the needle through the stems of halved morel mushrooms, creating a sort of necklace. If you place a knot on each side of every mushroom half, it will help keep the morels from touching each other, which will speed their drying and help prevent rotting or molding. Hang the "necklace" up in a dry location out of direct sunlight. Use the same doneness check as for electric dehydrating.</p><p>To store dehydrated morels, place them in a glass jar with an air-tight
metal lid. Store in a cool, dry, dark location for up to a year.</p><p>I do not recommend oven drying mushrooms; the results will be inferior because an oven is really too hot for the job. If you have an oven warming drawer, you could try using that;<a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2010/09/making-dried-apple-rings-in-warming.html" target="_blank"> see general directions here.</a><br /></p><p>To rehydrate dehydrated or freeze dried morels, pour the desired amount in a bowl and pour room temperature water over them. Allow to sit until the mushrooms are fully rehydrated.</p><p>It's also possible to freeze morels. However, if you freeze raw morels, their flavor will dissipate, so first, either boil them or saute them for 5 minutes. Pat boiled mushrooms dry before packaging. Place the prepared mushrooms inside freezer bags, squeezing out as much air as possible, and use within 6 months. </p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Cooking Morel Mushrooms</span><br /></p><p>Morels have a wonderful, classic mushroom flavor, so they are ideal for a wide variety of dishes, including risotto, quiches, salads, burgers, grits, fried whole or halved, as part of savory sauces, etc. </p><p><i><u><b><span style="font-size: medium;">It is important to note that morels should ALWAYS be cooked before eating them. </span></b></u></i>Consuming them raw causes gastrointestinal distress, diarrhea, and vomiting.<br /></p><p>If you've never eaten morels before, it's a good idea to begin with just a small amount. (This is good advice for any new-to-you food.) I recommend sauteing a small amount in butter, then adding a bit of sea salt and pepper. This has the added bonus of letting you experience the special flavor morels have, which will make it easier for you to use them in recipes. </p><p>Once we each tried our sauteed morels, I served the remainder of my harvest on pizza and in an egg hash. I plan to use the morels I preserved in stroganoff and <a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/04/the-best-salsbury-steak-recipe-keto-low.html" target="_blank">Salisbury steak</a>.</p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Related Articles:</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2016/06/how-to-forage-clean-eat-lobster.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="384" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq2E5oC4xgWbipsk6NXXEYNrdtIk2HpfmwRN2_zUkxWEcnTf98Lo_FnglFh1O0IVhhQGEq4L5-0xES_yBnpMBjQuyAhalwN1FPGvUZk4XP9VJKKIO0h77JXB3eFJsPS1LrwW9K4WJgov5JM4s7eb5XQsgmiaxrc9C58wVb-y3DzUnuZIquWj3Ribno/w246-h409/How-to-Forage-for-Lobster-Mushrooms.jpg" width="246" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2018/03/foraging-horsetail-for-food-medicine.html" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="349" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaaXwdQ_j5CXZhfeY5EPt3pxcqsfB5z00rCMo9DRMqkNot9NxJvErD9mi6UczTrMpb4GgpkVJ93n9MtSke9PDTXJX4i6sNbibCjCeT6FDTQVrqvtD8_dhkpzS0C7LWarU1QD2_IDZwl99BzumJ88hsD9_TS2N0hb5oWG5hswGXe76Utxru0A6NZE5/w219-h400/Foraging-Horsetail-for-Food-and-Medicine.jpg" width="219" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/2017/02/foraging-for-chickweed.html#.ZCtGYNfMKFY" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgisnzM_07WPa-GNyjXoqTaOFTODaQ_6NDEnUbuWCZkiF4eb0p4qq45MCETR9K2fQiBTr5BJtC9UaRZ1iAvUpLqlmyUy1Q-FNe6HHosy-Z7oPTIRgsQ2CJtWKzDfgju_ymxoPHORVFunJU5vt42K5vi24UDhzfNsN6Ni14wAD_Lsy7IYnfjM6_zvTw5/s320/Foraging-for-Chickweed-One-of-Natures-Superfoods.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><p><b> </b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.proverbs31homestead.com/search/label/Foraging" target="_blank"><b>SEE ALL FORAGING ARTICLES</b></a></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">* Cover image courtesy of </span>
<a class="owner-name truncate no-outline" data-track="attributionNameClick" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/erinscissorhands/" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1680633217706_1455" rel="author" title="Go to erin’s photostream">erin</a>.<span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b></span></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><script async="" crossorigin="anonymous" src="https://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js?client=ca-pub-6951681679104154"></script>
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</script>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-265772262233409826.post-32970331079972083802023-03-26T13:16:00.002-07:002023-03-26T13:17:29.363-07:00Why Don't We ALL Can Like the Amish? (Video)<p>One of the most frequent comments I get on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZVxij_8QD-ftKABZwwV0qA" target="_blank">my YouTube channel</a> goes something like: "The Amish water bath can everything. Why shouldn't we?" In this video, I explore whether Amish canning is anything like what we think it is, using quotes from former "plain" people, as well as historical books. Check it out!</p><p><br /></p><p>
<style>.embedtool {position: relative;height: 0;padding-top: 56%;overflow: hidden;max-width: 100%;} .embedtool iframe, .embedtool object, .embedtool embed { position: absolute; top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; } .embedtool .fluid-vids {position: initial !important}</style></p><div class="embedtool"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GJPvJAoL-UU"></iframe></div><p></p>Proverbs Thirty One Womanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00061731679235511146noreply@blogger.com0